Just Jim

V8260: Don't even concern yourself with the smog issue and recording the engine change. Your car doesn't require a smog check anyway.The cops aren't going to care what is under the hood. Gollum and Mr Insane: If you swapped the engines in your cars did you record this with the local BAR office?Wouldn't want any illegals running around. Mr Insane: Why bother getting the engine swap "legalized" and then going home and yanking off the smog stuff? Kinda defeats the pupose,eh?

Arguing with a pundit is like rolling around in the mud with a pig,soon you figure out the pig likes it. But,I'm going to respond again anyway. One of the main reasons California car enthusiasts choose a pre '75 vehicle is to avoid the smog issues. I seriously doubt the guy who just swapped a 350 into a '74 Vega is going to run down to the local BAR office to document it. I have yet to hear of anybody local getting pulled over for the sole reason to see if an illegal engine swap existed.Ricer kids with late model Honda Civics might be pulled over for street racing and then get cited for illegal mods of the non exempt post '75 vehicle but a guy driving a big block powered '72 Camaro with a blower sticking out of the hood isn't going to get cited for an engine swap. When my swap of an '83 Ford 302 into a '72 240z is completed and up and running the last thing I'm going to do is run down to the local BAR office or DMV and have it documented. Not required and kinda foolish in my opinion.

If you can't figure out how to assemble that Holley you have pictured then good luck getting the F.I to work.It would be much easier to go carb than F.I. There's no California smog for pre '75 cars so that shouldn't be a concern.

The 302 I'm rebuilding is almost ready to go back in the car.My custom made crossmember with mounts and modified stock trans crossmember appear to work out fine.Hopefully the C4 trans I rebuilt will move the car. My problem is what to do with the old 2.4 motor and 4 speed. What's the best way get rid of the old drive train and maybe make a few $$$?

The helmet for $49 is "Lot number 46092" and the 15% off a single item coupon has a barcode with 41976119 under it. Both items were in a flyer I received in the mail with prices good thru 7-24-06. I guess I could tell them I'm a student also to get a further discount but my grey mustache ain't gonna fool them.The 15% off coupon is for in store purchases only.

The latest Harbor Freight flyer has a $79 auto-darkening helmet on sale for $49 and a coupon for another 15% off. Guess I better get one at that price. Seems like if you buy some small thing from them they send you flyers/catalogs for years after , just like JC Whitney used to.

My helmet is solar powered with no back up batteries so there's nothing to change. Today I left it out in the sun for 2 hours or so and it worked good after that. Usually it sits in a box in the garage and I leave it out in the daylight for awhile to charge it up before using. Maybe it just needs to be left in the sun longer prior to use? It came with a 2 year warranty but that was almost 5 years ago.

You might want to get a R200 diff and the required mustache bar to mount it in your '72. If you find a car with usable parts try to get what you can because there is a good chance the car won't be there next time you go. My local Pic A Part had a 50% off sale last Memorial Day weekend, wonder if there will be another sale for 4th of July?

Thanks for the input guys.I guess it's time to go to Harbor Freight for a new helmet then.Better wait until my vision comes back completely first though.

My Uvex solar powered auto darkening helmet is acting up.Instead of getting dark within 1/25000 of the arch striking it is taking .5 seconds or more. Not good for the eyes. The helmet wasn't cheap when bought a few years back.I might expect this from a cheap Harbor Freight model. Maybe this is why Jesse James doesn't use one? The exhaust getting welded consists of some 2.5 inch connector pipes from the block hugger headers to a pair of DynoMax Bullet mufflers. It sounds loud even with the motor not running.Looks like it needs a Y pipe going back to a single 3 inch muffler mounted in the stock location.

Thanks,Jon. My original search of just this section didn't turn up as much info as a search of the entire forum did.I still would like to know if it is possible to tack the support bars to the main hoop then remove it for final welding before reinstalling it. Also wondering if those Harbor Freight tube notchers are any good?

I'm getting ready to order a S&W 8point roll bar kit for my '72 240. Has anybody sucessfully installed one?It seems like the straight cross bar that goes behind the seats will need to have some bends added to allow the seat to go back further.Can the rear support bars that attach to the main hoop and go to the rear of the car can be welded to the main hoop prior to installing it in to the car.Sure would make things easier.

So then if the 240SX rear with a finned cover is a VLSD then I'll pass and continue my search for a CLSD from a '87-'89 300ZXT. Info from searching seems to indicate that the CLSD R200 isn't as common as the VLSD,correct?

During my trip through the local pull it yourself yard this morning I came across some 240SX's with what appeared to be short nosed R200's with a finned rear cover. Are these LSD rear ends? If so are they CLSD or VLSD and can the internals be used in a long nose R200? I did a search but didn't come up with any firm info.

The 302 swap into my '72 240Z is coming along with few problems. I welded up a crossmember with motor mount brackets to use early Mustang or Falcon V8 mounts. I have a '62 Falcon with a 351W and the motor mounts were bought for that but never installed so they ended up on the Datsun. I modified the stock trans crossmember to fit a standard Ford C4 mount,the kind with two studs . The steering shaft didn't have to be cut to clear the Summit brand shorty street rod headers.I used a Fox body oil pan which sits behind the stock crossmember far enough to get the front drain plug out. I need a good source to get the Neapco R200 driveshaft adapter and some place with reasonable prices for normal stuff like suspension rubber and rear hatch emblems. Got any suggestions?

The longer shaft supposed to be on the driver side. If you put it on the passenger side then that's why you had the problem. I suggest you to check if the driver side shaft is snapped in the differential. The splined axle shaft on the drivers side is indeed about 1/2 inch shorter than the passenger side making the whole assembly with CV joints 1/2 inch longer.I needed another drivers side assembly but the self service yard didn't have any. I watched the guy at the non self serve yard pull mine from the drivers side of a 280zx so I know it wasn't switched with the passenger side. Like I said ,after swapping the passenger side splined part that snaps into the R200 onto the drivers side assembly things were fine with no binding on either side.

The ZX Turbo and non turbo CV shafts are apparently the same thing. I just put some ZX non Turbo CV shafts and 25 spline companion flanges in my 240Z.The parts came out of a '83 280ZX at my local Pic A Part yard.The passenger side CV assembly was too long so I swapped out the passenger side splined part that goes into the diff to a shorter drivers side CV assembly and things are fine.So it actually takes two drivers sides and one passenger side to do the swap.

Those are some decent times for your first time out. MT Drag Radials aren't the best tire for hooking up. I plan to race my 302 Ford 240Z at Irwindale. I currently race my Ford Powered Morris Minor there. http://bowtie0069.fotki.com/4202006_irwindale_pix/img_1603.html?cmd=links_to_photo&pid=fgstgtqkgddfsq

The axles and companion flanges came from a 280zxt at Pic A Part. I'm not using MM adapters. I'm just trying to verify that the drivers side axle is really shorter than the passenger side. If so, all I need is another drivers side axle with my passenger side splined part that goes into the R200.

In preparation for the Ford V8 swap in my 240 Z ,I just swapped in a R200 with 280ZXT axles. Both sides bind when the suspension is fully extended but with the axles at ride height the drivers side is smooth but the passenger side seems to bind a little. The drivers side axle is supposed to be about a half inch shorter than the passenger side. If I swap the differential end of the passenger side axle onto a shorter drivers side axle assembly will this fix the binding? I know MM sells adapters for this but I'd rather not go that route. Is there a "cage" that can be reversed in the CV joint to effectively shorten the 280ZXT axle?I did a search on this and came up empty.

Thanks for the replies. My Morris has some Ford Motorsports shorty headers with 1 5/8" primaries. They had to be modified to fit but look like they might work on the 240. If the steering shaft hits the header that is fixed by cutting the shaft and adding a 5/8" u joint with a 5/8" heim joint for support.At least that is the info I found on previous posts. I'll post my u joint vs cv joint half shaft questions on the driveline forum.E Bay supplied me with a good 4.11 R200 which should hold up to the 302. The stock u joint axles I'm not sure of.

I want to swap a 302 into my newly aquired '72 240Z. I did a seach and couldn't come up with any header recommendations.I think tight tuck street rod shorties might work but is there an off the shelf set of long tubes which might fit? I have a 302 powered '58 Morris Minor and a 351W in my '62 Falcon so the 240Z is going to get some extra parts from both.