eec564
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Posts posted by eec564
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What exactly did you switch around? Did you drive different injectors from different injector drivers? Did you simply swap injectors between cylinders?
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Yes, but I always found that description a little confusing as cold 10 wt oil is still way thicker than hot 40 wt. It's a bit too easy to interchange an oil's SAE weight and it's thickness rating at a given temperature.
I like the description (albeit un-quantified) of multi-grade oils simply not thickening as much when the cool to room temperature, allowing for better engine start-up.
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How's the megasquirt wired? I bet it's injector channel 1 to cyl 1, 2 & 3, and channel 2 to cyl 4, 5 & 6. It certainly sounds like a problem with the injector driver or something else in the megasquirt.
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Yes, I know it's winter. From my book I read ( It's dutch ):
Bv een motorolie 15W40.
Bij temperaturen onder 0°C zal de viscositeit overeenkomen met de viscositeitklasse SAE 15W en voor temperaturen boven 0°C zal de viscositeit overeenkomen met die van de viscositeitklasse SAE 40.
Saying the low number is the thickness when the engine is cold, and high number at operating temperature.
That's why street driven/track cars need thicker oils like Castrol 10W60 or MPM 10W50.
I have never problems with engine oils so far. Maye I read it a bit different than you guys, but I understand.
I think a description that would appease more HybridZers would be thus:
The number before the W is the SAE weight the oil behaves like when cold.
The number after the W is the SAE weight the oil behaves like when hot.
10W40 acts like cold 10 wt oil when cold, and acts like hot 40 wt oil when hot.
Also, question:
...But to make it easy there are 4 categories:
- Minarel
- Semi Synthetic
- Synthetic
- Full Synthetic
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I understand mineral and semi-synthetic, but what's the difference between synthetic and full synthetic?
-Eric
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What I don't like about weld-through primers is their name. It implies that it's safe. I mean, it's sold on the shelf, and should be welded right through, right? I don't know any welders that use a respirator on a regular basis. Even if it generally won't kill you, it's not good for you, and there's always a chance of a bad reaction.
Welding is 95% prep and 5% welding, if even that. I have friends call me all the time to weld something, and I tell them "Okay, I'll come right over when you're ready, here's the checklist..." Seems like nobody realizes the work involved when working with anything except virgin material.
-Eric
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I just had a can of soda explode in the rear of my Z today. I bet it made around 1/20th the mess the fix-a-flat did, not counting the broken window. Glad I caught it, as I was about to take a different car away for the weekend.
My solution to flat tires (my spare is okay, but it's as old as the car so...) is to carry a patch (plug) kit and 12v air compressor. Works great, keeps your valve stems from getting gummed up, and can fully fill a tire every time. Fix-a-flat doesn't always have enough in it to bring a tire up to a reasonable temperature. I know the kit isn't what they like to do today, dismounting the tire and using a flat patch, but I've never had a problem with plugs.
-Eric
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Also watch out for weldable primers. They contain zinc, and it is much the same as welding galvanized steel. Best rule is always clean ALL paint or coatings off of any area you plan on welding.
http://www.osha.gov/doc/outreachtraining/htmlfiles/weldhlth.html
-Eric
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Nothing is foolproof to a sufficiently talented fool.
Make it idiot proof, and someone will make a better idiot.
A committee is a group of the unwilling, chosen from the unfit, to do the unnecessary.
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If you loan a man 20$, and never see him again, it was probably worth it.
And a very good Irish friend of mine told me:
"Always drink on a Sunday. You don't want to go wastin' a hangover on a day off." - Paul
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"Whatever you do, don't get caught." - My Dad
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Learn from the mistakes of others.
You won't live long enough to make them all yourself.
-A pilot friend of mine
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I think you should use proper grammar in your posts. Capitalization in particular. Then you should look at the bottle you purchased and compare the label on it to the specifications of your transmission.
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I'd say put MTL in and see what happens. Swap it out later if it's not better within a week. How many miles per day/week/whatever do you drive?
I know what you mean about the early vs late trannys. My 280ZX is an 82, but has an early tranny in it. Plus the 3.9 R200. 1st is damn near useless, and with the wide torque band of the L6 gears like that aren't needed. 3600 rpm on the freeway isn't that much fun, I need a 3.54 rear, at the very least.
-Eric
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Dave - that's good stuff. Everybody note the GL-4 rating - that's what we need.
Flexi - All the fluids we're talking about here are for manual transmissions. No Dexron, Type F, or +4 here. The bad thing is GL-5 (only) rated fluids say for manual transmissions and rear ends on them. They're okay for some newer transmissions without yellowed metals in them, but wreck havoc with ours.
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Y'all shouldn't feel that bad. It's real easy to make that mistake the first time, especially with synthetics being advertised as being so good for transmissions, and the weight of the oil being correct. I did it once, and realized within two miles something didn't sound right. Took two changes of oil and a few thousand miles with good stuff in it to get things to settle down. There's still a tiny bit of noise in neutral and reverse, but everything works great now.
Be nice if someone who has rebuilt transmissions would chime in here and note which parts of which transmissions are brass or bronze.
-Eric
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When you say two connectors, do you mean two pins on the top? Or two separate connectors with two pins each? The one with two separate connections of two pins each adjusts timing in a weird way. Make sure your vacuum advance is ported, not constant, and just for kicks adjust your AFM 1/2 to 1 tooth looser to ritchen the mixture. See what happens. I won't be around for the weekend, going sailing, but I'll be back sometime later.
-Eric
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I kinda doubt the diff is the problem. He's tried two different ones, and in my experience with messed up gears, they work better at low speeds, and catch at high speeds. My grandpa's pickup has a chipped tooth in the 4wd transfer case, so in 4wd you can't go over 30mph, but works fine below that.
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The local Kragens (now Oreillys) have Mobil 1 on sale as a buy 4 get the 5th free, limit two free. You can pick up the coupon from the display in the front of the store, good through 9/1/09.
They also have 5qts of Castrol GTX plus one Fram oil filter for 15.99, limit 10qts/2 filters.
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Slack in a drivetrain normally isn't an issue. As long as there is a smooth and constant amount of power going to the wheels then there isn't trouble. Under no normal circumstances should power be given to and then taken away rapidly. Even new cars will jerk and make clunking noises if you treat their accellerator pedals like the kick button in mortal combat.
Your vacuum advance should be hooked up to ported vacuum, so there is no advance at idle, and then once you crack the throttle past perhaps 10 degrees, there is vacuum present. Time the car with that line unhooked and plugged.
Which 280ZX distributor do you have? Are there one or two 2-pin connectors on the black box? Verify TDC on #1 with the tool that screws in to the spark plug hole and your rotate the engine by hand, that way you know your dampener hasn't slipped. Also, try enriching your entire fuel mixture by moving the AFM gear one tooth after marking the original position. See if you're running lean. A wideband is ideal, but making small changes to mixture to see what happens works too.
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This is the non-turbo car then? Unhook the vac line and drive 100 feet. Just try it. How did you time it?
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Try completely unhooking the vacuum advance line from the distributor and going out and back in to your driveway. I'm wondering if you don't have it hooked up to ported vacuum, but constant.
-Eric
Edit: Wait, aren't you running the turbo ECU with CAS sensor, rather than traditional distributor?
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Had you considered the 87-89 Z31 style? It molds into the Z lines nicely, although might be a bit thicker and wider then what you're looking for. I can take exact measurements if you'd like. Full-sized versions of these pictures are in my gallery.
-Eric
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Yes, it would happen that quickly. MT-1 and GL-5 use high pressure modifiers to withstand the forces of hypoid gears as found in rear ends and some transfer cases. These modifiers wreak havoc on older transmissions with yellow metals in them (bronze, etc), causing them to fail in VERY short order. All fluids used in Z transmissions MUST meet GL-4 standards, and I perfer ones (for the non-synthetics) that do NOT meet the GL-5 standard as well. That's most likely my superstition, but it keeps me from grabbing the wrong bottle, or getting cheap stuff that's trying to make the best of both worlds, doing neither well. For non-synthetic, I use valvoline in the gallon jug, that's GL-4 only. Hard to find, but works great. Far better is Redline MTL, which is a GL-4 ONLY rated synthetic, not GL-5. Great for tranny, not rear end.
At this point, your options are rebuild your tranny, or get a new one. Take it apart and see if you chipped/broke any gears. And just the Redline MTL, it's cheaper than Valvoline Synthetic, and plays nice with Z transmissions. Good luck, keep us posted.
-Eric
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My bet would be a bearing ate it, causing miss-alignment of the shafts. As the shafts come out of place, things don't work quite right, becoming not at all quite rapidly. The mobil 1 might have been the issue, I don't believe it's rated for GL-4, only GL-5. Fine in a rear end, but does not play nice with out transmissions. The Redline MTL plays perfectly with the brass (bushings, syncros, etc) in our older transmissions.
Do you still have the bottle? Double check and post what ratings it has.
L28et starts on 6 cylinders but loses 3 shortly after
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
That is kind of weird. Normally air goes through quick with an electric fuel pump. That was still weird to see different duty cycles on the different channels. Maybe take a quick run through review mode to see if you left anything on. Simultaneous vs alternating shouldn't really change that.