LineC
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Posts posted by LineC
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What no beer cans in the picture yet? Looks good, what kind of gasket are you using for the head?
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Well I just went through the garage and found what I am going to call HybridZ auction merchandise for ebay. Hopefully Sun I am going to put it all on ebay and after paypal fees and shipping gets paid I am gonna donate the rest to this site.
Really just crap I will never use and probaly would toss when I get fed up looking at it one day, but should bring a little money.
3 AFM's
2 Broken Dizzies
Bunch of Misc FI parts.
280ZXT Comp
Still looking through boxes....
I agree with TimZ as the "service" this board provides should be looked at like a subscription. I know I would definately miss all the knowledge base of this site if it was gone. (ahh have to resort to ZDriver)
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I fried my fusable links to i ve got a 83 280zx can you give me specifics on your fix including what wire goes where and part no on fuse block? It melted my enclosuer as well. Me thinks it was the stero and electic fan that did it in
Here is a link that has a lot of information for what you want to do. Remeber though the install page is for a 280z. I used it as a basis for my friends car which was a 280zx but I lost the wiring diagram we used and we actually added another 2 fuse oulet to go along with it for Megasquirt and a stereo amp fuse.
http://www.hammondsplains.com/s30upgrades/maxifuse/index.htm
Here is another one (thank you atlanticz)
http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fusiblelinks/index.html
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I am in the same situation Big Phil. After all my research I decided to go MS1 PCB3.0 since it has the integrated flyback for my injectors so I don't have to go drop down resistors, and the ease of hooking my dizzy up. (I am not doing the EDIS trigger)
Relay board I think is a wise investment so you don't burn anything up. The stimulator is the only thing I didn't get since I bought mine assemblied and was already tested, also a buddy on mine has a stim if I really need to borrow it.
What I am also doing while I install the MS is installing the Maxi Fuse's to replace my burnt up fusible links. Now I have an extra one for my MS also and hopefully I can keep everything a little more organized in my engine bay.
Don't forget your WB now
)) keep me updated I haven't gotten to install my setup yet, (garage is still being built) -
Looking for an experienced person in the area (Hampton VA) to repair some Borg T5's. I have 3 of the damn things laying around
and this is one area I am not good in.. Any leads or help appreciated! -
What track, was it the one in Richmond??? They have one it Waynesboro too..
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Whats that thing off of a destroyer?
Hell your going to have to have a strut mounted just to go up to the turbo!!!
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Ok finally getting the bathroom upstairs finished and I think I will have some time for my engine build.
New things have happened since I left off. I acquired all of this 2 weeks ago for a good price. (long story)
1. Turbo Engine, P90 w/HKS 2mm & Grand National Turbo, WEBER big throat TB, ECU, COMPLETE
2. Turbo Engine, P90 w/HKS 2mm (recently rebuilt)
3. Borg Warner T5 w/driveshaft
4. Borg Warner T5 w/driveshaft
5. Borg Warner T5 (broken dog ears)
6. MSA front and rear sway bars for a 280z
7. 3.9 R200
8. Gear Reduction Starter
9. 3 Core radiator
10. Misc small items 3 AFM's, 3 Turbo Dizzy's, 2 NA Dizzy w/modules, 2 sets of turbo injectors with holders
So now I have plenty of parts and plan on selling off extras to help offset the cost of this build. Goal is still 300 to 350hp max.
I would like to reuse the 2mmHKS gasket but still want around 8:1 cr. I want to steer away from shaving also. I think I am on the verge of needing forged flat-tops.
Also still trying to locate a HY35 for less then $300 but still has some life on it. Damn these things are going for a lot on ebay lately.
I have read a lot of good posts on using stock flat tops on turbo motors but the advice seems shaky. I am looking to find out if the ring lands on the flat tops and the dished are the same depth? Or if I should not even think about using stock flat tops with 8:1 compression and trying to hit 350hp. Will the flat tops hinder more then help with the P90 design?
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There is really no way around bondo if your splicing in quarter panels or removing rust where you have to weld in patches. $60,000 dollar show cars have body in them honestly.
But to answer your ? I live in VA and have no idea were the good body shops are. I did work in a GM body shop for awhile and to be honest probaly your best bet is to go to an individual.... most places don't want to do jobs like that if they have insurance work coming in and also you would end up with a dozen different people working on the car if it gets sent to a shop.
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Just followed up on a lead on a turbo engine I was buying for my swap. Well long story short the seller had all sorts of Z parts.
I ended up leaving his house with 2 complete F54, P90 turbo engines, both had HKS 2mm headgaskets one had the Weber big throat and one P90 head had a mild port on it. Both engines had the exhaust manny but only one had a turbo on it. Turbo though was a Grand National turbo with a bored out exhaust housing to fit to the L28 exhaust manny.
Then when I thought I was all loaded up he asks if I need a tranny. I said sure what ya got. Walked out back of the garage and he has 3 BW T5's with two driveshafts that fit. He said two work fine one has broke dog ears. Quickly picked them up and loaded tranny's into the truck.
Seller was real nice and was into racing his 280z about 10 years ago and said he has no need for the stuff and to take it all. So following up on one turbo engine netted me:
1. Turbo Engine, P90 w/HKS 2mm & Grand National Turbo, WEBER big throat TB, ECU, COMPLETE
2. Turbo Engine, P90 w/HKS 2mm (recently rebuilt)
3. Borg Warner T5 w/driveshaft
4. Borg Warner T5 w/driveshaft
5. Borg Warner T5
6. MSA front and rear sway bars
7. 3.9 R200
8. Gear Reduction Starter
9. 3 Core radiator
10. Misc small items 3 AFM's, 3 Turbo Dizzy's, 2 NA Dizzy w/modules, Turbo injectors with holders
Keep an eye out in the for sale section I will be selling off a lot of this to help pay for my turbo swap...
Had to blurt this out since I was tired of hearing my wife saying this was my dumbest buy of the year....
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I got that thing in my Bobcat skidder in my chicken coop.
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Well over the last two days I have researched about 12 hours on Megasquirt and I think I have read 85% of the threads concerning this (works been slow and they got a T1 connection) and am very confident on the install and soldering and I think I am getting a lot of the tuning procedures down. Plus now I have a use for my stoneage laptop and CLio PDA if I go this route.
I will definately have to spring for a WB o2 with this set up. Looks like everyone likes Megasquirt I with pcb2.2. Why is that? Price difference doesn't look like to much of an issue between pcb 2.2 and pcb3.0. Has MSnS-E came out for Megasquirt II yet? I think I am budgeting my money a lot better now and not skimping on the important stuff and spending to much on perfectly fine stuff. Still up in the air about a couple things but I have never been 100% sure on any of my engine builds.
I think my next decision which luckly I don't have to make real soon is turbo. I want to be boosting around 2400 rpm but the HY35 looks like it kicks in a lot later on most peoples set up. Anyone watching this thread have strong feelings about low rpm boost vs 3600rpm boosting. Is it really that big of a deal?
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I have really been fighting myself about going Megasquirt, but I think I'll really need to swap over for what I want. I think my biggest fear is tuning since my prior tuning skills was turning a distributer. I am sure though this is a fear everyone has had and in no time I'll be off and tuning if I go that route.
On to the cam the more I think about it I like the idea of the NA cam after reading your posts Pyro. It won't be a huge deal since I got both cams laying around but if the NA cam is closer then the stock turbo cam to the duration on the MSA stage one why not?
About the n42 against the p90. I keep hearing for boosting you want the p90 since its shaped better. I know a lot of people have used the n42 but I do not want to be experiencing knock. I will not be boosting to the max on whatever the limits of my setup will be. Maybe the head is a mute point if I get the car tuned properly.
Ohh ya budget is just for motor I still have money set aside for other things that need to be done like clutch, and such. I have already seen what 12 second runs will do to the stock clutch
. Once again thanks for all the advice, this build will be based on information from mainly people I talk to and information from searching that I squirrel away. I am appreciate that you guys and this board are all sharing it. I'm trying to stay away from untested ideas or being a test pig to my own ideas,,,,, damn I sound chickenshit don't I?
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Adding a thicker head gasket is NOT how to decrease the combution chamber size. Why would you want to use a thicker head gasket then slave the head? The net effect is the same combustion chamber size. Like taking two step forward and two steps back.
No no I don't want to shave and use a thicker gasket I wanted to do one or the other. I was concerned that a 91mm bore gasket would not work with a 87mm pistons. But I didn't know and that was my question.
In my thinking (which might be way off) I do not want to run higher then 8:1 CR. I don't want to go wideband o2 but would I have to if I start boosting a engine around 8:3 or 8:5. Here is my plan so far but it is all subject to change, as better ideas and more searching comes in.
What I have laying in boxes and such
F54 not cut or bored yet, stock pistons
P90 not shaved
60mm 240sx
440CC injectors with 14mm o-ring rail
z31 ECU retuned (not yet though) with z32 MAF
Walbro fuel pump
stock exhaust manifold
What I am lacking
Holset HY35 turbo or p-trim t04e (I want to use Holset)
New pistons (haven't decided on CR yet though)
Aeromotive FPR
Good intercooler
Decent BOV
I guess first thing I should ask is my plan on target for 300 to 350hp. I want it to be reliable and an all around fun car to drive. I plan on using a manual two stage boost control and not have the higher limit set to a piston melting limit, (already did that with my twin turbo Stealth)
I will make the exhaust and downpipe after engine is in. I do not want to use the stock pistons that are in the block and have no problem boring if needed. I want to stay away from shaving the head but if I have to I will. I think my goals will let me use cast pistons or am I wrong? This is not a daily driver and I have given myself a budget of $2500 for the engine work and parts. So far I am out $300 for the parts I have so that still leaves me with what I think is plenty for machine work and the rest of my parts, (if I am over budget it wouldn't be the first time). I do not want to port and polish
since I think it will be a waste of money for the power I am looking to get. Any advice on changes to my setup I honestly would greatly appreciate. Ohh and if you are a v8 fan that is not good advice to me, I am keeping the L28
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Been collecting parts for awhile now and have a quick question on this particular part of my build. I am building for 300 to 350hp max, and would also like to raise CR on my engine to as close to 8:1 as possible. I have saved for a fairly decent budget on this build but am not interested in anything past 350hp.
Alright here's my question, in order to get my 8:1 CR I "think" this will work stock heights on my block and P90 head. +1mm flat tops (87mm bore) and a 2mm HKS headgasket. I guess my biggest dilemma is the HKS gasket is 91mm bore and my engine will be 87mm bore. Is this something to be concerned about? Should I try to get 8:1 CR by shaving and shimming instead of the HKS gasket?
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Thanks thats what I was looking for I really didn't want to go JWT I heard everything they do is conservative and runs rich. Now onto the Junkyard to find a programmable ECU.
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Maybe your right, I might take a look at doing it myself. I am sure there are maps to be shared for different setups after I get the EPROM burner around the board.
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Well hows this for my first post, I tried to make it tantilizing and without any loopholes for people to scream "use the search function"
I have read all the pro's and con's about retuning z31 ecu's and doing this swap over MS, best one I read I think is if you are considering the Z31 swap you are just 6months from going full blown standalone.
But I am wondering who is still doing this that does good work, (do not want JWT). I am mainly concerned about programing around the knock sensor and fuel temp sensor and not have the ECU run in secondary mode? I would like the maps mirrored to eliminate this from happening.
Hopefully someone on the board still does this service, I am in the process of gathering parts and have decided against MS and want to go z31 but am making sure the resources are still available and what something like this would cost to retune the z31 ecu. Current retune I would need is for 470cc injectors with t3/t4 turbo is all I can think of. I am building to be around 300hp to 350hp not looking for anything higher.
LineC
1980 280ZX
Raced my wife in her Camry---she won, time for new motor!
)) keep me updated I haven't gotten to install my setup yet, (garage is still being built)
and this is one area I am not good in.. Any leads or help appreciated!
I will definately have to spring for a WB o2 with this set up. Looks like everyone likes Megasquirt I with pcb2.2. Why is that? Price difference doesn't look like to much of an issue between pcb 2.2 and pcb3.0. Has MSnS-E came out for Megasquirt II yet? 
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since I think it will be a waste of money for the power I am looking to get. 
to dish or not to dish
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
Metal head gasket or studs really isn't a trade off. If I was going all out on studs I would still use the metal HG. Hell I would probaly o-ring the thing honestly. I know bolt stretch might blow out a stock gasket but once there is a real high compression inside the CC it's gonna ruin the stock HG even with studs.