Pilgrim

To update and provide valid link to the "how to remove the dash".... http://www.zcar.com/forum/10-70-83-tech-discussion-forum/306057-how-remove-280zx-dashboard.html

Pulling the dash in a 280 is easy - no more than a 90-minute job after the first time. There are only 8 screws holding it in after you pull the radio console. Not sure why you had problems. I've documented the process online a number of times. See: http://www.zcar.com/forum/10-70-83-tech-discussion-forum/306057-how-remove-280zx-dashboard.html It's easy to pull the steering wheel and take a look at the combination switch. But if nothing obvious is visible, I'd get another combination switch and replace it. And "muscling" something like a dash in is the single fastest way to damage parts and create problems for yourself. With time, we tend to learn that.

I'm guessing that you'll need to jumper a couple of wires to make the electrical circuit think the transmission is in Neutral or Park so that the starter will engage. In addition, you'll need to find the wire that turns on the reverse lights.

I'm in the same place you are - but with an '83 ZX Turbo. I spent months getting the dang manifolds loose, then gave up and pulled the head with manifolds still attached. The answer is...the end connectors were studs in the first place. Everything but the last connector on each end is a bolt, but those are studs. They often break off, which is why I pulled the head - I'm not crazy enough to think I can free-drill those studs out when they've been stuck in there for 30 years. The good news is that a Z specialist I am working with says that normally, replacement connectors do not break off...probably has something to do with the metal the studs were made with. Take the head to a machine shop and have them drill out the studs, heli-coil if needed, then (my advice) re-mount the manifolds and re-install them all as one unit. I'm going to rent a cherry picker for the re-install, as there's no way I can hold everything in place.

I'll keep an eye on it, thanks.

Which switch? Rheostat for the blower? (The AC switch which mounts inside the control unit was replaced with the wiring and it tested OK.) It's not a bad thought - I have replaced it once, a couple of years ago. It tests OK but intermittent problems can be like that.

There's good news...not necessarily a permanent fix, but at least a temporary positive note. Last week I dug into the ZX and checked wiring, and darned if I didn't find a blown fuse. It was the 20A fuse on the bottom right corner of the fusebox; I didn't check the label on the slot, but I replaced the fuse and my blower fan and AC compressor both work!! I drove it around town and on the highway for more than 1/2 hour and everything continued to work. Do I think the problem is solved? Not really. I think I fixed a symptom, but there's a reason the fuse blew - and that reason is the real cause. However, I'll live with this for the time being. I suspect the test will come when the weather warms up, as the original problem occurred when days were hot. It's possible that when I replaced the wiring harness for the blower fan and AC control unit that I blew the fuse - and if so, I'll be a happy guy. But after six months of down time, pulling the dash and replacing wiring and vacuum hoses, I'm damn glad to have it driveable again!!

Definitely worth looking at! I'll check it and let you know how it did.

Unfortunately no, the car is still sitting while I tend to other issues. It has been down for at least three months, which is a bummer. Good call on the fuse...it's one of those hidden "gotchas" which can be hard to find. I know about it and have checked it, but I'll re-check. Right now I have no fan, no AC compressor engagement...nothing. Not the result I was hoping for. I need to spend some time with the wiring diagrams and see where these circuits travel. Before installing the new rheostat and AC switch I tested...the AC switch inside the climate control box tested good for contact closure, and the rheostat tests good as per the test procedure in the shop manual (it's also accessible by removing the center AC vent, unplugging the harness from it, and using a multimeter to check function.) I believe the problem is elsewhere in the wiring, but I'm still stumped as to where. The fact that I have (1) no fan, and (2) no AC compressor engagement indicates to me that there are two aspects to the problem. Initially when I lost fan function, the AC still engaged - but neither system works now.

Good suggestion to check the fan speed rheostat - but I replaced it, and checked the contacts as well using the process in the factory manual. I don't believe it's the problem.

The amplifier is an excellent idea, - I have a spare and tried swapping. Still has the problem. Dang. Best candidate according to FSM and tests is the blower relay, a 4-pin relay mounted on the underside of the blower housing next to the amplifier. Need to replace it; called Courtesy Nissan but they had trouble identifying it and no call back yet. I'll have to rattle their cage Tuesday.

I checked all wiring diagrams - none show a thermal sensor for the manual AC system...so that's not it. It's also not the AC fuse in the fusebox, because....I need to correct an error. This does NOT happen only when AC is on - it happens regardless of AC. All I have to do is turn the fan up and it will shut off within 5 minutes of run time.

I have the manual AC system and a factory service manual...wasn't aware there was a thermal switch near the glove box. Will check manual. Every fuse relating to AC and fan has been removed, tested and reinserted - twice. Not bad fuse contact...but will jiggle things and see if the problem occurs or disappears. Remember that the AC works properly and the compressor engages, it's only the dashboard blower fan that shuts off. I can tell from the load on the motor and the idle speed that the AC compressor is still engaging.

I'm having a problem with my 1983 280ZX Turbo. The blower works fine on vent and heat, but after just a few minutes (sometimes only 2 or 3) with the AC on, the blower fan stops working. (EDIT: With more testing, I learned this happens regardless of whether AC is on - it happens even if just the fan is running!) The AC compressor still runs, but the dashboard blower fan which delivers the cooled air inside the car stops. Turning the AC off doesn't bring the fan back to life; it will only start working again after the car has sat for a few hours. This has happened 4 or 5 times. No fuses have ever blown, including the stealth glass tube fuse that's mounted under the blower motor. After sitting for a few hours, the fan works again. But hop into the car when it's hot and crank up the AC - and the fan runs for a couple of a minutes, then shuts off. If the car sits for an afternoon or overnight, the fan works again. The way this reasons out to me, it seems like running the fan must make some component associated with the blower fan heat up and fail. When it cools off, the fan runs again. Does this diagnosis sound likely to you? If so, what component do you suggest I check? I was thinking of the amplifier mounted under the blower, but it is used all the time - it operates both with and without AC.

I sure wouldn't do that, for a simple reason: tint means less light transmission. Less light transmission means you're harder to see; that means you have more chance of getting hit by another vehicle. Anything which makes you less visible to other vehicles increases your danger. To me, tint on any lights, anywhere, is a bad idea because it increases the risk to you.

You'll call it something else when the clutch pedal sticks to the floor in the middle of heavy traffic and you can't get it to come up and engage the clutch. Been there, wish I had'na done that.

Slave cylinders are notorious for drawing moisture and going bad. My guess is that's what's wrong. Try bleeding it. If that solves it, replace the slave cylinder, and when the cylinder is disconnected from the bottom of the hydraulic line, run some denatured alcohol through the circuit by pouring it through the reservoir and letting it leak out. Then install the slave cylinder and refill the clutch circuit with DOT 5 (silicone) brake fluid. The DOT 5 fluid won't draw moisture that corrodes the slave cylinder. This greatly extends the service life of the slave cylinder. (BTDT) I used to go through a slave cylinder every 4-5 years in my 280ZX when living in Texas humidity. I came up with the DOT 5 idea and haven't had to change the slave cylinder again.

Paint fades over time with exposure to sun, and silver paint also has a specific problem - as the clear coat over the metallic particles in it wears, the particles come in contact with air and oxidize. This creates the nasty dull look of many silver cars. Red paint is notorious for having some of the most severe fading problems. Touch-ups in a specific area are only going to be as effective as the difference between the paint you apply and the weathering of the paint on the car. This is part of the art of painting. About all you can do is check the paint code on your car, get a matching color, clean the target area and try applying some of the touch-up paint with a very small artist's brush. Once you see how that looks, you can decide whether the "cure" is worse than the problem.

You can most likely find a replacement on Ebay - although it's more likely to be the retractor mechanism than the seat belt itself. Might be repairable.

I agree that twin fans with a gap where the water pump pulley sticks out look like the best way to go. I also like the simple mounting frame that Zmanco fabricated - I agree that using cable ties through the radiator seems to have considerable potential for damage through eventual metal fatigue caused by vibration and by the startip torque of the fan. Hmmm...having dual fans would probably reduce the torque factor, too.

I think that given the cracks in the existing fan, I'm going to spend just a few dollars right now on replacement fan blades, and take my time searching for the best fit in an electric replacement. Probably go electric within the next year unless I keep coming up with better things to do with my $$. My measurements tell me that I have a maximum of 4.5" between radiator and the front of the water pump pulley with the blades and clutch removed. Radiator width looks like 24-25", and height of the cooling fin surface appears to be about 16". If anyone can help me with more accurate measurements of the ZX radiator, please do so - the shroud and things get in the way when trying to measure. Here's the car:

Zmanco, that is a really nice job of elegantly simple but sturdy fabrication!! You may have given me a great model to use.

Thanks, that's helpful. I'm more and more inclined to go electric, but I need to measure the room available between the rad. and front of the water pump pulley to make sure that I can fit an appropriate fan in there. The side-by-side fans are generally a lot more expensive, but if it doesn't fit...well, it doesn't fit. I also JUST had the alternator rebuilt at a cost of more than $100, and I think I'll check the amp rating on that ZXT alternator. I'd prefer not to have to replace a brand-new rebuild......

Just FWIW...I did search the forums, but didn't find any threads debating the stock vs. electric fan. I haven't posted here much, but I've been with the IZCC and on that Z-car list since about 1996.

The Autozone fan sounds interesting. Is anyone using a 16" electric? If so, how well does it work?