Paz8
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Posts posted by Paz8
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Check your rear diff. mount, it acts as the third mounting point for the entire rear sub frame assy. anything wrong will effect the entire rear suspension.
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Using a 700r4 trans in my zx, I got the trans, convertor and flex plate from a 85' Trans Am. The flex plate center hole is about 2 inches but the end of my crankshaft is 2.5 inches, The engine block and crank is a 73' Vette 350, anyone know which flex plate I need?
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About the same amount of horse power as my V-12 Merlin aircraft engine mounted in my 240 Z, that has twin superchargers and water injection for take off's. I had to save up alot of lunch money too.
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Maybe the noise from the pump is caused by the pump sucking air, fuel pick-up in tank?? Or the pump is bad or has some dirt in the gear rotors, just my $.02
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Thanks for the help, I did think maybe it warped but thought that it was far too heavy to warp in an 1/8 inch.
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Need some help to ID this GM cast iron manifold #364753 8 LH, is the RH manifold the same number only with a RH at the end. What vehicles were they in? I also noticed that the spacing of the bolt holes from far right to far left is about an 1/8 inch shorter than every other SBC manifold that I measured.
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I would never call myself a welder but do have some experience.
What size wire are you using? I find that flux core wire is very hard to use on thin sheet metal, as compared to small dia. wire with gas, the difference is like night and day.
Mig welders are great but you need to weld CLEAN steel, use some fine sand paper or scotch pad to clean up.
Even if you do everything right and the body panel is rusted bad on the back side where you can't see, it will blow through.
Turn the wire speed down about half way, and make sure your ground clamp has a good contact.
Just my opinion.
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Do some "homework" and find a good set of heads, there are probably a 100 different types that will "fit". The heads are important, don't settle for anything that will just "fit".
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Assuming that your car is going to be street driven, and not a drag car, I'd say try a 2400 RPM stall with lock up clutch. Higher stall convertors generate more heat in the trans so you will need convertor lock up if you want the trans to last longer.
Just my opinion, I'm sure there are others.
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It's hooked up to the left front speaker, if you installed an up graded audio system it may not work correctly.
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Don't try to fix the TA, the reason the buy back from the insurance co. is low is that they KEEP the TITLE to the car. You can fix it and apply for a reconstructed vehicle title but, if you change your mind and try to sell the car it won't be worth much.
Buy a Z car, alot of fun to drive even if stock.
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I think the roll over shut off is mandatory on all EFI cars, everyone I owned had one. It's usally built into the fuel pump relay and not the fuel line, locations vary, if you can find a owners manual it will be in there. Look at kick panels inside car, sometimes marked with a reset fuel pump sticker. Look in the interior rear of the car for a access door, may be there. You can try calling a Nissian dealer and asking the service manager where to reset, won't cost anything to try.
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I thought about the fuel pump shut off, I'll use starter disable instead. Here is my kind of luck, some a*s hole steals my Z, there is enough fuel to start it and drive away into the path of an eighteen wheeler were the car suddenly dies, leaving my car looking about four feet shorter and a taillight jammed into the back side of the jerk who stole it.
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83 ZX's have a different rear brake caliper than earlier ZX's. The same caliper piston that applies the brakes also applies the parking brake via a threaded screw in the rear of the piston, this makes the parking brake "self adjusting" as the pads wear down. Buy a pair of used calipers off someone on this site, will be far cheaper, and don't go back to that same guy to have them installed. Jack up the rear of your car and see if the back wheel turns with the parking brake OFF, trans in neutral, if so then DO NOT use the hand brake until your new calipers are installed and adjusted. This way you can still use the car.
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The Camaro Alum. rad is very light, which is a good thing to keep weight down in the front of the car. If it's mounted correctly it won't shake apart. 76 brkracer are you running an electric fan?? The Camaro is a single row rad.
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The standard rad. out of a 84 to 86 V8 Camaro fits, earlier ones may also not sure. it's about 26 inches wide, the heavy duty cooling rad. will NOT fit too wide. Get the top fan shroud it has the rubber mounts built into it to hold the rad. at the top, you'll need to modify it. You can fabricate a lower bracket, not that difficult, the rad. needs to be rubber mounted top and bottom.
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You said it only pushed out a small amount of air?? How about in the HEAT position, blower put out more air?? If the inside of the car was not that warm the blower will work on low speed, if hot inside the car blower speed will pick up faster, thats how the system works, could be nothing wrong??
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And I thought that rusty Z's were an EAST coast thing. Looks not that bad, your off to a good start.
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Back to your original question, what to keep, partial list: engine, trans and shifter, drive shaft, all the engine sensors and wiring, the ECM computer and wiring harness.Don't know about radiator may be too wide to fit between frame rails? Buy the JTR book on Chevy TPI &TBI engine swapping, lot of great info that you are looking for. Their phone #925-462-3619, that will answer alot of your questions.
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Sounds like the motor "loading up" with fuel, the gasp out of the carb is the spark plugs misfiring trying to burn clean then Ok. Do you have the lock up clutch connected in the trans?? If so is it connected for overdrive only or in any gear?? The torque converter issue goes like this. Unless your drag racing the car you want a converter with a LOW stall speed with a light car like a Z, because it makes it a little harder to spin the back tires in the rain, snow, with a street driver.
This may sound stupid but are you sure nothing else is wrong with the rolling chassis, like hung up brakes???
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That s*cks!!!!!
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Thanks for the input on the alarm system. How about a drivers side ejection seat, only I won't blow off the T tops first. Thats gotta be a trip to the hospital. I'll use compressed air to move the seat so my interior won't get screwed up, except for the human body parts. Just realized I'm as SICK as you guys are!!
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Alf, your right about the valve sizes, mine came off a 67 corvette, I know from the casting numbers, the block is a 73 vette. Chevy made so many variations of the small block that there is alot of good original factory parts around, just need to know what your looking for.
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Looking at the relay box from the passenger side fender the head light hi-lo relay is the one all the way toward firewall and in the row toward the engine. Have someone do the hi lo beam in the car and see if it clicks, then go from there.
What to do with the original a/c?
in Miscellaneous Tech
Posted
Find the sight glass on the system, with the compressor running you can see the liquid refrigerant moving through the system. You charge it until all the bubbles in the sight glass are gone, try not to get any air in the system when you charge it.