RB30-ZED

The roller cell fuel pumps, like the Bosch unit most peaple use will push fuel all day, but they dont like to suck fuel, so if you arn't using a pre pump in the tank you must keep the main pump low and close to the tank. Most factory set ups that didnt use a prepump used a half inch hose to cut restriction

If you are using a flexable hose from the cell to the filler, you should run a earth from the tank to the filler to prevent the possibility of static electricity between the filler and the fuel pump or jerry can, as factory rubber filler hoses have a high carbon content to lessen the risk of sparks. Steven

Just got your URL to work ( you left the bracket on the end ), and had a look, on my Australian 73 i had one only hose from the thermostat housing to the front of the manifold, it then flows through the base of both manifolds and out through the small thermostat around the back of the head and joins in to the heater hose back to the inlet of the radiator bottom hose fitting on the timing case. Steven

The water flow through the intake manifold is a very misunderstood subject. Firstly it provides the bypass system to ciurculat coolant through the block and head durring warm up. As the thermostat at the front of the cyclinder head is in the closed position the water pump draws water from the back of the inlet manifold through a small normally open thermostat ( most peaple dont even know its there ,just looks like a connecter for the hose )and also from the rear of the block at the heater hose outlet. This system firstly provides a even warm up of the block and head, preventing localised hot spots around the combustion chambers and exhaust ports, until the main thermostat starts to open. The second function is the small thermostst in the water outlet from the back of the manifold, as this is normally open, water can flow through the manifold warming it up as fast as possible the prevent fuel condencing in the cold manifold, allowing you to put the choke in faster and giving you a more constant idle temp. Now as the motor gets to operating temperature this secondary thermostat closes, as the block and manifold contain enough heat to stop fuel condencing in the manifold. Steven

Hi Stony, depending on the brand of alternator you have, you will have two terminals ( apart from the B+ and earth ) one may be markd L for light and this needs a ignition only power source, i ran mine from a relay operated from the ignition ( the relay stops any thing funny happening with feed back to the ignition system ), the other maybe marked S for sencing and should go back to the battery positive, but the starter motor positive will be fine. Steven

Sorry there is no easy way out with this job. If i was going to do it again, id convert the whole belt system over one single 5 or 6PK Belt to drive the lot. Perhapes use all the pullies and tenioner from some thing else and machine a crank pulley to suit.Email me if you like ill send you a drive photo. Good luck. Steven

The throttle body should be installed ahead of the super charger, if you place the throttle after the super charger you then must dump the high air volume that is produced when the throttle is closed or part closed. Having said that i found that a vacuum operated bypass valve that would bypass the air from the outlet of the super charger back to the inlet side would drop inlet temp at idle from just over 100 deg celcius back down to 40 deg celcius. This bypass only operated at idle and light throttle. Steven

Sorry link didnt work try http://www.kingsprings.com/prosportframe.html Steven

This is an Austrilian spring site , look under the Pro Sport section, it has a fantastic range, and the Aust dollar if half the US. The single rate 250mm springs are around $65 each Aust. www.kingsprings.com.au Steven

Hi doug, send me an email and ill return some pic's. My email arkij60@ozemail.com.au

Hi Mat, im running 300lbs front and 350lbs rear, sounds a bit stiff but works fine. I use the car for street and hill climbs and run a RB30DE so its around the standard weight. Steven

Hi there Doug, as Stonie mentioned, ive used VT commadore front disc,s and calipers ( disc,s are 296mm ) the strut needs to have to new holes drilled inbored of the old ones, and the disc fits over the front of the hub( about 3mm is machined of the out side edge of the hub). The offset is spot on and the parts are cheap, about $280 for two disc,s and the two calipers. the parts are all new and come from HSV as they upgrade commadores. My rear brakes consist of EF-EL XR8 discs ( 299mm in diameter and 10.5mm thick DB133) these are used with R31 skyline or pintara calipers with the mouting brackets modified to suit the biger disc, the offset is correct and it will just ( only just ) fit in a 15 inch rim. Have pics if you want to see, hope this helps. Steven

Hi Graham, my 73 240 had the limiting valve, and i did shim the spring up to give me more rear braking, this is done by removing the fitting at the bottom of the valve and placing a couple of brass washers between the spring and the fitting. But if its less rear your after you will have to fit a softer spring.