Techtron

I think that's a fair price for the machine. I have a Canox welder at work which is actually a re-badged Miller Dialarc-HF. I think its from the early ninety's. The TIG works fine for steel but it is a little more difficult to weld aluminium with it since it has settings for only high frequency AC or DC with none of the fancy square wave stuff modern TIG machines have. The high frequency works great but you have to set-up the two point-gaps under the front cover for it to work correctly. I think the gap setting is 0.008". You can still get a manual from Millers website which has all the specs, part numbers and maintenance routines.

A magnet can hold stuff for you while you are tacking things in place. Here are some 'booger' prevention tips I've learned from practicing: First, if you are using a gas mig welder make sure your gas regulator is adjusted for the proper flow. Second, having too much wire stick out will make the boogers as well cause the gas is not able to sheild the weld from too far away. Stick out is the length of wire that comes out of the end of the welder....so try to keep this to half an inch to an inch max. An easy way to do this is to use a pair of side cutters to cut the wire off to the proper length before you make your next weld. Allways positon yourself so you can see the weld pool or you will just burn through and make mistakes. You can hold the gun on a slight angle and push or pull the gun to help you see what you are doing. Just use a series of tacks to weld sheet metal. Space your tacks all over your work area to minimize heat warpage.This is called stitch welding. If you want to lay a bead of weld dont lay a bead longer than inch between tacks or you will have unreapirable warpage. Miller and Hobart both have excellent websites with tons of info to help you trouble shoot your welds. Hope this helps and good luck!

These are called knock-out punches by electricians. You can buy these at any electrical supply store. They are used to punch out holes in electrical panels for pipe fittings. Green Lee is the best for sure out of all the ones I have used. They stay sharp longer, resist chipping and cut faster but they are also the most expensive. You can also buy a step-drill bit to make those holes. Good luck!

Great job man! I rarely post either. The more you practice the better you will get. It seems like you are picking up things quickly. Take it one patch at a time and make small goals. That helps me when I start working on my project. When you are done the wheel wells you will be well practiced to make excellent work out of more visible bodywork. This is all possible with a stick welder. Use some small rods. I think the 7014 rods you are using are the easiest to start an arc with but the downside is they also have high penetration so this is prolly why you are burning through. I could be wrong though. Look at the site:http://www.metalmeet.com/forum/index.php? those guys will have lots of help to offer you if you need it. Good luck!

Hello all! What is a fair price to ask for gently used MSAII body kit pieces? I have the rear skirt and side skirts that came with my 280Z but I am restoring back to stock looks now. I even built a rotisserie! Anyways the pieces are not cracked or chipped but they have the holes drilled in them from the mounting screws. Probably need to be stripped of the old paint too. Thanks!

PM sent, good luck!

Are you talking about the mechanisim that stops the roll from free-wheeling when you stop welding? If thats what you mean my Miller just uses a spring with a knob on top so you can make it tighter or looser to your liking. This simply applies adjustable pressure to the 'hub' of the roll. I am sure you could make this or just buy it from a welding shop. Let me know if you want pictures of machine or something. Good luck!

Hey guys, I want to weld 3/8'' flat plate to the tops of my axel stands but I cant tell if they are cast iron or cast steel. You can see they are definetly cast something. MIG bead sticks to it and wont knock off with a hammer. Is there a way to tell if something is cast iron? Thanks!