Conedodger
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Posts posted by Conedodger
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I'm having the same problem. No tach but on a 1973 240Z
MSD6AL - original single point distributor - MSD 8910 tach adapter
Power wires are connected directly to the battery
Red to black/white stripe wire
White to distributor
Black to Coil negative post
Orange to Coil positive post
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Mine all buttoned up and nearly ready for upholstery. I still have to open up the opening for the door handle. I have no 'good' model panel to use for this so it has me a bit puckered up. Mine will use the reproduction upholstery vinyl supplied by Classic Datsun Motorsport...
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Good news!!! and kinda sorta bad news.
Ok so the pins for attaching the door panels are in fact a GM bumper clip/pin/fastener. I cant locate any info on the guy I purchased them from but I do have a few dozen laying around here and there. So after a little searching I came up with this:
It the fourth row dead center.
So the pins are 1 3/4 long with a 5/16th diameter pin and a 3/4 head. They completely replace the old hook style pins that came with the car and are much easier to install IMO. So once you get everything lined up, drill out new (say 7/16th holes) install your new pins (you may wanna tape them in place so the upholstery guy doesnt lose em) get em covered and pop em in place. These pins are far superior to anything that came from the factory... Trust me!!!!
This one Pete?
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I got mine. Thanks Pete. Now all I have to do is get the tops riveted on, get the holes where they belong and get them to an upholstery shop for the CDM reproduction door upholstery!
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Awesome I can't wait to get this started...
I just spent all spring break doing the 240sx 5 speed mod and it turned out really well. I love the Megan short shifter!!!
The only thing that bothers me is my lifters seem to be louder than they should. After doing a full motor rebuild
I have done the valve lash multiple times without positive results
The valve noise also seems to come and go. Oil pressure after rebuild was 10 at 1000 rpm and went all the way to 60 psi
But after the lifter noise started I checked the pressure at idle and it's hanging around 20 psi. Blockage?
I'm using a 10w-40(i think quaker)here in Texas with no zddp additive.
I didn't have the noise until after the first 1000 miles or so after the rebuild and used a zddp additive on the break-in oil but not after. I also have close to 3000 thousand on the rebuild.
Also i overheated the motor after it was rebuilt due to radiator problems but i don't think it got too hot. Compression after 3000 miles turned out to be 175 to 180 on all 6 cylinders.
Anyone got any ideas?
Run Brad Penn 20W50 Racing Oil. Adjust your valves again. Valve adjustment should be done shortly after break-in before settling in to a normal maintenance pattern.
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I would like get my steering wheel back into good shape and was looking for some input. It should be pretty straight forward but I was wondering what type of stains for the wood you guys would reccommend. Also maybe any special tricks you all use. Thought it would be a fun and rewarding little project.
My thoughts are to use something like minwax polyurethane and then put 2 coats of clear on it. Not like I can not resand it if I do not like the look with the clear but I think it will really make it pop and protect it even better.
I am assuming from your screen name that we are talking about the wood steering wheel used on the early Z.
You need no stain at all.
Here is how I did mine...
First remove the wheel and all that can be removed from the hub.
Next, tape the 'wood' portion of the wheel well with painters tape.
Bead blast or soda blast the spoke and hub portion of the wheel.
Remove and retape the 'wood' portion of the wheel being careful to blow off all traces of glass bead or soda.
Prime the spoke/hub portion and allow to dry.
Paint the spoke/hub portion with a good black satin paint and allow to dry.
Remove paint from 'wood' portion of the wheel.
Mask spoke/hub portion with painters tape.
Using steel wool, remove the finish from the 'wood' portion until it is a dull white and feels like a spanked-baby's-ass.
Remove the painters tape masking and blow off all remains of the steel wool.
Remask the spoke/hub portion.
Using a good quality marine grade gloss varnish carefully varnish the 'wood' portion and allow to dry.
Using ever finer steel wool, re-smooth between each of two to three coats.
Apply a wax coat if you wish.
What appears to be wood, is actually wood fibers with resin. The clear gloss varnish will give it the deep red stained look it had when it was new.
Tachometer not working with MSD ignition
in Ignition and Electrical
Posted
Thanks!