Z for XC

I have been a long time stalker on the forms. Commented in a few posts, nothing major. The reason I post today is because I bought a project car from another member on this form, and the car was very cut up, and very stripped. One of the areas that needs total rebuilding is the fuel system. In the 78 280z the previous owner cut the spare tire well out and sectioned a square into the floor like one would for a fuel cell. However his intent was to run a gas tank from a chevy truck (I have no idea what model ruck this tank is from, I know it doesn't look like an S10 tank.) Point being, I am hopefully looking for a more direct approach to replacing the gas tank. I see myself with many options. I could return it to factory, spare wheel well and all, which probably wouldn't be a poor decision since the car should see most of its time as a DD. Or I was thinking... Since the floor will be flat, why not run a 280zx tank? I have a 280zx and its a larger tank. What I would really like to do, but doesn't know if I can find an affordable solution to, is to find a gas tank that I could mount and run the filler head up behind the license plate and have a folding plate bracket so I can hide the gas cap. I will be making custom fiberglass panels behind the strut towers for a sound system, so I know I can hide it. Any ideas? I am completely open to everything. I am leaning towards an in tank pump and would like to find something that is suitable (doesn't choke on hard corners)for all those poor car decisions you make being a 21 year old. The drive train is aiming towards a 355, ~350-400 hp at crank, and either a th350 or a WC 5 speed (if I can get my hands on one!) I am not at home to take pictures of the car, or to measure things. I am a college student. I am just hoping to solidify some plans on fuel delivery so I can get it running this summer! Thanks everyone.

Yea, I am still considering my options with what I have. It's hard to try and dream up game plans when you are a few hundred miles away from your car @zsteelman- If I had started with a car with front end damage I might consider the same, but the last pictures you saw are what I started with. I might end up going that route if I see it easier.

see the attachment for what I was thinking. tinted lights and all cahrge.bmp

Once the battery is there, check as many of the electrical as you can. Also, interior can be very expensive to restore and replace, so get an idea of the condition it is currently is and your goals with it. Ask about accident history. Another place to check for rust is the spare tire well. Rather then thinking the floors are solid, tap them with something like the butt end of a hammer. where it feels sort of soft is very likely rust through. You often can't guage the ammount of rush on the floor from underneath the car. Basically, look over everything you would want to be in good condition. Hope that helps a little.

excellent contribution Thanks

I am not certain if I am going to actually sell it. Chances are 50% right now depending on how my glass experience goes. Plus the fact of having a one of a kind is cool. I will definately be keeping the mold in case I get people who back into me or something. You could expect to know if I have these availible for sale by the end of Auguest. If they do go for sale, it will be a limmited offer and only a few productions.

Yea I knew it would. I'm looking about a $2000 set up for a top end, and probably another 1000 when I upgrade the rods and pistons. and then more if I decide to bore... I was just hoping there was something I could do now before I rebuild the engine next year for like $400 just to give it a little more spirit

Sorry to resurect a thread, but I thought that posting in thhis thread rather then starting a new one would be better descision. I am the new owner of this 280z, yea the one with the fiberglass on the front=p So It's going to be a month before I get to do any actual work on it. This summer (since I am a college student) I am going to put an interior in it, drop a 400 sbc in it, and finish off the bumper and misc as necesary. Overall plans for rthe car is a mile long list, but next year I am going to do more significant work I hope, like manual trans swap, power steering, and new power plant with obx rear end. So right now, where I need the most help, would be the fiberglass. If you followed the thread you will notice that MasterMechanic never made a negative cast from the mold. currently, the fiberglass is attached to the car via self tapping screws into the fender. What would I like to do? well I'd like to take the mold, add round foglights in it, bevel that lip back. Going to put an aluminum lip spliter from the radiator support forward to add stregnth to the bumper. I was thinking about maybe adding some brake vents as well. So I could really use some information on the types of glass to use, and the steps I should go through to do this. My dad and I are both fairly good glassers, but we have never made a cast of something. Thanks in advance, you guys have been an excellent source of information.

Well I am still looking for options as to testing the block before I go back out friday. I am going to have my dad bring him compression checker so we can test it, and i'll double check all earlier signs I checked. Thanks forr the help thus far and still looking forward to other's opinions. Maybe someone has some suggestions as to a real simple cheap way to get some more horses out of the engine without having to do much, just to get by this next year before I do some real work.

I haven't bought the engine yet. should I try to convince him to do this with me? other options?

Possibly this? http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/291591-grey-motor-oil.html I don't know, i'll make sure to ask the guy more questions about the oil color. Although, I doubt he is teribbly informed, doubt he even ever checked the oil in it. Honestly all he has to tell me is he got it, ended up not really using it, started it up every now and then, and now he is tired of it and cant get rid of it.

it's grey, like the stone colored. It is almost grey primer color. He said the whole truck was completelly serviced before he got it about 6 years ago. It had been sitting for about 5 years with a start every now and then. Since he has owned the suburban, he never changed the oil, plugs, wires, coolant- nothing. He said the grey was from the air moisture. Last month he scraped the body off the chassis, since the interior was shot, most glass was bad, and couldn't sell it. The engine sounds great, doesn't have any odd vibrations, and fired right up with a little gas poured into the carb, whereas it remained running just fine. The oil has only one consistency, grey. It isn't watery in some parts and chalky in others as far as I can tell. Just oil, grey colored.

Well yea the ignition system was still hooked up, but what I was meaning is I had to splice it back together since the ignition switch was no longer present. Wish I had a picture availible of the oil color, but it looked like sculpting clay. It still seemed like the right consistency, not watery. There wasn't any sort of build up on the oil cap or the dip stick. I called the guy while he was at work and then followed him home from work, so I don't think he or one of his 3 daughters messed with the engine to make it appear better then it was. This is just a first time encounter for me with greyed oil. Everything seemed to check out fine. The engine is only $250 I pretty much have between now and friday to make a final descision as to whether or not I want it when I go to pull it (myself from the frame and trany) I get the complete engine, AC compressor/condensor, radiator, long tube headers, and any ammount of exaust I want with the manifolds. It's currently 3 inch dual, but nothing special, just rusty tube. It just doesn't seem like a head gasket or broken jacket because normally there is milky build up on the cap and dipstick from what I've seen. However, please educate me further if this isn't the case.

And wouldn't the engine have had some sort of indicaator, like a miss or a slosh in one of the cylinders when running it? I ran it for 10 minutes from idle to about 4500 RPM several times and it acted like any good solid 350 i've ever looked at.

The whole system was there except ignition and heater core. and it was still completely full of fluid. the collor didn't get any worrse or better after running it for 10 minutes