David GArcia

So is the diode switched as well? or just the wires.

I know I have not contributed much to this forum and I have onyl asked questions but as soon as I am done with my build (October 8 2011) I will post everything I have found useful. Including guides reconmendations and reference to shops in the SoCal area.

thanks for the feedback What two wires? The one that come from the rb which are turqousie and white/red or the black/white and yellow from the rb? hmm what your trying to say is turqoise wire rb25det to black/white wire 240z and white/red wire rb25det to yellow wire 240z

I forgot to mention i also wired in the diode with the silver stripe facing the alternator. the t shaped connector wires to the rb connector wires. Does anyone have a clue to why my alternator is not charging on keeping the car on?

I recently started up my rb25det on my z and I soon found out that the alternator was bad. I got it rebuilt and I also cheacked the battery to be good. I was confident that my car was not going to run out of batter so I drove it around in the afternoon, and shure enough while driving my lights started to flickr and it lost power and eventually died. I went home and recharged the battery. I when to a local parts place and got my alternator rechacked and shure enough it was working. I went home and turned the car on and as i disconnect the positive battery cable the car dies automatically. I have checked and rechecked my wiring. Any suggestions?

Nevermind I had a bad alternator. I took it to get check and shure enough it was faulty. Ima go for a rebuild tomorow.

There is a more cost effection option than the mkinney intercooler and its 4 inches thick and 33 inches in overall width. The intercooler core itself is 2 feet wide

While your changing the timing belt you might as well should change your water pump. I suggest you also change the thermostat for my thermostat was stuck closed due to the motor not being used for a long time. My Rb would over heat so quickly and i had to take the intake manifold out to service the thermostat. The gasket cost less than 2 dollars at autozone and the thermostat cost 9.99. 1994 300zx twin turbo thermostat 170 degree 1984 300zx n/a thermostat gasket

When wiring the rb25det alternator do you hook up both the rb hot when on and the z main hot?

Oh now i get why you had 20 psi, it was because you bypassed the fuel rail in order to test leaks.

What i meant was that it was stuck closed but i edited the post.

My radiator is brand new so it must be the thermostat. I will get the thermostart today. As for the radiator cap i took it off my known working sentra se-r spec-v. I'm going to get the tool to pressure test it as well. Any oteher suggestions?

I reventrly started up my rb25det 260z and what I have noticed is that I may have the thermostat stuck closed. the reason I think this is because the top radiator hose gets warm after a minute of the car being on but the bottom one doesnt. Also, i stuck my finder inside the coolant and the coolant was not even warm. The reason I think the top hose was warm was only because it was close to the combustion chamber. Also it seems as the oil is taking up all the heat for when I opened the oil cap there were oil fumes after only one minute of idle. I also get a small white vapor coming from the exhaust side manifold. Could this be the cause of overheating and does not need to be cheacked? any ideas?

yes 43 psi fuel pressure

To anyone who does not have the courage to DIY on an RB25det swap I have one thing to say; I am 18 years old and I did my own rb25det swap on my 260z with the immense help of this guide. Go ahead believe in yourself and give it a try. If you follow this guide you will not fail.

From what i know, you need around 43 psi to run the rb25det.

The plugs at the rb25det transmission were ripped of by the previous owner so i have no neutral switch plug nor the reverse light plug. I had to splice both of the nutral switch leads together to make a neutral connection at all times. Only then was i able to turn over my car.

Is the Neutral switch that connects to the tranny supposed to be spliced in as well in order for the Starter to crank over? Or is there a way to bypass that?

I've been trying to follow this writeup but, I cannot find were to connect the starter wire. I have spliced both the yellow and the black and white wire together but I don't know where to plug the wire itself into. Any help please? This is the plug; the picture is from chris rummel As you can see the yellow and white black wire are spliced but where does the plug connect to?

ive been trying to follow this writeup but i cannot find were to connect the starter wire. I have spliced both the yellow and the black and white wire together but i dont know where to plug the wire itself into.. any help please?

rb25det

thanks you You have been very helpful on both of my posts

what is the exact part number for the r33 series II rb25det coil packs. Are there any USDM nissans that used the same series II coil packs?

Hey i was wondering in installing the greedy type manifold how many vaccum fittings will actually be used, and for what. from what i uunderstand brake booster wastegate bov cam breather and is that it?

Hey i was wondering in installing the greedy type manifold how many vaccum fitting will actually be used, and for what. from what i uunderstand brake booster wastegate bov cam breather and is that it?