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mattausten23

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Posts posted by mattausten23

  1. It's been awhile, what happened? lol

    I got mine out if the garage a couple of months ago! I love it, feels so much better! All I did was ise the front strut tubes that came with the coils and had a machine shop make the rear tubes for $100. Saved me $200. Does everything I want them to, but im still not sure on the front strut bar. I was thinking about drilling holes into the camber plates and just bolt a bar between them and the firewall.

  2. I just picked up some Shadow louvers for cheap, but I can't mount them because they're missing the two bottom metal pieces. Im pretty sure these louvers are the ones to slide into the window rubber, I'm just wondering where I can find or if I can find those two bottom mounts? Thanks

    Matt

  3. I would suspect ignition problem: either your timing is way off, your alternator is going bad (the unit itself or some connections), your dizzy is worn out or something is going bad with your spark plugs/wires.

    Start by easy stuff such as spark plug inspection, if they are fouled, change them. Your problem could be that simple. However, you would have to understand why they are fouled afterwards (lot of cold starts or cold start mechanism not ok could be some of the reasons for instance)

    Have you play with ignition wires? are you sure to still have proper firing order?

    Can you move the base of the dizzy by hand? - if timing is off, something is probably loose.

    Is your alternator belt ok with proper tension & shape?

    Check voltage on your alternator? do you see battery voltage going up between engine stopped & running?

    Have you checked for leak around carbs? take a fuel hose, one end to your ear & chase leaks with the other end around the carbs & manifold. You could also try to spray carb cleaner where you could have leaks, it would make the engine run faster if you have a leak (clean a little your intake first if you don't want to have the dirts being sucked).

     

    Regarding gas, my Z sat for 2 years while I was rebuilding my engine & restoring my suspension, it started right up with 2 years old gas. I don't think it should be your focus.

     

    For your exhaust leak, it would make noise, it would vibrate but I doubt it would create the symptoms you're describing.

    Thanks a lot for all the info! It does sound like an ignition problem because it doesn't sound like it's firing correctly.

    I put new NRG spark plug wires on when I first got the car which was about a year ago and the car was running fine then. Today I fixed a leaky line that was going to the carburetor and can't seem to find any more leaks yet.

    It's just weird because the car was running good when I first got it back on the road I believe 3 days ago, and this problem just happend yesterday.

  4. I just started driving my car again after it's been off the road for a couple of months. It's been running good, but today while I was warming the car up, I noticed it sounded different. When I drove it the car was back firing and I felt like it lost a lot of power, I didn't even try to get on it because it didn't feel like it was revving right. I'm thinking maybe I have an exhaust leak since I lowered the car and the exhaust bottoms out sometimes, also I noticed once line is slowly leaking going to one of the carbs. My question is could these things be the problem? I'm thinking if it's an exhaust leak I wouldn't be loosing power right?

  5. The SS flex lines come with female AN fittings. Datsun brake fittings are M10 x 1mm inverted flare. So you need AN to metric adapters. I gave you the part numbers for the -3AN male-to-caliper adapter (pg89) and -3AN male-to-hard line (pg 88) adapter. It’s up to you to chose the appropriate length flex line with -3AN female fittings on each end (pg 87).

     

    Nigel

    Thanks so much Nigel! I see how it works now.

  6. Classic Tube sells various lengths of SS brake lines with female -3AN fittings on each end. All you need to do is choose the length you want and the appropriate fittings to connect to the hard line at the frame and to the caliper. Check out pages 87 - 89 in their catalog.

     

    Hint: you want PN SBH8019 for the caliper and SBH8004 for the frame.

     

    Nigel

     

    Those part #s will give me what is pictured correct? Which S tubing do I get because I notice they come with fittings?

     

    I just got off the phone with them and they have a complete brake line kit for the Z, but it costs $299. I think that is way too much for what I need. I just need the front brake lines that connect to the hard lines and the calipers.

  7. I'm trying to run stain steel brake lines on my 240z. I want the ones that are in the picture I attached, and have seen a lot on the Z store, and ebay but they look different. I want the lines that bolt straight up to the caliper. Any ideas on where I can get the lines like the ones in the picture?

     

    The ones from MSA don't look like they bolt up to the caliper correct? http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/PBC08/24-5121

     

    Sorry for the noob question, I just want to get the right stuff and be able to drive my car again!

    post-17439-034138500 1340769157_thumb.jpg

  8. I'm not able to order the air dam off of that sight :(

     

    I'm now thinking about making my own. I haven't attempted making anything like this before though so I need some help. Are there any materials that I can buy and cut into the shape I want it to be?

     

    Thanks!

    post-17439-066732700 1338432639_thumb.jpg

  9. Grr lucky! I have a few more months before I'm ready to let my car stand on it's own 4 feet :( Let us know what you figure out, I'm certainley interested to know if it is good to have or not.

    Will do! Yea all I'm doing is coilovers/camber plates, brake master cylinder/booster, and RLCAs. It's taking a lot longer than planned but hopefully by the end of next week I'll be done for now :rolleyes:

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