Phred

Doug, Go with the full press fit! I have been installing rod bushings for a long time, please believe me. If it was an extreamly thick bushing, .002 might work. The thin bushings are not brittle, and will press in very easily with high pressure lube. The last thing you need is a bushing coming loose. The best method is to chamfer/polish the leading edge of the rod bore with some 400 emory paper, then do a nice radius on the OD of the entry end of the bushing. Then press them in. Drillthe oil hole, then hone (.0008) for proper pin clearence. many bushings are small on the ID as supplied, and require align boring to within a thou or so of the finished size, then a final hone to size. Then when done, use the 400 paper again on the ID of the finished bushing. This will make assembly easier, and allow the pin to slide in and through the the new bushing with no muss or fuss. I recondition Carrillo, & Pauter rod on a weekly basis, and these have very thin bushings. .004 press min. Phred

Hi Dave, First, I have to apologize to Mack for hijacking his thread. Even though I don't post much here, I spend quite a bit of time here. There is a greater supply of tech. info here than on other sites. The people over at Classic Zcar are a good group, and I like to help out when I can. Yes, I have a fairly modified E88 I've been working on, and is about 85% finished. Mildly ported, matched and dowled to a ported TWM intake with 45DCOE's. Stainless valves, sized 44/36. I havn't made up my mind what to do with compression, so its not surfaced yet. But it will have a chamber size of around 44cc's. I'll post a few pix of it on a fresh thread when its finished. Phred

A couple more pix of my JE/Carrilo 5.510 long rod. Phred

Mack, it can be done. You just have to pay the piper. I have been on a similar mind set, and have the hardware in hand. I chose to go with a + .040 overbore on an F54 to maintain cylinder strength. With the LD28 stroke, this combo has 2960.4cc. I have the longest rod I could fit in it, an L16 length of 5.510, made by Carrillo. The pistons are custom JE with a comp. Ht. of 1.056. You'll notice in the pics that the pin is into the oil ring land! This is handled by a thick lower oil ring support rail which is installed after the rod/pin/locks are assembled. Then a std. 3.5mm three piece oil ring is installed, followed by the 1st and 2nd rings which are 1.5mm ea. Datsuns have terrible rod/stroke ratios, and it would have gotten a lot worse if I hadn't gone with this setup. No, this hasn't hit the dyno yet, but I have built other engines with a similar rod/piston/pin layout which were sucsessfull. So I hope my own engine is too. Phred

? Can anyone identify these part numbers? and their application? 13201-22010 Int. valve 13202-22010 Exh. valve I have lost my old Nissan Comp. parts list. Thanks. Phred

Isk, The .008Int. & .010Exh. is the valve lash. You are able to get more consistent readings with lash set. Ater all, that's the the way the engine see's the cam. .050 lift (at the cam or valve) is an industry std. for checking cams. Also, because of differences in rockers and where you have the contact patch set up, its not unusual to get slightly different readings from engine to engine. That is why you must carefully degree each cam, so as to locate the centerline and the true timimg in relation to the crankshaft. (Advance or Retard). Going racing, Back Monday. Phred

iskone, Ok, I found both specs. You will be able to tell which one it is for sure if you get a dial indicator on it and just check the lift. Its probably the L-4-02. It was generaly considered the best steel valved cam. Not as aggressive a lobe profile as the L-3-04, which was best with ti valves. These specs were taken at .050 valve lift with .008 & .010 clr. We would slightly advance or retard the cam depending on the track length, and carb configuration, and specific engine specs. Since the L-4 was considered a "torque" cam we set them up with anywhere from 1/2 to 2 degrees advance. The L-3-04 was the high rpm cam and we got best results with 1/2 to 3/4 retard. Depending on where it was set, the L-4 cam ran out of steam around 7800 to 8000, while the L-3 cam pulled to well over 9000. Both cams were popular in old C-Production/GT-2 cars. L-4-02 Electramotive Int. Lift .562 I.O. 22 btdc Duration 247 degrees I.C. 45 abdc Int. lobe center 101.5 Exh. Lift .552 E.O. 46 bbdc Duration 246 degrees E.C. 20 atdc Exh. lobe center 103 In this configuration, this cam would be 3/4 degree advanced. Hope this helps. Phred

iskone, Can you be more specific? Electramotive, which at one time supplied cams to Datsun Comp, had a L-4-02, and a L-3-04 profile. I have actual specs taken when I degreed these cams many years ago. I will dig through my old files and see what I can find. Phred