veritech-z
-
Posts
1662 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
1
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Posts posted by veritech-z
-
-
hey everybody, just a quick question: i've got a throttle body off of a nissan stanza (all the 240sx's that i saw in the boneyard had the throttle wheel on the wrong side to work with the stock linkage, but the fwd stanza worked fine [i also snagged a 90mm q45 throttle body that day]) that i'm using with my megasquirt install, and for reasons that seemed good at the time i no longer have the tps that came on it. Now that i'm almost ready to finish up my megasquirt, i need to get a new throttle position sensor, and evidently the ka24 has a different sensor from standard to automatic (with an extra $20 for the manual sensor for some unknown reason). my question is this: if i get the cheaper automatic sensor, is it going to work?
-
pipe thread doesn't work like that with the coarse thread and fine thread. pipe thread is tapered so that cranking it down creates a seal at the back end. what i would do is try to find a 1/8th npt adapter to run a -6an line to the turbo inlet, and get the largest drain you can fit. i belive that -6 line is 3/8", and a good return line size would be -8 which is roughly 1/2" in standard size. you can get bulkhead fittings like on a fuel cell that allow you to drill out the pan and and install the adapter to connect to the drain line. you'd probably want to epoxy it though just to be sure it doesn't leak.
-
isn't there also an anti drainback valve in it? just for the record, my stock 77 280z pump put 45psi to the fuel rail (i have a gauge there) with the engine off...since it never ran with that setup, i don't know if that would have changed once the pressure regulator started to get a vacuum signal.
*edit* : i just checked my haynes manual, and it had this to say under fuel damper, removal and refitting: "the purpose of this device is to even out any pulsations in the fuel lines"
-
any of you fellow floridians familiar with XAT racing's smokey and the bandit front conversion on this s13 hatchback? tampa is rad...note the period correct golden snowflake wheels..
-
it's cool guy, i'm not mad at you, just wanted you to know you come off a little bitter is all.
-
i can't recall one positive, helpful post i've ever seen from bjhines...constructive criticism is all well and good but that guy is sippin on some serious hater-aid...sour grape flavor....
-
i got mine from an abandoned fish farm, and it had a dead o'possum rotting away under it, and a snake living in the passenger seat...but $200 bucks is a steal for a car that just needed some tlc. wish i had an older model that could use some of those parts...i really need a new hatch
-
I'd love to get rid of my 14" wheel collection, but even if you were interested i think shipping from florida to texas would make them not very cost effective...i've got the western turbine wheels in both the tight and wide spokes, and i've got some momo quasars with no center caps in 15X7 with 195 50 15 toyo tires on them. but you'd need spacers to run those...
-
how about doing silver front, black rear, with the red pixelated stripe like the current batch of nissan race cars?
-
I've never been that into the full body conversions, but i hope yours goes well. the only info i've really got for you is that the 4 and 5 lug hubs are both on a 114.3 bolt circle. also, there is a pretty cool thread in the other engines forum about a bmw v-12 ferrari conversion, just run a search for bmw v-12 and it should come up.
-
how do you keep exhaust from sneaking out of the throttle shaft on the spoolie jobbie? i was planning my manifold around the idea that if you keep the exhaust pulses seperate all the way down to the turbine housing, they would promote a faster spool (as per "maximum boost"). so i was going to run 1-2-3 into one side of the housing, and 4-5-6 into the other, with a balance tube for the wastegate. that way the exhaust pulses would hit alternating sides of the wheel right after each other. my garrett t4 has a 1.15 A/R
-
is that going to be for those mystery roller rockers that were on ebay awhile back?
-
the seller is listed as being in california...
-
how long (if at all) was this car sitting before you got it? mine sat for a few years at least with the driver's side window down (because the door handles were both broken, go figure) under a tarp, and the wiring and ecu looked like they came from the titanic. the reason i ask is because fuel will start to go bad after a certain amount of time, and any old gas left in the lines or tank will leave varnish deposits that could concievably be enough to prevent the fuel from getting to the front of the car. another possibility is that the pump has some internal failure such that it's electric motor is turning, but it's not actually pumping. if you hotwire it with fuel coming to it, and it doesn't spit out the other side, you've just isolated your problem to the pump itself i would think. try to diagnose your problem by testing only one variable at a time: you've proven gas will leak out of the tank, so that's good. it won't get to the front of the car, so see if it will come out of the pump, then see if it's getting from the pump to the fuel filter inlet, then from there to the rail and so on. you can test injectors with a 9 volt battery. just run jumper wires from the + and - of the battery to the terminals on the injector and listen for the click. polarity doesn't matter in this test i don't believe...
-
my z was doing that when i first got it, and i never could get the fuel injection to work. i put on some su's and it runs fine. i'm not really happy with them though, so i'm putting together my sensors to run my megasquirt. i guess the answer to your question is that you clearly have spark, but no fuel. i don't like the lack of engine diagnostics on the stock fuel injection, it makes the system a PIA to trouble shoot.
-
yeah, what i meant by that was wider than the stock fender, but in order to get that duct to work, it would have to tuck back in, or the duct would have to stick out even more than the new wider side skirt in order to get any air in there. both of which seem like they would be visually awkward (of course that is just my opinion though), although having it tuck back in would be the less awkward solution. with those wheels you are using (is there a real wheel you have picked out like that by the way? they are pretty cool) i would expect you'd have plenty of brake cooling, but if no, you could always source your brake cooling ducts from the air passing under the car(there should be some space near the drive shaft in the center), and have the air directed from inside the wheel well. unless you route the air beyond just opening a duct, it's only going to hit the tire anyway, and not be directed towards the brake rotor, doing what i imagine would be more aerodynamic harm than brake-cooling good?
-
i think the zx needs a little something to give it some character. i like the rear flares, but i would steer clear of the fast and furious non-functional air scoops most body kits incorporate into the rear of the rocker panels which i see hints of in that pencil sketch, especially since the front part of the side skirt looks like it is wider than the stock fender, but would have to angle back in to make that scoop work the way you have it drawn. it looks awkward to my eye, but if you have to have a little vent there, i would rather see it behind the rear wheel to vent out some of the air that gets trapped there.
are you planning to shave the door handles, or are you going to try and space them out to where they would have to be in order for you to extend your fender into the door like you have it?
-
i especially like his copper fuel lines hose clamped onto his fuel rail...
That is a nice looking fascia, it goes well with the flairs on the orange car
-
Oil Pressure Sensor threads
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
Sorry for the bum advice savageskaterkid, i stand corrected on the feed line size. I thought I had read in maximum boost or somewhere that 3/8" was a good tube diameter, but if you guys are running 1/4" (-4) and smaller with no problems, then all the better since -4 hose is cheaper by the foot (at least here in tampa) than the other sizes. I haven't gotten my turbo installed yet, and am also in the process of putting together all the ancillary pieces to the system. 1/8th npt taps aren't that hard to come by in the states, you can get them at most hardware stores. i got one from harbor freight as part of a set.
Does the feed line need to be flexible on this engine, or could you use say one of those aftermarket brake lines that already has the 1/8" npt fittings on the end that you bend yourself?
Hey savageskaterkid, i reread your first post, and it sounded to me like you were going to try to avoid tapping the pan? You don't tap the pan for the feed line because there is no pressure there. You run the return line there so the oil can drain back into the system. That's why you want a larger drain line, to reduce the restriction to flow (unless you have a scavenger pump of some kind, gravity is what is getting the oil back to the pan), and you want to make sure that the drain is above the level of the oil in the pan so it doesn't get backed up, so i've been told.