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ZROSSA

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Posts posted by ZROSSA

  1. Well, I was going to show you the Del West web site but the don apear to have one. :confused:

     

    Here is a adress and phone #

     

    Del West Engineering

    28128 west livingston

    Valencia, Ca 91355

    ph 661 295 5700

    fax 661 295 8300

     

    I think price is the major reason they are not used. You would need a different material for your valve guides as the ti will gall with the usual stuff. Honda bonk.gif and others now use it for there rods on hi po engines.

     

    It would be nice to have that ford of yours up near 8000 rpm. :D:D:D Better get some.

     

    Douglas

  2. Alrightythen,

     

    I have done a bit of leg work and visited the local aircraft repair place and talked to a supplier of all things glue like in town. The aircraft guys use 3ms scotch weld and the other people offered something that was strong but flexable. I dont want flex at all. I compaired the shear strenghts and the 3m stuff was on the bottom of the scale, around 1700 psi per inch.

    t-88 is 2000 psi

    es6279 aeropoxy 3480 psi

    hysol ea9430 4500 psi.

    The strengt was on bonded ali. cured at room temp.

    The hysol also had a really high peel strenght which makes it way better then the rest IMHO.

     

    This has not been a easy subject to research. I have spent days on the p.c. trying to battle through Material data sheets and sites designed for NASA, not back yard dreamers like myself.

     

    Do any of you know of any thing stronger?

     

    Thanks again,

     

    Douglas

  3. Jens,

    This was the repco-brabham f1 engine that Jack brabham won the world chapionship in. The cosworth pretty much made it redundant. It was based on the rover block but had overhead cams and in its final evolution had 4v per cylinder but it was never reliable in this form.

     

    The engine you were talking about was in the mg metro 6r4 or something like that, right?

     

    Cheers

     

    Douglas

  4. Thanks guys,

    Aircraft spruce got back to me this morning and suggested something called t-88. I think that stronger stuff exists. Anyone familiar with it?

    I dont mean to be to much of a cynic but i think the sugested this becuase it can be air mailed.

    weird.gif

    Does any one else have any sugestion. The whole piont is to make it as strong and stiff as possable.

     

    Cheers

     

    Douglas

  5. Lone is right,

     

    Toyota made an all ali. push rod hemi way before the lexus and v12. i remember thinking it was like 2 3ts on a comon crank but later read that it was base on the crysler hemi but smaller. Displacement was around 3.6 lts. I used to see them in the aussie boy racer mags but have never seen one in the flesh. I keep forgeting about this one, May be usefull for another swap in the future. bonk.gif

     

    Douglas

  6. Howdy all,

     

    I have been frying my brain over the last couple of days trying to find out inf. on adhesives. I have studied "aircraft spruce" and e-mailed them some questions but have had no reply as yet. I have also been in a NASA site that has the strenghts of lots of different ones,but what a nightmare. I am now far more confused. What i want is a adesive that is stiff and strong as possable that can be used at room temp. So far the best i have com up with is something called ar-1004 from tacc international, but there web site has nothing on it. The other ones that i have acsess two are hysol ea9430 or aeropoxy es6279. I am going to be joining ali., steel, balsa wood and mabye fiberglass or carbon fibre depending on what will work. The parts can be riveted as well.

     

    Any one out there know of anything better? This will be to make the rear floor and fire wall on my race car and on the backbone chassis on the z.

     

    Thanks

     

    Douglas

  7. ca18 came out in silvias, bluebirds, sentras and that ugly thing with the removable hatch so you can turn it into a wagon. I will say it again, if i lived in the usa, i would do a ka24 wit a turbo. It must be cheeper then the sr20 overthere.

     

    Douglas

  8. I am pretty sold on these mufflers. Mike, does your duel inlet have the oval pipes or are they round? I didnt see any round ones on there site for the duel inlets. I would like the duel inlet and outlet myself. Does any on e know if thay would restrict hp compared to a duel muffler set up?

     

    BTW Georgia boys, I grew up in Atlanta. Lived in Stone Mountain, Decator, and Buckhead.

     

    Douglas

  9. What direction is the flow on the spin techs?

     

    I would like my z to sound more like a ferrari. I was on the band wagon for 180 degree header and flat plane cranks then i found out that a x-pipe will give the same sound. Pretty happy about that. A hell of a lot less work.

     

    Douglas

  10. Tom,

     

    I have done this with a zx and a couple of corollas. You can only go so far though. Jack the car up and mesure the distances between the upper and lower spring holders. Never cut the spring shorter then this distance or it will flop about. I do the front first. This will determine the lowest the car will sit. Be conservative with removing coils from the rear. You dont want it lower then the front. I used to mark the coils where i would cut them and put them in a bucket of water up to that point. I would then use a cut of disk on my grinder and cut it as fast as i could. Best to use an air grinder buy the way although i have done it with electric.

    bonk.gifbonk.gif

     

    In NZ the local mot will fail you if you have cut springs. Mine always passed using this method. Now i Just go and buy them. Much easyier.

     

    Cheers

     

    Douglas

  11. I have to say that i am also a rear wheel or four wheel drive person as well. It drives my wife mad when its time to get a new set of wheels. "Thats a nice car" no , front wheel drive. "Arrrggggg". So she now has a full time four wheel drive legacy turbo, Still not as fun as pure rear wheel drive but a happy compromise.

     

    I belive that front wheel drive owes its existance to cost and ease of manufacture. The whole drive train just slots in from underneath on the assemble line. This saves money. Car makers love that.

     

    Fun can be had in front wheel drive cars. When I worked for other people and had co. cars they were always f/wheel drive. Left foot braking, tossing the car into corners while still on the brakes and the old hand brake made for a bit of fun. There wasnt much you could due on high speed corners though.

     

    One other thing to ponder, When the british turing cars where at there hight the front wheel drive cars where given a weight brake of around 50 kg over the rear wheel drive cars. In NZ and Aussie the championship winners where always rear wheel drive or four wheel drive despite the extra weight.

     

    Cheers

     

    Douglas

  12. Thanks G.V.

     

    I can see myself doing the race block any time soon. cry2.gif

     

    I was more interested in pushing the boundarys of the 350 i already have. With the 3.875 crank and a .30 over piston this would be around 393 cube, Whouldnt it? That should be enough to get my lardy arse down the road. icon_biggrin.gif

     

    Cheers

     

    Douglas

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