David GArcia

Hey I was wondering has anybody dont this. I have tried sealing my gas tank welding holes that appear through age but still the z's gas tank gives me too much problems. I wonder if anyone here can make me a gas tank or can reffer to me to a website that does this type of job? I would preffer to have one of our own do the job. I want one out of alluminum with orinal placed feeder. that can be mounted with original mounting hardware. Pm me a quote or a website that does this type of job. I am shure i have seen something similar in this forum but I can't find it.

While I was reading the r33 manual for the rb25det it showed that the IAA valve was hosed to a connection after the turbo right before the thorttle body.

I have the same intake manifold. What I did was cut the flange of and straightned the intake manifold to direct the tb flange towards the 3 inch opening hole that is on that side. Just remember to factor in the radiator when you take your measurements.

Might I ask where did you find that boost solenoid on the engine bay? I belive I dont have one because my blow off valve seems to recirculate the air a little too soon.

the aac valve did not stal open in my car. I had to connect it to a pipe that i had to weld on my intercooler piping? You managed to have a drivable rb with the pipe open? when i test drove it with it open my car was driving really bad but when I connected the hose it ran the way it was supposed to... One more thing, where is the stock placement of the boost solenoid? is it under the wastegate? or attached to that section of the rb?

How much does the ebay item cost?

Although I agree with you about helical lsd's the vlsd did come in the late 300zx's also known as the z32's. They are actually more accesible and afforodible than the helical but there is far more work to be done to make it fit. The viscous do break down over time but they have the same usable lsd lifespan as the clutch type. The only difference insead of not functioning at all the turn into a regular open differential. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/90443-z32-vlsd-r200-swap Spoony if the halfshaft u-joints were meant to hold any power, wouldnt they still be used in todays automotive technology? Although it would be the easiest way to finish your car it may not be the most reliable. Then again it also depends on how you use the power of the rb26dett...

Check your wiring. You must have wired in the fuel pump to run at all time. If you just want to add a kill switch and turn it on manually that is also an option. I suggest you wire it into a hot when engine on wire.

I forgot to mention that the z32 diff's do have lsd. They are not clutch type lsd's but vlsd's. The only difference from them is when a clutch lsd breaks it losses its ability to distribute power. When a vlsd breaks it goes from being an lsd to turning into a open differential. For this reson I believe that a vlsd is a way to go.

I will buy one of these Aeromotive regulators tomorow from a local performance shop. I drove the car today and the psi fluctuates anywhere from 35 psi to 48 psi. Thanks for the feedback Spoony

its adjustable i just noticed if i lowered it to almost no psi of fuel and leave it for about and minute and tighten it again it regains the proper amount of psi which is 43. Any feedback?

It was an ebay fuel pressure regulator. i should have invested in something expensive. the car is a 260z with a rb25det swap

Nevermind at one point the car actually showed 0 psi although the fuel pumps were running the car could not start.

It almost feels like vapor lock. When i mean 1 bar i mean 15 psi. Yeah i know the rb25det is suppose to be run at 3 bar 43psi. The problem is that it doesnt stay at that pressure.

Im not shure what is wrong with the car. I put aftermarket fuel pressure regulator with a gauge. It broke so i exchanged it for one exactly the same. That same day I installed it i began to have fuel delivery problems again. The car starts up fine when its cold and the fuel pressure sttays at 3 bar. After i drive it for about half an hour the psi drops considerably. It reduces to about one bar and the the rb doesnt have enough gas to idle. My fuel pump is a bosch 402. The fuel pump does not sound like it is loosing any power. I am 100% my problem is fuel delivery but i cant point my finger to a specific spot.

Well the quaife route would be the easiest to do since it is basically plug an play. By going to trough this route you also get the benefit of getting a brand new diff with no abuse done to it. Although the z32 diff is cost less their is alot more fabrication involved. I believe the driveshaft would be longer. A mustache bar would have to be made. A diff mount would need to be fabricated.

I don't have much experience with the halfshaft of the z. I had in mind that the u joint half shafts would be my weakspot in my build so I went to cv axles right away. Are z32 differentials hard to get in your area? I'm asking this because z32 diff had cv axles attached to then. The z31 also had cv axles and lsd units but I have a feeling they are rare in your area.

If i had an extra z laying around I would try to foam the rockers. Its actually not a bad idea. Alot of other countries besided this one are acutallu using that methond instead of using roll cages.

If you want to save 500 dolalrs why dont you just follow Chris Rummel's guide to wire your rb into your 280z. I didnt want to pay so i did it myself. I took me one day to wire in which the car started up no hassle. Another day to tuck the wire and such.

I want to try to fit the stock tach to the rb25det can you make a small diagram..maybe it will clear up what you are trying to say. It would help alot.

If you have the money then get the rb26dett. If you dont then stay with the rb25det. Its basically all up to your budget... We all know that the rb26dettt is a more solid motor compared to the rb25det.

Are you going to stay with the clutch fan setting or will you be running aftermarket electric fans?

The pictures arent popping up. And you posted it three times.

Hey ZTR I woould like to see some number on the dragstrip after your done with your z. Maybe a dyno sheet too. I believe with the tomei oil pump youll be able to get your RPM's way up there.

DId you have to pay the fix it ticket or, by doing what you did were you immune from paying the ticket as well?