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HybridZ

1 tuff z

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Posts posted by 1 tuff z

  1. Alain, Wizard Cooling in Buffalo?  If so I had Scott [owner] build the rad for my LS swap 10 years ago [had to bring him an old Z rad for the mounting dimensions] and it's been great.  He asked how I would drive it and expected horsepower and added a few tweaks at my request.  I must say the rad is very well build and don't anticipate replacement, ever...

  2. I too have the Skillard splitter and working on fitting it to my 73.  I've been in contact with Ben for awhile providing feedback [as I believe he wasn't initially aware of the 240-260-280 differences] and to make it more challenging I have a Kaminari air dam which is deeper and wider.  Instead of purchasing longer bolts to reach the radiator lower support holes I'm going to make some stand off brackets which should provide greater stability, strength and ease of mounting [found the long bolts were not so easy to thread in].  Some modification to the turnbuckle locations and the splitter isn't quite wide enough for the Kaminari so Ben has agreed to make me some 'extensions' which I'll either bolt or weld on - haven't decided yet.  Anyway, ChumpCar racing, my 72 Fairlady Z restoration, work, family, vacation and HPDE's all seem to be taking time away from the splitter...

    Not to beat a dead horse but...... As I continue to examine the core support height, I believe the 280's support sits lower than the 240. My core support is darn near the same height as the bottom of my turn signal lenses. If you drop a 280 radiator into a 240, it will sit lower than the 240 core support as well. Sorry if I'm jacking your thread..... Your install and car look great/inspiring, just trying to clarify attempted use of that splitter on a 240Z. Thanks and good luck at the track. Jim

  3. Keith, I have the same spoiler, in fiberglass.  Mine had to be clearanced on both sides to avoid quarter panel contact.  Instead of sealer I used a dense foam tape [like what is used to seal a truck cap to the bed] along the front and back edge, leaving a gap for the water to drain at the low point where the lock is.  I then purchased some large diameter washers as my backing plates.  A bit challenging to hold the washer in place and get the nut started but got it done.  I've noticed greater straight line stability at Watkins Glen but I only see a bit over 145 there, not the speeds that you'll experience.

  4. Just pulled my Fairlady out of winter hibernation.  This past winter I mated a 100k mile L28 stock block to an E31 head with mild port & polish work, new valve guides, 280z valves & an Isky 290/490 regrind cam.  Triple 45 DCOE 152 [spain] Webers that are pretty new [from Evilc] and a header/exhaust from Sean Dezart in France.

     

    I welded in a bung for a wide band O2 sensor but haven't plumbed the gauge yet.

     

    specs for my triples

    145 Mains

    155 air correction

    36 chokes

    F16 emulsion tubes

    45 accelerator pump jets 

    55F8 idle jets

    4.50 auxillary venturis

     

    Today while checking the above specs [hope I have ID'd correctly] I checked the idle mixture adjustment screws.  From L>R they were; 2.5, 2.25, 2.75, 2.75, 2.25, 2.25 turns out.  I only have a few miles on it but looking at the header coloring i have more blue in the middle cylinders than outboard.  Think that's lean?  When idling it sounds like it slightly missing [new plugs], pops when cruising along and pops under deceleration.  It really pulls nicely and sounds awesome under mid to full throttle, once it climbs above 3k rpm's.  My timing light is broken so I'm unable to check that and until I finish the wide band info is lacking.  Currently it prefers rapid but not stomp on it throttle input and if I provide too little input begins to die.  Ahh, the fun of sorting it all!

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