RB30-ZED

So you say the pump works when you switch the ignition on and runs up to 40psi, and drops to zero as you crank the engine. Have you checked the pump is still getting battery voltage as you crank it?

There are so many words that are different between Australia and the USA, like dizzy for distributor, boot for trunk, bonnet for hood and offcourse we dont say Zee we say Zed. We also never had a 240 Zed with only 4 gears ( most of our 5 speeds had the 2.9 first close ratio box ) or emission controls.But while our exchange rate will double your money , why not come over and have a look. Steven

But Australian Maxima's are all VG30 not L-series. Steve

No it will not bolt straight in , but its not far off. The RB mounts need to be reworked and this also allows you to shift the engine back a bit. The RB box must be used, unless you wish to just change the front case of the 260 box for the front of the RB box to retain the 2.9:1 first gear that we have in Australia, this requires two RB front gear box bearings to be fitted to the 260 shafts and a very small amount of grinding. You must also cut and shut a sump to suit. Take a look at the photos of my RB30 http://au.photos.yahoo.com/arkij60 Have fun Steve

Once you have the crankshaft pulley torqued up it will be held tight between the gear and the pulley. Steven

Take a look at the engine combo program at www.zcarclub.com.au under technical section for piston and head, compression ratio combinations. Steven

Well people will tell you that nissan never made one, but they did use a RB30DE in a very limited number of Japanise R31 skylines. But the easiest way to get one is to build one. In Australia all our R31 skylines had RB30E motors and a deal was done for General Motors Holden (G.M.H.)Australia to use the same engine in the Holden Commadore VL, which is a 4 door family sedan. Holden also had Nissan supply a RB30ET for the VL turbo. The only other source of RB30's that i know of is the Nissan Patrol 4WD. The RB25DE head is a direct replacement for the RB30 head except if it has Variable Valve timing.With the VVT RB25 head you have to run a external oil feed to the front of the head to supply presure to the VVT actuator. All water gallaries line up and the bore size is the same 86mm for the RB30 and RB25 engines (85mm stroke for the RB30).The cam belt tenioner needs to be shifted and a new section of belt cover made up to fill in the 40mm's or so gap that the taller block adds. I used the RB25 N/A pistons which lift the compression ratio to 10.5:1. The RB30 block is dirt cheap here in Australia, as the single cam head that was fitted use to crack, so there are lots of blocks sitting around in yards. Steve

I agree with Jumbo 240, i too found the rear strut brace, made a bigger differance than the front. The biggest improvment i found was with a brace between the chassis just behind the supports for the tie bars (compression rods).This improved braking stability to a large degree. Steve

Have you had a look on WWW.se-r.net Steven

You say that the fuel pump is running with the ignition on and the engine not running, well it will run for a second or two when you first turn the ignition on, but it should stop. The most likely cause of this and your black smoke problem is the air flow meter sticking in a open position ( mostly caused by a back fire) which will make the computor think it is consuming more air and give you more fuel, hense the black smoke. This will also run your pump all the time as the computor thinks the engine is running, if the AFM was ok you could turn the ignition on and open the flap with a screw driver and hear the pump turn on and off as you open and close it. Steve

It seams that you guys are talking about two different things. If you are replacing the rod with its piston assembly and foot valve, then yes you need to use the correct amount and grade of oil, but if you are just replacing it with a strut insert, then you should fill the housing with coolant before inserting the cartridge to transfer the heat. Dont use oil as it will not transfer heat as well and also if it leaks out the gland nut it will look as if the insert has failed.

I run a 25mm square brace across the chassis rails from just behind the TC rod mounts. Fits nicely in front of the gear box and made a huge differance to stopping the car in a straight line

Well at least they are both Nissan But the RB does look like it should be there.

Yes my old motor was a L28 P90 f54 EFI, and the super charger was a toyota SC14 from the 2liter six cylinder. It ran around 7 psi boost. It had a 60mm throttle body and a vacuum operated bypass. It had fantastic low rpm flexability, mid range was good, but top end was not so good. The inlet temps were high and should have been intercooled, but for $350 Australian its a good buy. But fitting it is not an easy job.

Yes Zpeed you can ask I just like a good strong N/A motor, even my old L28 surprised a couple of turbos, and at my local hIll climb it was faster than Standard Skyline GTS-T 2.5"s and WRX,s. Not that i dislike turbos, but any one can go fast in a straight line, there is more to a good car than outright power. Steve

Thanks Tony, not to much left to do, door mirror, windscreen trim ect and some time on the dyno to tune the fuel and ignition maps, i have the idle control set up and the low speed fuel. Tomorrow im going to look at a set of 2002 Subaru WRX black leather seats, but i think that they may be a bit on the wide side then save my pennies for some Pannasport FS16 16x7's with the grey centres Steve

Thanks for the replys, im glad other Zed people like it, its been two years off the road can't wait to get back in it. Steve

Dont know if you would want to use the standard piston with the turbo, but the RB30 block with RB25 N/A head and RB30 N/A pistons gives around 8.3:1. Sorry to say ive lost all the little bits of paper with the measurements, but the RB25 has a combustion volume of 63cc. I did make a new set of engine mounts and made a sump using the front section of a Nissan Patrol 4WD with the front of the skyline sump moved back to a short section of skiline rear sump with no leaks so far.

Hi Daniel, yes its a brand new factory RB30 bottom end and the RB25 non turbo head with variable valve timing, it also runs the RB25 N/A pistons (same 86mm bore) which brings the comp ratio in at 10.5:1. The hard parts of the converion was fitting the dual interrupter rings in to the back of the harmonic balancer to run the Delco coil Pack and getting the engine to sit low enough to close the bonnet, or hood for you peaple in the north

Sorry Tim i'll go back and add some women The supercharger was a toyota sc14 from the six cylinder two litre toyota, it has a out put of 1400cc per rev. I ran it at 8psi. It had fantastic bottom end and midrange, but was a bit flat at the top end due to inlet temp and pumping losses. 0-60 in 6.5sec's in first or 7sec's taking off in second gear, Very strong bottom end power. Steve

Just put some photos up of my newly installed RB30DE,which has still not been out on the road yet, but sounds fantastic. I'm using Delco EFI reprogramed with Kalmaker software, which runs three dual coils and also controls the variable valve timing. Let me know what you think. Steve http://au.photos.yahoo.com/arkij60

Just put some photos up of my newly installed RB30DE,which has still not been out on the road yet, but sounds fantastic. I'm using Delco EFI reprogramed with Kalmaker software, which runs three dual coils and also controls the variable valve timing. Let me know what you think. Steve http://au.photos.yahoo.com/arkij60

I see you posted this on April Fools Day, so maybe i shouldnt reply. It makes no differance which way you fit the springs

Ah, ive been miss quoted. Yes it was me that said that you can add some brass washers under the spring of the proportioning valve spring, But do not cut the spring shorter. Shimming the spring will raise the split point were the rear line pressure will be be decreased in proportion to the front, but not the amount it is reduced.

On the Australian model and im guessing the US one, you will find on the drivers side kick panel above the relays two big white wires that have male and female conectors,if we call one, wire one, and the other wire two, then all you have to do is disconnect all wires and plug the male of wire one in to the female of wire two and the same for the other, this bypasses the gauge and leaves the wires to it dead. Steven