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JagdStealth

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Everything posted by JagdStealth

  1. I might upgrade to that as the previous owner put some H4 housings in, but there are no relays or anything in place. Thanks for the tips!
  2. It ended up being the ground wire from the dimmer switch to headlight switch, it was connected and tested continuity fine, but the connection wasn't strong enough for the headlights. When I ran an independent ground wire from the dimmer switch to the chassis they came on. I put on new connectors on the original wire and the headlights work finally.
  3. Oops! It's a '72 with factory wiring (from what I can tell) for all of the lighting, switches, etc. except for the conversion to MSA blade style fuse box. I do have a service manual and have looked through the diagrams and tested to my ability the switches which appear to be functioning properly at the switch level. The fact I had power to the ground (black) wire on the headlight plug is what was confusing to me and I hadn't seen anyone else in a search with similar issue. I'm reduced to guessing, and not having a thorough understanding lead me to the question. I manually traced all the wires involved with the headlight circuit behind the dash, but outside of that it's all in the original loom. I'd rather not tear that apart if someone had something else I should look at per the symptoms. Both switches were rebuilt and working previously, The "loose" wires I have don't appear to be in the diagram from what I can tell (except for the blue/white) and that's part of where I'm at a loss (if they are indeed even necessary or part of my issue). Unfortunately they were not labelled when the dash was removed by someone else and left in my lap...but that's another issue altogether...
  4. I had the whole interior taken out when having the car painted. Prior to, headlights and everything worked fine. I've since put the dash back in and got the car running and everything works fine except for the headlights and turn signals. Both the combo switch and dimmer switch are rebuilt and seem to be working fine. I do have a couple of individual wires with no home in the steering column that I can't identify on the wiring harness and have no power or continuity to ground (seen in the pic below). 1. Tested 12V at both HL fuses (upgraded MSA blade fuse panel) when switched on 2. Tested dimmer switch and see ground being applied to different wires when high beams are switched on/off 3. I have 12V to the headlight plug black wire (shouldn't this be ground?) I also have ground continuity check fine at the headlight plug on the red/black wire 4. When I plug the physical headlight into the plug, the 12V black wire becomes <1V and stays as such until I cycle the combo switch 5. Front turn signals do light up and have power, but do not flash and the hazard switch does not work...not sure if they are related and I haven't tested the blinker. Both headlights are H4 housings which use all the stock wiring, upgraded by previous owner, if that makes any difference. Is there a grounding issue somewhere? Car starts and runs fine, all other lights, including brake lights, are fine. Wires with no home 1. Red wire out of the harness with aftermarket female connector 2. black wire out of the harness with aftermarket male connector 3. black/yellow wire out of harness with female connector 4. blue/white wire out of steering column with male connector
  5. Wow, what a great looking install! This is very clean and professional looking and seems to fit really well inside the car.
  6. I'm fixed so no worries about the family lol I'll keep the thread updated as I go, just ordering a half dozen gauges tonight to finish out a whole new interior I've got coming together. I'll get some updated pictures once I finish that up...
  7. Might as well just update this thread. New walbro 255 pump tossed on there and re-did the fuel line is redone. Had McKinney weld up their coil-over setup too. Rides much better, typical bouncey suspension, but feels pretty good. With the new pump the car idles much better and now pulls smoothly in every gear, knock counts on the powerFC are much reduced as well. ...now to rebuild the steering, swap the rear brakes, and replace any worn bushings.
  8. Sorry, I don't visit the forums often! I'll get the wheel size and offset as soon as I get the car back from the shop. I assume 16x7, the tires rub a bit up front and hit the fender lip in the back over bumps while driving, but otherwise okay. I drive the car regularly, only issue so far has been a sticking wastegate. Right now I'm having the strut towers cut out and welded up for a coilover setup. When it comes back, I have to sort out a vibration issue I think is related to an out of balance driveshaft and then little stuff like rebuild the steering rack.
  9. Along the bottom edge on one and top edge on the other (same place since the panels were put in opposite each other).
  10. Got mine in the mail the other day. They look great, quality is nice and will be awesome when installed. There was a small 1/2" nick from being thrown around by USPS, but nothing I can't fix with a little tape when I cover them with vinyl. Very happy with them!!
  11. Possible to still get in on this right now for a set?
  12. Already put a weekend worth of elbow grease with some rubbing and polishing compound and the old paint polishes out like new. I'll take care of the rust later on once the rest of the car is done. Not a big fuel cell fan for something that will see more street than track use, so I'm probably going to keep the same idea and weld up a surge tank like I had in an old L28ET setup. Already ordered a bunch of interior bits and carpet kit to clean up the interior. I've got some sound deadening liquid to put down and get the interior all cleaned up and working/looking better than new. A pair of Recaros and probably have a 4pt cage welded in to round it out. Working on what I'm sure will be a very long list of things I'll eventually do to the car, but it seems to run good for now! Needs more rubber on it, 225s don't do this car justice...
  13. What size are you guys buying for the tach and speedo? They don't seem to offer bigger than 4" in the speedo, but I thought the Z used 5"?
  14. Ideally I'm looking for an L28ET powered 240, but open to anything that's in decent shape and not stock. I don't want rusty projects and I want something that is currently running and driveable. Cash in hand, lemme know what you have. Located in Southern California...I don't have a problem with shipping a car, but it has to be the RIGHT car for something like this...
  15. If you like that...you'd love an L28ET without much of a muffler on it (something ilke a cherrybomb or similar straight through glasspack). I wish I had some video of how mine sounded.
  16. I had the Borla exhaust on my Z06 I also had a 240Z with an L28ET in it with just a glasspack tube muffler on the back...it was very loud and sounded very bad ass...just as good as the Borla LS2, but in a different way. I really enjoyed my L28ET...but I'd take an LS1 powered Z over the L28 if it was for a budget track car. It's going to be more efficient, make more power, and it's simply newer stuff, it's going to work better. The only reason I'd want an L28ET Z is because it's a Nissan motor in a Nissan car.
  17. Gas mileage in a V8 Z? As good or BETTER than any L6 turbo motor, WAY better than an L6 turbo making 400+HP I had a 2002 Corvette Z06...which comes with an LS2. It weighs about 500lbs more than your average 240Z and I averaged almost 30MPG on the highway and 18 around town. My car was mildly modded (exhaust, intake, and modified ECU) and it pulled all the way to 7000RPM with well over 400HP (Dyno at 398). The LS1 has a bit less power stock, but it's going to get the same gas mileage. The biggest problem you'd have is being able to go full throttle in the thing...I could light up the tires on command, and I was running 305 series "DOT legal" road race tires in a heavier car with a better suspension setup.
  18. Sounds like the west coast too...but it depends on where you hang out. We also probably have one of the largest subsets of classic muscle cars on earth
  19. I thought the bolt holes and some of the oil passages from the RB25/6 head line up with the L28 block? Wasn't there a thread about that on here somewhere?
  20. 1981 L28ET Okay...I got everything back together and have put about 200 miles on the car as-is with it running like crap (wanted to get to the MSA show this weekend) However, the car runs like complete crap. Has zero power, gets 7-8MPG, and backfires like crazy. I *did* set the phase on the rotor. I manually turned the crank over to #1 TDC and made sure the line on my crank pulley was at "0" on the dial (it was). I inserted the pin in the cap and adjusted the dizzy to line up properly. So far so good. Now I made sure all the plugs are in and the wires are on properly and fire the car up. The idle surges badly from 200 to 700RPM. I can give it throttle and keep it steady at 700RPM. Timing says it's at 2BTDC. Adjust the CAS to advance about 1/4" of movement and it goes to 10BTDC, idle does not change. Try and advance it any more and it stays at 10. I can move the CAS up and down the whole length and I can only go from 2-10BTDC. It seems as if 3/4 of the movement on the CAS does nothing. Now I can drive the car like this (sorta) and it runs about 15-20 degrees warmer than it used to and has the bad aforementioned gas mileage and no power. I will also add that I have tried three different Head Temp sensors and all of them yield the same results. I have also tried 3 different ECUs as well. Am I doing anything wrong in trying to set the timing? Is something else busted perhaps?
  21. '73 240Z with an '81 L28ET all stock... So I finally got my stupid car to spark again, parts store gave me a bad part. I've got spark on all 6 cylinders fine and I have it timed to ~18 BTDC with a really rough idle. When trying to get my car working, I changed the CAS, Coil, Plug Wires, all grounds, cap and rotor, plugs, and ECU. Now I've got spark fine on all 6, but cylinders 4 and 5 I don't seem to be getting any fuel. I've tested spark with a test rod in the end of the spark plug wire and all of them fire fine. Upon inspection of all the plugs, #4 and #5 look clean and brand new without any fuel film on them even. The car "idles" at ~600 RPM, but is very rough and won't rev up very well. I'm thinking that those injectors aren't firing at all. What on the car would cause 2 injectors to not fire? The car ran PERFECT before the power transistor shorted out. I just don't see that transistor shorting out AND two injectors going bad on me at the exact same moment... Could the CAS be out of adjustment some how and not allow them to fire? I've tried moving the CAS to all extremes and, while the car will run slightly different, those injectors still do not fire.
  22. I was hoping he simply got the car started... I have a brand new factory transistor (mounted on the coil bracket and all) and it didn't help me.
  23. Just an "update"... 1. Replaced Coil 2. Replaced Power Transistor (ignition module) 3. Replaced CAS 4. Replaced Ignition Switch 5. Replaced ECU 6. Checked continuity along all wires 7. Checked for proper voltage for fuel injection and ignition system on all wires 8. Checked all fuses (no fuseable links on this car) 9. Ran new grounds from Engine block, intake manifold, power transistor, ECU Not in the order above, but that is all I have done to this point I have 12+V going to the coil when "on", I get ~11.5V to the coil when cranking. I do not get ANY spark from the coil. I'm completely out of ideas at this point.
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