evoog

Installed a fan shroud, I dont know why previous me did not already install one. Apparently I was a cheap skate when doing the cooling system. Anyways its a Z cardepot fan shroud, listed for 12inch fans. I honestly already have 10 inch fans, and they cool my little sr20 quite well. Luckily, the 10 inch fans fit the shroud, the fan itself is smaller then the hole(think a 12" fan would fit perfect) yet the outside covers the hole and has plenty of edge for support(they fit which is what I care about). The shroud itself is very nice, and for the price, hard to beat. Still have to drive her around and see how this changes my temps.

watch gauges/effected items, start shaking the wiring harness behind the dash and near fuse box. if somethings starts/stops working, problem near that area. Ghetto fast way of finding loose connections/grounds.

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Thanks, dig the username

Painted the front end air dam parts, and all put together.

Anytime you upgrade or do work to your car, take the estimated budget, and double it. Also, try to build your vehicle in stages, do certain things, get her running, enjoy her, then onto the next stage. Much nicer to the pocket book, keeps you into the project. As I have discovered with my project, sometimes what you plan on buying isnt correct based off the vehicles setup(springs to soft for the extra weight, or the engine isnt cooling proper with the radiator size) http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/50208-the-ultimate-l28et-guidewhat-you-need-for-350whp/ Build your motor stronger then the boost you plan on running. Then, if you are like the rest of us turbo guys, one day you will start turning up the boost, and thats when you hope the engine you built is strong enough. dont forget a/f gauge boost gauge clutch and flywheel radiator and electric fans air filter fluids agree with rebekahs: go coilovers also would spend some money on tighting up the chassis vs spending money on exterior badges. my 2 cents

Car: 260z with s13 blacktop sr20det -stock t25 -freddy intake -front mount intercooler -megan racing bottom mount exhaust manifold -mines ecu 62 Ignition timing can not be set to 15 btdc. The car runs good at about 25 degrees btdc with the cas in the middle lined up, but when the timing is set to 15btdc(the cas has to be rotated left and almost maxed out), the car runs like crap, no throttle response, and just falls flat on its face. the car has pretty much ran at 25 btdc for a while now, just decided to see if I can dial her in. Pulled the valve cover and mechanical timing looks ok to me, the crank is set to 0(second mark from the left), the intake cam lobe for cylinder 1 is <, the exhaust cam lobe for cylinder one is like >, the dowels are at 10 o clock and 12 o clock, the cas is lined up with the dot. The car does enter into ignition timing mode and its idle is set to 800. Dont know really what to do. Dont know if the ecu has something to do with this, or what, searching for any ideas. Thought maybe the cams are a tooth off, but seems like rotating the cams one tooth would set the timing off????

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Finished the vintage air system. The vintage air only has the heater running, as no ac will be installed until summer. I am very impressed with the system, easy to wire, not to hard to install, and puts out a fair amount of airflow for its size. Just need a cold day to test it, cause apparently cali is undergoing a heat wave again...ugh

looks bomb diggity

tranny tunnel getting work in

The dash is fully flocked, and drying, seems to take 48 hours to fully set. The vintage air unit is mocked in place, one bracket welded in, one bracket finished just not welded, and one more to go. Dashboard & flocking. The flocking parts are hard to get a quality photo of them, they actually seem to absorb most of the light. Work progressing on the ac unit, running a little behind schedule at this point.

carbon fiber yummy

Bellow is the specs on the build, keep updating as life progresses, will do individual posts as work is completed. Car 1974 early production Datsun 260z Orange with SR20det from s13 chassis miles-70k approximately engine miles-10k approximately Instagram https://www.instagram.com/artofevan/ Future plans -ms3 -top mount turbo -finish air dam for v-mount -nrg steering wheel -corbeau seats -install a/f gauge -replace front and rear windows -replace rear defrost -brakes...seriously, need them -flares, spoiler, wheels, ugh, need go fast parts Current specs interior -Speed hunt tach 4", mechanical speedo, oil gauge, coolant temp, and fuel gauge all back lite blue -prosport 52mm mechanical boost gauge blue/white -interior mounted boost controller -custom dash w/ steel frame and aluminum coverings -avh 5600 pioneer radio -MSA rear mount speaker box -full MSA individual piece carpet kit w/ new sound deadening mat -"Z" front floor mats -hydraulic ebrake(stock ebrake still present and functional) -interior mounted rear brake bias valve -custom interior fuse panel, relay box, and pretty much every wire of electrical has been replaced -taylor rear mount battery box w/ redtop optima battery -all door and window seals replaced -vintage air 2 mini ac unit w/ defrost, four 2.75in dash outputs, two defrost outputs(utilizes stock defrost outputs) -full flocked dash and center console Suspension -full urethane bushings front and rear -urethane mustache bar -MSA sway bars front 1", and rear 7/8" -Motorsport street top hat camber kit front and rear -Eibach progressive lowering springs -KYB shocks Exterior -HID classic headlight kit from dapper lighting v1 -MSA front and rear stealth side marker kit -Rear bumper modified for flush fitment Steering -urethane steering coupler -quick steer knuckles -bump steer spacers for 15" wheels -Urethane rack bushings Fuel -Aeromotive stealth 15 gallon fuel cell with built in pump and fuel sending unit mounted in center rear under body -dual fuel cell vent filters -Aeromotive ss series inline fuel filter -AEM inline fuel regulator w/ gauge -New 3/8" hard fuel line for return and feed line -Full AN fittings with black braided line to/from fuel rail and to and from tank -Circuit sport gold side feed fuel rail -stock injectors w/ new seals Diff/transmission -2004 r180 subaru lsd diff, new lsd, new ring and pinion, full rebuild w/ 260z input flange -beta motor sports stub axles -240z halfshafts w/ new u joints -ACT ns1-hdg6 clutch kit, heavy duty race sprung 6 pad -ACT flywheel 10.6lbs -Circuit sports v2 solid shifter kit -new clutch slave & master cylinder, hard line, and steel braided line -driveshaft is a 260z driveshaft, shortened, balanced, and had a sr20det input flange welded on by a diff shop cooling -3 row aluminum radiator -dual 10" curved electric fans with interior on/off push button -Z car depot aluminum fan shroud -s14 coolant outlet pipe -dif temperature sensor water neck adapter bung -Nizmo thermostat Oil -S14 oil pickup -greddy drift oil pan w/ increased capacity and internal baffles -circuit sport oil filter relocation kit -Tomei oil block adapter -billet engine oil cap -neochrome oil catch can w/ black an lines and fittings on valve cover Engine -Purchased as a long block fully rebuilt and blue printed w/ stock t25 -mines 62 stage 3 ecu w/ raised limiter, and tuned for mild bolt ons at 13-16psi -ebay cheapy interior mounted boost controller currently set at 12psi -3 inch full exhaust straight pipe -Megan racing downpipe modified -Megan racing turbo output -new sensors, belt, cas sensor, starter, ignitor chip, wiring, hoses(either black or orange) -freddy intake manifold -megan racing exhaust manifold bottom mount -HKS ssqv version 4 blow off valve -cx racing 3" front mount intercooler with 2.5" hoses & pipes -valve cover w/ an fittings for oil catch can, orange, shaved stock letters to just say "win" -custom spike valve cover nuts -TiTek carbon fiber spark plug cover -mckinney motorsports engine and transmission mount kit with poly mounts -V mount