RisingSun

I just got one recently from Blackdragon. It was on B/O when I ordered it too, and it took about 4 weeks. They must only get them in small quantities. The brand was Nabco from Japan. Works great! Honestly, I've never had good luck with "rebuilt" units from any of the automotive stores...they all malfunctioned after a short amount of time. If you can wait on it, that's the way I would go.

Hi, I sprung a leak that won't go away and need some ideas please. I have a 280Z modified except the stock gas tank. The outlet barb on the gas tank is about 5/8 OD and it goes to Russell Pro Classic 8-AN hose clamped to the nipple on the tank side, then to the proper Russell hose end fitting to my external fuel filter and Walbro pump. Problem is the fuel keeps leaking from the nipple after about 8 months of reliable operation and no matter how many times I add new hose, it still leaks! I realize that the Pro Classic is not meant to be clamped over a hose barb, but it is the only way to transition from the old tank to the new fittings???? any ideas/advice?? Fuel Cell at this point is not feasible....trying to get the Z to ZdayZ on Wednesday or Thursday! -Dana

I am looking for a fuel rail for a P90/L28 made to accept O-ring injectors (14mm RC injectors). 6-AN hose end fittings must be able to adapt. I need this fast and am hoping someone has one laying around they never used and will sell.

I've been watching your progress since the start....the feeling you have starting her up for a day at the track must be up there as a major cornerstone! I'm a bit jealous, my stroker BRE is taking forever, but I still hope to bring it to ZDayZ. I still remember making a promise to bring it to GA when it's on the road and we can compare notes. Here's a pic of it's current state, so as you can see I have a miracle to work this spring: Again, Congrats and great job! I want to hear more stories when your classic Z spanks some late models on the track! -Dana

That's a great LUMP LUMP LUMP! Good throttle response, too! Any chance you can park yourself and that camera back by the tailpipe and have your wife rev the throttle a bit? I'm very jealous of you right now...still waiting for my car at the paintshop. You live in Georgia, right? Are you planning on bringing that beast to Z DayZ this spring? (Fontana Village, NC at the end of May) Again, congrats, that sounds awesome.

Thanks, I'm really trying to do everything correct here, so the engine is reliable and lasts a long time. It's a 3.1 Stroker, and all the precautions were taken: sonic tested block, entire assembly balanced along with flywheel and pulley, ceramic coated bearings and pistons, ported head, and the intake is a handbuilt custom which looks good but won't know about the function until I get the engine running with the SDS system. I'm trying to get this to breath the best it can for max power within the budget.

Sure will contact you when I take my stroker to ATL. I am too lazy to do a website like you, and probably I am also a more boring writer, but I want you to know that the whole time I was reading I was nodding my head in understanding for exactly what you are going through! Now if I can just get my Z back into the garage so I can stick all the parts on... I'll be checking back to hear the exhaust note, I'm very curious how your stroker will sound with a Borla!

I think that is the answer to this. Finding a compression fitting and reducing it from there sounds like the best solution. Thanks to everybody who put in their two cents. When I have it worked out, I will post some pictures.

bradyzq, if I used the valve cover vent I would still have the same problem of fitting it to the huge 1" diameter crankcase metal tube extruding from the block. jmortensen, yes, the most descriptive you can be is appreciated since I was not raised around engines and am learning just about everything I am doing as I go.

Where can I find more information on a welded fitting and where can I go to get them? That sounds like a good idea.

Very nice work. I will be coming up on 2 years myself with my Stroker build. I live near Charlotte, so when I'm done I will be driving it to Atlanta from time to time. (roadworthy in the spring....hopefully) I noticed where you mounted your coil packs, very interesting choice. I decided to mount mine where the battery was. Like you, I thought it cleans it up much better to have the coil on the same side as the spark. Where did you put the battery? Since my Z is still at the paintshop, they are building out the passenger toolbox to fit my Optima battery. I think it will work well. I also envy your Arizona Z suspension setup....that is Mack Daddy! Don't forget about the Video, and please let me know some details of the exhaust: custom?

Well, I don't really want to use a K&N type filter at the crankcase. I would rather trap any acidy, oily crud instead of blowing it all over the enginebay.

That was actually one of my only ideas, but I knew there are people out there who may have put other ideas into practice. All the car pieces are in boxes while it's getting the makeover at the bodyshop, and I was in the garage looking for that molded rubber hose, but it doesn't want to be found right now. Thanks for the idea Jon.

Does anyone here have a crankcase catchcan for their L24/26/28 where you retained the stock 1" pipe that came out of the block? I'm trying to figure out a way to attach a vent tube from the metal stock crankcase vent piping that sticks out of the L28 block and step it down to my tiny hose barb on my crankcase catchcan, and I'm looking for anybody who has made a catchcan to post pictures of how they did it.

I talked to the guy that found the pistons for me....he couldn't remember the source. Yeah, the block and head were resurfaced for a good gasket seal.

I've got those KA24 pistons that I bought from 1 Fast Z, but didn't come with enough pin clips and he never sent them to me. I never installed them in my engine build. I recently found some pin clips at my local Nissan dealer that look good, but I am still a couple short. They are ITM brand. I can send you some pictures and if you like what you see, make me an offer. This is what I went with instead. They are ceramic coated, but I will have to find out from the builder what brand they are. If you like how they look I will find out where he got them and pass that info on to you.

I know this is late in the game, I was searching for something else and came upon this post. In regards to your research of a gasket, I had trouble finding one to suit my stroker project, and when I was building it I hadn't seen or heard of the Kameari product line yet. The only one I could find was the Nismo gasket, but it was too thick and would have effected the CR for my build. The problem for me was to find a gasket that allowed the overbore for my 3.1 AND cover the positive deck height that the 240 rods created with the pistons. The head had been milled slightly to make a good gasket surface (along with the block) so it also changed slightly the overall volume, and I was left with a deck height of -.020. I even contacted Cometic Gasket but they talked me out of paying them for custom gaskets after I had already shipped them the Nismo for a template because they can only make solid copper gaskets, which for a street car they told me would not last. It had something to do with the constant heating and cooling cycles over time would eventually cause it to leak, versus a race engine that would probably change their gaskets routinely. At least they were good honest guys there, they could have just done what I asked and let me deal with the problems down the road. What I ended up doing was buying the Nismo gasket and took out a layer to make it a little thinner so it ended up to be almost .060. I wish Kameari offered those nice cusomizable gaskets when I was losing sleep over this. I have the Data Sheet I can post or email to you, but I will have to try to scan it onto the computer first. I can do that tomorrow if you are interested. The specs are all in inches but you can convert it easily. Basically, I have the N42 block, P90 head, flat top pistons (ceramic coated), which the spec sheet spit out a 10.461:1 static compression ratio after all the measurments were made. Fooling with the gasket thickness is a nice way to manipulate the CR when all your other parts have been purchased.

Thank you Nigel, that sufficiently puts my worry to rest. Now, on to my next worry....

Great idea to buy a new diesel oilpump shaft!

I have removed my distributor and capped the opening in favor of a crank sensed ECU system (L28, bored + stroked, NA). I know there are others here that have done the same thing: Did anyone modify the oil pump shaft that used to connect it's other end to the distributor? As I look at it I wonder if it will cause vibration issues because the shaft extends past the bushing in the front cover and no longer has the bottom end of the distributor to anchor it. What have you guys done? Has anyone here just left it as-is, with trouble-free operation??

I looked at all the ebay auctions. They all bolt up to the stock AFM, which I don't have anymore. My 60mm throttlebody has a TPS on it, and I have switched to SDS which uses a Manifold Air Pressure sensor mounted to the rear of the intake plenum, so no more AFM. Anyone else have similar setup? I need a long intake tube that will fit a 60mm opening at the TB, that can run through the opening at the radiator made for the stock setup.

Hi everyone, I own a 76 280Z. I have a 60mm TB I bought from Pallnet a year ago (I think it is from a 240SX), which is mated to a custom intake, mounted to the L28 that has custom parts and SDS EMF-6 fuel and spark. Soon I will be tuning the engine on an engine dyno so it will be setup before putting it back in the car. What have you guys used for Cold Air Intake? I'm looking for something like a AEM system. Should I buy one for the 1992 240SX and hope the length is good?