evoog

https://hyllest.wordpress.com/2014/02/25/240z-dash-restoration/ Here are some ideas/options -fill the gaps yourself and place a dash cover on it(they sell kits to fill dash cracks/holes) -restore the dash yourself like that gangster of a guy did in the link I provided -fill the gaps, and just flock the dash(actually comes out nice) -spend 2k and buy a already restored dash, or send yours out -or just build a custom dash(what I did, kinda wanted a double din radio anyways) http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/105742-slammed260z-from-holland/ some pics of his flocked dash, maybe two or three posts down

mine.

Pretty sure driveshaft shops can just order the flange from the driveshaft to a r180, and weld it onto your existing driveshaft. May be wrong, but my driveshaft guy had catalogs full of them

They wore in a odd pattern, which caused incorrect angles between the clutches, which caused issues with the clutches engaging, hence the chatter Thanks man, it was a rought go, but the car gods smiled upon me! Thanks for your input on my problem too!

So I wanted to update this for peoples further searches My differential clutch chatter was present no matter what type of fluid was installed, some fluids made it more pronounced then others, but always present, especially warm. I removed the rear diff, measured the break away torque to be under 15 ft lbs, found backlash, run out, and gear pattern in spec, removed the lsd unit, and broke it down. The clutches measured .3mm under spec, had edges, and were glazed. A new stock sti lsd unit was installed, break away torque increased to 25-35ft lbs(no fluid), the clutches were broken in following kaaz's recommendations, and the chatter is gone. Life is all good now, and the car actually performs like she should.

bringing old post back from the dead. check this site out guys, itll help http://www.frostfighter.com/index.htm

After many months of searching(no previous posts came to a conclusion for my issue), and many failed attempts at repairs, I have come for community advice(especially living on the west coast with el nino coming). Thanks in advance for reading this. Car: 260z early 74 production Problem: A water leak is present on both the drivers and passenger doors, the water can be seen running down the front side of the door panel onto the carpet(see pic). The leak is coming from the doors and is not from the front windshield, it appears to be coming from the area where the door frame seal and the door to fender seal meet. Seals: -the door frame seal, and fender seal have been replaced w/ msa seals -the lower door has a tight fitment against the seal -chrome window run channel had a slight gap of fitment to the door frame seal at the top, and wasnt much pressure on the seal(see pictures) -door frame seal to the door to fender seal had a slight gap that seemed like water could run through.(see picture) Attempted repair -both doors have been adjusted, multiple times with no change in leak -the body was "adjusted with a hammer" to gain better fitment of the door frame seal and the chrome window run channel -rubber was added, then removed, then added, at the point where the door to fender seal meet the door frame seal. This was in an attempt to provide better sealing, no success Current thinking: Have read many issues with the msa weatherstripping, but usually read about how thick it is. It does appear to be thick enough for the lower part of the door, but not where the chrome window run channel meets the door frame seal. It was replaced over a year ago, and I seem to remember the msa door seal being thinner then my stock seals were. Dont think my window run channel is bent, but kinda ruling this out due to bi lateral water leaks in the same place. The kit came with a 280z sash seal, which is not indicated for my year, but may possibly fix my issue(hell cant hurt). -is there a difference between the early 260z chrome window run channel vs the 75-78 280z chrome window run channel? -Does the sash seal attach to the top of the chrome window run channel, or does it attach to the body(I have been told both)? -what is the correct direction and placement of the sash seal? Any other ideas are more then welcome, any pictures of the 280z window run channel or the sash seal are also welcomed.

rebekahsZ--- I expected the clsd to be aggressive and have some noise, but this one shouldnt be locking up like this around the corner. The shop was supposed to measure, inspect, and reinstall the clutches to factory spec, but sadly I think they may have over tightened them. Which explains the way over aggressive locking, but they are too egotistical to realize they made a mistake. I would love to rebuild the diff myself, but I do not have the special tools associated with the adjustments for this diff, nor the time due to school and work. What makes life even worst, my DD blew up a month after this all happened....fml right? oh and the side seals are leaking, its not coming from the diff vent tube, already cleaned it, drove it, and reinspected. TimZ--Others run this same swap with the same axles and don't seem to have an issue, which leads me to think the angles should be ok, but im not 100 percent on that one. The car is running pretty much stock suspension besides poly bushings and some lowering springs, but otherwise the suspension is stock. I haven't really found anywhere indicating that the left and right half shafts are different lengths for a 240 or 260z, but I could be wrong. What is odd though, Subaru half shafts are different lengths, and when I measured it out, there was a slight difference from diff to wheel hub, but not that much. That brings me back to other people running the same set up and not having this issue...so...again....fml right? NewZed---So far, every time my car goes to a shop, it comes back jacked. This shop was very reputable though, and had everything from classic trans, muscle cars, 4x4s, ect present in the shop when I came by. There work did look to be clean as heck, and they said they specialized in this diff, were most other shops wouldn't even touch the sucker. So it was a risk that ended up bending me over and stealing my wallet. I should have just taken it to the Subaru dealership for repair, but they were even hesitant over the phone.

malibud---that sounds like a rough go, ill pull the adapters out again and check johnc---i had good luck with the fluid on my 06 sti and the shop added some friction modifier at its last visit with no real change. but at this point, changing the fluid out wouldn't harm anything, I also want to inspect the fluid coming out for debris. Sounds like redline is the next fluid i will try thanks for the responses guys,

Heres some pictures of it resting on the ground

Hey guys, need some help with a little issue I have been encountering, and havent really come across a answer in the search section SPECS early 260 w/ sr20det light to mild mods(stock turbo) suby 2004 3.9 lsd rebuilt 240z axles wolf creek racing axle adapters MY BACKGROUND degree in automotive science six years working for Benz as a master tech ISSUE: popping noise & vehicle hops in tight turning reverse, forward motion turning, or taking off(normal load driving) breaking u joints HISTORY About seven months ago I decided it was time to replace the stock 260z diff after blowing up its guts, After much research I picked up a 04 suby lsd off ebay used, had the diff rebuilt at known shop(seals , pinion and ring gear replaced), and installed it into my 260z using wolf creek racing axle adapters and stock 240z half shafts with new u joints. The diff was filled with motul 90pa, fluid specifically made for that diff. After being proud of my swap, it was off to testing the diff out and performed the break in procedures including the 20 or so mile drive with letting the diff cool to harden the metal. Everything seemed ok, but after 50 miles I started to notice a clunking/popping noise coming from the rear end & and the whole car would hop(during clunking noise) as if you were driving with a flat tire. This would happen when reversing down hill from my drive way and turning, or making forward turns from a stop, or when starting to move under low/normal load, or making large 180 degree freeway off ramps turns. When I inspected the diff I found the side seals leaking oil, and wondered if their was something wrong with the rebuild. I took the car back to the diff shop, who actually started yelling at me and swearing when I told them the car wasn't right and I wanted them to check it out. I asked them to inspect not just the diff, but the drivetrain for binding. Before the rebuild the shop was told to spend extra attention to the clutch's, due to the cost of replacing clutches vs just picking up a new diff. Talking with the diff shop about the problem, I asked again about the clutches, turns out they did not torque test the clutches or test the clutch adjustment, just visually looked at them and demand them ok. After a week at the shop, it was time to pick up the car. the shop said they drove the car all over and said the noise was due to no lsd additive and the wrong fluid. I showed him the suby recommended fluids and the motul site indicating that it wasn't needed, and he basically told me to GTFO and that he was perfect. Leaving the shop, heading home, within 20 miles, the diff starting popping around the corner and I lost the passenger side half shaft at the inner U-joint. The car ended up sitting for a month or two due to my schooling and work demands keeping me out of the garage. Last week I finally found time to swap the axle with a spare one I had laying around. The car seemed to drive ok for about 15 Miles, until I reversed out of a parking space making a corner....then the infamous popping noise came back. You can spin the tires free hand in the air, and you feel light resistance then a little moderate then light again, but I think thats just from the brakes(doesnt look like the axles causing it) MY THOUGHTS: I don't know if the clutches are causing the wheels to lock up and cause this issue, but that seems kinda unlikely. I am leaning more to an issue with the axles coming out of the diff at to much of a angle causing them to bind when rotating. The adapters seem to stick out a little far for my liking, but I have not seen a photo of them installed on another car to see if this distance is normal. However other people run this set up and haven't mentioned this concern. I would love to swap the axles out to cv joints, but have not found a shop that builds custom axles( I want the axle to have a suby inner to eliminate the adapters and reduce the angle), and honestly I'm pretty over spending a crap ton of money on this thing(I'm a paramedic student, poor as hell lol). I am also reluctant to spend over a grand on axles, knowing that this may not fix my issue....sooo hard to justify that one just yet. CALL TO ARMS!: This whole situation sucks, I spent days swapping the motor, and building the car, and now this issue, ugh. I'm ready to kick this car to the curb, but before my last straw breaks, I am humbly requesting assistance. Any ideas would help, any experience with this swap, any pictures of adapters installed, ect. I am located in the bay area and the only real rear end shop near me happens to be the one that told me to GTFO. I can try and get pictures or a video over the next few days if that will help anyone whos interested in this challenge.

I want to play!!!! this is my money pit

Still working on her

Still under construction