s14280zx

Thanks for everyone's input, I appreciate it very much.

I didn't get to buy the truck, but in May, I bought a 1995 pathfinder in good shape with 105,000 miles on it. I had it for two weeks, and on my way to work (in the dark) The engine pumped all the oil out, and blew the engine. It was supposed to have a 6 month warranty, but it's still setting waiting to be torn down so the warranty people can look and decide whether it will be covered or not. Will the block from the v-6 200sx work ok with the pathfinder top end? If it weren't for bad luck, I wouldn't have any luck.Thanks for the help.

After I wrote my update, I ran into the same problem again. After driving for a while pedal started getting stiff again, not releasing clutch. I took the dampener system off, bent the hard line 180 deg. and hooked it directly into the stainless line. When I changed the mast.cyl. and slave, I bought a copper crush washer from advance auto(universal size). This time I bought a nissan crush washer and sure enough, the nissan one has a smaller inside hole than the universal one. I think that washer was the problem all along. Works great now. Alot better pedal than with the dampener. Not much harder to push in either. Thanks for everyones advice. Hope this helps someone else.

UPDATE: It was a little warmer today (15 deg.), so I decided to try adjusting my clutch pedal to the specs in my chilton. I had to back the cruise switch all the way out, and still couldn't get the pedal to 202mm. I then bled the slave cyl. using a craftsman vacuum bleeder from underneath, with the pedal pushed in. I took it for a long ride, and sat with it running for 30 min. Now it works fine. Not sure if the mas. cy.push rod is longer than old one, ore what the deal was. THANKS FOR ALL THE HELP. Hope this helps someone else out.

Thanks for all your help. Now I can't wait till the weather breaks to start on it. I have everything, except a fuel pump, clutch, cam, gaskets, and a few linkage parts . We've been having sub zero temps lately. Sucks with no garage.

I'll be watching for the write up. Thanks for your help.

Thanks for your advice, I did search for a few hours, but I'm not familiar with the brand names, and didn't find much that was similar to my setup, maybe I'm searching wrong or something. I've learned alot from your suggestions, and appreciate all your help.

How is your low end power? Would a higher lift cam take away some low end power, or wouldn't it make much difference?

Thanks for your input. Are there any other head or block work recommended for my setup? Any advice would be appreciated.

This summer I will be building a L-28 engine for my 79 280zx . My setup consists of: F-54 block,stock flattops,N-47 head, triple weber 40 dcoe's,Fidanza aluminum flywheel, ACT xtss clutch, MSA header, Magna flow muffler, 2-3/4" exhaust. I'm not sure what camshaft I should get. Could anyone recommend any certain brands that they are using, and the size that would be good for my setup? I tried a search, but couldn't find much. Any advice for my setup would be appreciated. THANKS, JEFF

Thanks for your input. What effect does the runner length have as far as powerband,(low end torque, throttle response, etc.)? Is there a preferred length over others, or not enough difference to worry about? I'm just curious, and I've read a few things about my 240sx ka24de engine that says the long runners on the intake manifold make the engine have lots of low torque, but makes it rev to a lower rpm and has less high end power in return. Would the L28 with carbs be effected similarly by the runner length?

I'm building an F-54 block, and a N-47 head for my 79 280zx, and I'm putting triple weber 40mm dcoe's on it. I have a set already, but I've seen on ebay some manifolds have long runners and some have short runners. Are there any advantages between one or the other as far as power? I think mine is a TWM from what I've been told. It seems to have short runners. I appreciate all of your input.

Can you buy a kit to do this, or do you have to fabricate a hardline to do so? I read a thread on NICO and they said that SPL made a kit to eliminate this, but I called them and they said they didn't.

No I didn't bench bleed it. how do you do this? I also had a similar problem with my 79 280zx after changing master,and slave,(it doesn't have a dampener), so you may be right. Which bleeder should I bleed first, the slave, or the dampener? Thanks for everyones' help.

About a year ago I had a local tranny shop install a Fidanza aluminum flywheel, ACT extreme pres. plate, perf. street disc,bearing and bushing. It worked great until recently, but now when I drive to work(30miles) it's fine, but if it sits in the sun, or when I leave work, if I leave it run for 10 min. The pedal gets real stiff, doesn't grab till pedal is out, and when I drive it for 30 min. or more, it starts slipping. I figured out that when it starts slipping, if I adjust the pedal in toward mast. cyl. about 1/2" it works fine. But the next morning it has about 1 and3/4" play in the pedal. I just put the following parts on, but I still have same trouble: Nissan master cyl., Nissan slave cylinder, SPL stainless line, speedbleeders (2). I still have the dampener on. Should I bleed the slave 1st, or the dampener? What else would cause this? Any help would be greatly appreciated. THANK