eec564
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Posts posted by eec564
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I got laid from being a drama geek. Involved (free) Patron shots and a breaking a bed that wasn't mine. Or hers.
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I went on vacation to Rio when I was a jr in high school and came home with a simply amazing henna on my leg of a gecko done up in spots. My mom saw it, thought it was real, and nearly flipped out over how cool it was. She was seriously disappointed when the found out it wasn't real. I only wish I had a better picture of it, because I would get it again. Permanent this time.
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Stay away from the 3.9 rear end with the wide ratio transmission. First gear will be nearly useless, and you'll cruise at 3500 on the freeway. The R180 3.54 will be just fine. What kills rear ends on Z cars is wheel spin, lighting up just one wheel spins those spider gears to the moon, and they don't like that. Shock loading on the rear end from clutch dumps isn't good either, but that isn't a huge deal at stock power levels with skilled driving.
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the 7xxxxxxx number you have is just a casting number, and won't do much good. There were three 5 speed transmissions in the Zs. You can view their ratios here http://www.geocities.com/z_design_studio/
See this page for tranny IDs http://www.geocities.com/inlinestroker/ratio.html
If you haven't been here, http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/ , read through everything they have.
-Eric
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That's better than when I worked at kragen and a guy who I helped get rare parts for offered to tattoo me something for free. "Like a spark plug, or something"
Aux, you're evil.
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Great list of sites, but it leaves out a few key ones.
The ever useful Tech Tips at the Atlantic Z Car club:
http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/
The OzDat Engine Design Utility:
http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/enginedesign/
Xenon's plethora of sites. With LOTS of good information, including owners manuals, service manuals, and plenty of other goodies:
Datsun Sport Tek Articles. Especially the Racer Brown on Camshafts article:
http://www.datsport.com/Tek_Menu.html
CarFiche. With microfiche and service manuals:
Nissan Parts Catalog Online. No S30, but it's easy to read fiche:
A metric ton of Z31 links:
http://www.mygen.com/users/dbruce/myz31/Z31_bookmarks.html
Other good reading:
http://www.turbomustangs.com/turbotech/main.htm
http://farnorthracing.com/autocross_secrets.html
And of course, every single sticky right here on HybridZ!
-Eric
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First of all, what car is this on? Be more specific in your posts, we can only guess so much.
That said, read the manual for your car. Not even the service manual, but the owners manual, the one that normally lives in the glove box when you buy the car new. If you don't have it, you can download a copy from Xenon's website, specifically http://www.xenons130.com/reference.html , for the 280ZX manuals.
Also, that little red-square is the warning system on the S130 and Z31 cars. It indicates problems with the car. Push the little button next to the light. It will blink what's wrong. For fluid levels, the sensor may also be bad. In which case you either disconnect the sensor, and loose the warning for that fluid being low, fix the sensor, or find a working one. In any case, RTFM. There's are sections in both the owners manuals and service manuals that cover the system thoroughly.
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Maybe your head is pitted. Or more likely, while flat, the exhaust manifold has a slight amount of torque on it, that is to say it's a bit twisted. If you don't a three-foot straight edge to check things out, a large carpenter's square works surprisingly well, for surprisingly cheap.
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Absolutely check the flatness and evenness of the entire manifold with a good straight edge. Also check the thickness of the exhaust manifold's flange relative to the intake manifold's flange. If the exhaust manifold has had material removed, and the intake has not, the common bolts (namely the cupped washers) may not be applying proper pressure to the exhaust manifold. Stacking gaskets wouldn't help in this case, as you'd be raising both manifolds off the head.
Checker/Schucks/Kragen (and now O'Reilly's) do use Fel Pro gaskets. They aren't known for their quality, and love to make gaskets that fit many years of vehicles by hybridizing the differences between them.
Also, what changed that now you want to elimate our Early-Nathanial-Warning-System?
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Megasquirt (including II) does in fact have programmable DFCO. Drivetrain slack isn't the issue when the jerking is rapid and repeating. tech9 was still using the stock EFI, so he didn't so much have a 'tune' on his car and whatever adjustability there is in the stock system. In his case, timing seemed to be the issue, specifically improperly functioning stock distributor, giving him extra timing at low rpms and screwing with his tune. Tune being all factors being inputted into the management of the engine, stock and limited, or fully programmable.
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It's an awesome swap to make. I have a Lexus LS400, and I've always felt that with either a good set of cams or un-natural aspiration, or both, and proper tuning, that engine would wake up and sing. Even in a fairly stock format, there should be a lot to gain with tuning and optimal shift points. The cost with aftermarket cams is an issue, with four needing to be done, vs one for a L6 or chevy. DOHC V-engines get expensive quick. http://www.lextreme.com has some nice stuff. Cams, superchargers, etc. Not cheap, but not horrid considering the size of the aftermarket.
DocMuffin - once you start your own thread, let us know, we'll be sure to follow along and offer help.
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I suppose one could have it in place so the passenger could adjust ride settings while the car is in a race. Or get the shocks out of the way when converting a vehicle to be amphibious. I know all too well what salt water does to, well, most anything.
Still cool though. One advantage I could see is having shocks which are not compressed at a 1:1 ratio to wheel movement. There may be some slight advantage with that, in setting high and low-speed dampening. Even so, I think an amphibious Z (or even 240SX) would be cooler.
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Don't rush it. As long as it isn't your daily driver, take your time and do it right. It sucks to have to pull apart your work to do it again. It really sucks when you had the time and knowledge to do it right the first time. You'll get it, we're not worried, only watching and egging along.
That sounds like a nice and interesting job. Lots of custom work with something different every day. I didn't know they were gas insulated (nitrogen?) to reduce arcing and extend contact life. Some of the older (40+ years) switching stations have oil filled disconnects. Go and enjoy the change of pace, keep us updated and be sure to let us know if you have any new ideas for the build or just want to bounce some thoughts off of someone.
-Eric
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Yes, it is possible. Yes, it takes custom hoses. They aren't that expensive, any A/C hose repair shop should be able to make them.
I believe ww (Wade) has A/C in his RB26DETT '72. A/C, power windows, Porsche 996 brakes, seats from the same, maybe power steering too. Seriously amazing build. See link for pictures.
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What do you do for a living?
And when you come back, if you need any encouragement to finish up quick, just let us know. We're good at that sort of thing.
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I like the cluster. Maybe it needs a matching speedo that goes higher than 115.
I second that. Although a cheap GPS might be an easier option, used as a speedo those times you plan on topping 115. For those unplanned times, I'm not sure it matters so much. I used one for ages, but now I have rpm/mph in whatever gear memorized, so the gps lives at home most of the time. It does save having to callibrate a new speedo to exact gearing and tire size.
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I seriously doubt you'll be able to make one good distributor from 30+ year old parts. ALL of the breaker plate assemblies break after 15 or so years. I've yet to ever see a good one. Even on low mileage cars the plastic breaks down.
You're better off taking a distributor with very little (if any) shaft play, of the type/year range you want to use, and rebuilding it yourself. A new breaker plate assembly was around 70$ from Nissan last time I checked, and new bushings were only a couple bucks each. It's not that bad to do the rebuild, a bit easier than the AtlanticZ page makes it out to be. It's also nice to see what's stamped on your weights so you'll know exactly how much mechanical advance that distributor is supposed to supply.
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Pull apart that spare dizzy right quick to check if the vacuum advance is still in one piece before you swap it in. Take a good look on the atlanticz page I linked above. You can also search for intake gasket leaks using an unlit propane torch. Position the torch near the suspected leak, and listen or have someone watch for the idle to increase. How steady is your idle? An idle that hunts up and down looking for a stable place is a telltale sign of a vacuum leak.
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The 280ZX also has a breaker plate. They're ALL broken. I replaced mine with some parts I made on a lathe. I didn't have 70$ to get a new one from nissan at the time, but I had access to a lathe. See here:
http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/distributorrebuild/index.html
It's easy to test on the car if you have a reliable vacuum source. Just check for smooth and even movement of the vacuum pot and internal components when applying and releasing vacuum.
New stuff is always good, although old stuff isn't always bad. As long as it works properly. What new stuff do you have/are you planning?
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Yea, but that rpm is 1300 rpm. At least in theory. Old components go out of spec. You can correct most of it by playing with the AFM, and an o2 sensor cleans the mixture up a lot.
Be sure to also check the internals of your distributor. If your vacuum advance gets stuck in the advanced position, you'll have ignition way too early at low rpm and the engine will fire against itself. Search for "Breaker plate".
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I speak from experience. I used to have a big vacuum leak, now I have a small one. My car can still buck, but I spend so little time at light throttle, I hardly notice. Those intake/exhaust gaskets are cheap, but a pain to swap. The biggest problem is broken bolts/studs and warped manifolds.
My main problem is actually exhaust leaks. It does effect the mixture, as flow out of one or two cylinder is disrupted, causing them to fill differently. All the same in the end. Checking your plugs can usually tell you what cylinders to look near.
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That should work. However, megasquirt users switching to EDIS use the schematic found at the bottom of this page.
http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/EDIS.htm
It uses a zener diode to protect the standard diodes rather than resistors and should help isolate noise.
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You wouldn't feel it at idle or under acceleration. You run richer under those conditions and can easily mask the problem. Take a close look at your plugs to see if they all have the exact same color, indicating the mixture is even across the cylinders. You could also try enriching your entire fuel curve by loosening the spring in the AFM very slightly.
Can you get it to happen in neutral? Rev the engine until it's just off the idle TPS contacts and listen/watch under the hood for an intermittent misfire.
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Great swap. Is that a square driveshaft I see?
Tranny locked up on me on the highway...any theories?
in Drivetrain
Posted
No, highly doubtful of a throwout bearing. Most likely a transmission bearing seized. Exactly what kind and how much fluid did you put in the transmission and rear end?