Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Donations

    20.00 USD 
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback


Community Reputation

1 Neutral

About Rosco

  • Rank
    Always Here
  • Birthday 04/25/1978

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Raleigh NC

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Anyway you can send me more pictures of your cooling system set up? Thank you
  2. I found the tank out of a Satern View to be the correct size and hose configuration. Probably an early 2000's model, I don't remember what year exactly.
  3. Its been a while sense I've posted here so I thought I'd throw these pics up. I'll preface this by saying I'm running a 3.2 Rebillo motor on 110 with ITB's and an Adaptronic ECU. 5 speed 240sx trans with a 5.5" clutch and a flex plate. 4.11 final drive with some Hoosier R7's I was having an issue pushing water out of the radiator during race like conditions. Only happened after several laps at full tilt. Not sure if I'm getting exhaust gas pushing by the head gasket or what. I did a test on the coolant to see if gas was present and it was negative but I'm not sure how accurate those auto zone test kits are. The other strange thing is the system wouldn't suck the water back in from the catch can after it cooled down. So… we decided to look into a recirculating system. We took a trip to the junkyard and scored this tank. I made some brackets for it and mounted it. I have an inline filler on the upper radiator hose that has a overflow outlet, I connected the inlet on the tank to the outlet on the filler neck and installed a 0 PSI radiator cap there. I have a 15 PSI cap on the recirculating tank. The outlet on the tank goes where the heater return line would normally go. I ran this setup at VIR full a couple weekends ago. Everything seems to work great, it built pressure as it should and cleared air out of the system.
  4. Very nice, I should have the Z back up and running this weekend. Running it at Roebling Road Raceway out side of Savannah. Its not my favorite track but I go to see family in Savannah so might as well get some track time in
  5. After all that work I ran it twice and broke the crank. I think the clutch was out of balance for a long time and eventually wore it out. I sent it off and had a new crank nitrided, eliminated the distributor and went with individual coils, did away with the flywheel and went with a flex plate and got a Quarter Master Pro 5.5 clutch. I haven't had time to put it back together but will post up when I do
  6. I'm selling my flywheel and clutch. Its been in the car for 2 track events. I'm going with a flex plate and don't want this setup anymore. Cash, paypal (friends and family), postal money order excepted. I live in 27613 http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/21-2016 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fiz-143281 Flywheel $200 plus shipping Clutch $170 plus shipping Text me 919-641-2242 Thanks
  7. Where do you live and how much would you like for it? Pics?
  8. I'm looking for some 5 speeds for my 75 280z. 77-79 would be great but 1980, 81-83, BW T5 would be entertained for the right price. Text me 919-641-2242 Thanks
  9. Well… I found a 4.11 R&P and had it put in my R200 long nose. With the 240sx trans and 4.11 final gear it brought this car to life! I am pulling away from everyone out of the turns. I love it!
  10. Well here's a short run down on the shakedown. I had a 3:54 diff with a 240sx 5 speed in it for a couple years but this winter I put a 4:11 in it. What a difference! I love it. The 240sx came stock with a 4:11 so there meant for each other. I'm in the power band all the time now and just pull out of every turn like you wouldn't believe. With the 4:11 the jump from 4th to 5th doesn't seem that bad at all. We added fender flairs to the car so I was able to widen the track width. With the AZ lower control arms I was able to run the heim joints out increasing the rear by about 1 1/2"-2" total and the front about 1'-1 1/2". This allowed me to get 3 degrees of camber in the front and as much as I want in the rear, I went for 2.6. I have to say the car acts like its on rails now, its unbelievable how stable the car is now. (3 degrees camber in the front, 2.6 in the rear, 1/8" total toe in in the rear, 1/6" total toe out in the front, max caster was 2.7 we may increase that but will require some surgery) We sealed around the radiator so air has to go threw it, that and the hood vents kept the water temp around 180. It ran hotter than that before. I'm working on tire temps and pressures to see where the alignment needs to be but didn't get much data to go on this event. At first glance it looks like we need a little less camber or more toe or more pressure… not sure yet. I progressively pushed harder and harder as the day went on and did shake out one problem. Haven't figured it out yet but I think its a simple electrical fix. fingers crossed. Stay tuned
  • Create New...