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Posts posted by Conedodger
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Thanks!
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Air cooled engines use CHT as well. Thanks for the help. I think I have a picture of which way I want to go.
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My point was that I know I can run without the CHT. My example refers to that. Sorry I seem to be continuously misunderstood here...
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Actually, even the MAP isn't necessary I could run on TPS and I have in other cars but more data is good. So, if someone out there has managed CHT, tell me how you did it.
I'm using an extrude honed early non-EGR L28 intake. A TWM "Big Throat" throttle body.
MAF is planned. Thanks for the suggestion!
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So I've brought home my Rebello built 3.0 stroker motor and mounted it on the stand. I'm at the stage of selecting and installing sensors. I'm pretty much going with the GM style sensors sold through DIYAutotune but I've got a couple questions you guys may be able to clear up for me.
First, I'm using a E31 head that has been modified with big valves, P&P, and injector notches. The E31 never had a cylinder head sensor so I can't just put a compatible one in its place. I probably should have had Rebello drill and tap for one but that's what I get for planning as I go instead of following a well developed plan. Can you guys think of a solution? What have you done? Or have you done without?
Second, I'd like to have altitude compensation as I live at 4500' and regularly travel up to 9000' (I live off Mt. Rose Hwy) and down to sea level. I know at least one friend who used a second MAP sensor to sample for barometric pressure. I've also heard of MAP sensors that are monitoring both. What are your experiences? What have you done successfully?
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My throttle body is the old TWM "Big Throat" which used the stock throttle switch so the shaft size is the same. 240SX?
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Oh! That's right! Never mind...
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I just discovered that I have a new '78 280Z TPS sitting on the shelf. I plan on using aTWM "Big Throat" throttle body. I'm wondering if the TPS is compatible with Megasquirt 3?
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I was in the design stage . I ran the car with both the dizzy and the COP installed while I was working out the details and to confuse people:)
Leon V ran EDIS on one of his cars, but kept the distributor "just in case." He may have more faith in it now but his car was my inspiration. I've never seen a Z idle so nicely!
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No - I think the MS PRO is weather proof though.
Not sure what your asking about plug leads . Yes the coils have spark plug leads
On your first page, you have a pic of the coils mounted to the engine and there are spark plug leads coming from what I assume is the distributor. Transition?
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Let me finalize my design complete with wires before I try and sell anything.
What you see here is my 3rd version already.
Next will be deciding how and where I am going to run my harness(s) thru the firewall. What have some of you guys done?
Why not put the 3X in the engine room? Isn't it weather proof?
Also, why do I see spark plug leads in your picture of your LS coils? Is this a transition pic?
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Why not use Austin Hoke's setup in the vendor section below?
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Still available. I just got shipping confirmation this morning. Thanks for sharing your skills Austin!
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Thanks for the credit for being aware of the rules and reps, but I'm just the owner. My tech makes me aware!
My tech hooks everyone up to the BAR97 machine (OBDII cars) and pretests them. It looks for codes and if one pops up, he advises them and gives his educated guess as to why and what to do. I suppose he could even sniff your car if it is pre-OBDII if you're only just interested. I'd have to come up with a charge for that. $15 or so... it takes time so I'd have to charge something.
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I know this is an old thread, but if the OP is still following it, I'd love to know why you're going to a STAR station? Those are only for 'directed' tests, i.e.: your registration renewal states you must use a STAR station. Those techs are on a point system if they do anything wrong and I believe it makes them a bit paranoid. BAR sends out bait cars to see if the techs will bend the rules. So the techs learn to spot them or they get caught if they cheat.
My tech knows the rules you were trying to assert. But, as for the underhood inspection, they may have open the hood to test the Evap system. They have to clamp a hose there...
Oh, I should add, I own Sonoma Smog Center and this -
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There used to be a $400 charge for bringing a car into California that was 49 State spec. California was sued and had to pay it all back with interest.
I own a smog shop and though I am not a smog tech, I can tell you that we get a lot of failure dt cars that aren't driven. Bottom line, don't wait until the last minute. Drive it like you stole it BEFORE you need to smog check it and register it. I have one gal with a Rav 4 that has been in 20 times in the last 5 weeks. I'm tempted to drive the thing back to my home in Reno/Tahoe area and back for her because her little 20 mile strolls are not going to get it. Tony's right. Shelf abuse will cause it to fail. The cure is to drive it...
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I have a used P90 from a an auto trans turbo. Just as it came off the core motor. $350
I live in Reno but work in the Bay Area so no shipping charges!
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Are these still available?
Are these still available?
Pretty sure the answer is yes and he is local to you if you're in the Bay Area. Contact him directly - Pete Robinson Rayven14 here on this forum.
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I restored a couple of them and sold one to a guy in Dubai who is building a full-on restoration. He seemed pretty pleased so I guess I did it right.
The early wheels are made of a wood impregnated composite material. Here is what I did.
First, I took 00 steel wool and removed the finish on the rim of the wheel. After that, I wiped it down with laquer thinner. Next, I carefully taped the rim portion with blue painters tape. Then, into my blast cabinet to remove the paint on the inner spokes. After that, I removed the tape on the outer rim and re-taped it. It is harboring glass bead or whatever media you use. Then, two good coats of primer followed by a couple coats of satin black. Last I turned my attention to the outer rim once again. I again wiped it down with laquer thinner and taped the spokes with blue painters tape. I then put on three or four coats of a spray on clear polyeurathane. There is no need to stain as putting on the clear polyeurathane brings up a deep red wood finish. Check out my results below...
[sharedmedia=core:attachments:41742]
[sharedmedia=core:attachments:41742]
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Cylinder head sensor and MAP MS3
in MegaSquirt
Posted
Any idea where I can purchase the extension bung to TIG weld?