kyle

Thanks guys - I get the pitcher now... Too bad I finally threw those @!#!%@ worthless ramps away, they'd come in handy loading the suspension with the car up in the air.... I'll figure something out. Chances are I'm going to run into tire interference, so I'll do my best to max it out and keep it even. In other news, I drove the car the last few days (been out of commission pending a brake bleed). Wow. I definitely need to NOT drive this thing on the street. I don't know how you guys with "fast" Z cars keep your licenses.

Hi all- If all goes to plan this weekend, I'll put my TC kit back in and relocate my LCA pivots. Toe I can set easily enough. Some pre-drill measurements should let me get the camber dialed in, just by moving the LCA pivots slightly different amounts on each side. What about caster? I previously massaged the TC kit's aluminum sockets to keep the tires from hitting the front valence, reducing the ever-precious caster.... so I plan to see what I can do to get some of that back. But is there an easy way to measure it on-car? Preferably without removing the springs from the struts?

Thanks for the feedback, Jon... I still have a boogery brake bleed to do, so won't get to the LCA relocate for a week or two, plenty of time to research. I'll keep the 7/16" in mind for the bumpsteer (car is stiffly sprung and has tallish tires, so bumpsteer hasn't been an issue), and will move the pivot out far enough to get about 2-3* camber, since I'm at about .5-1 now. Mostly I'm just going to try to keep the damn thing on the track this time

Agreed that camber wear isn't an issue - over 30K on my current setup with zero wear issues. However, more camber is dreadfully needed unless you're askeered of oversteer. I'm currently on the fence about cutting up my pretty pretty car for more camber - so I was planning to move the LCA pivot out, 1/2" or so, and up about 1/4" to correct the roll center. But since I didn't see that on Jon's list of approaches, now I'm wondering about the wisdom of my plans (typical). I will probably go coilovers with biscuits to avoid cutting, but that's a year or more away. Any problem with moving the LCA pivots in the meantime?

What don't you like about your current brakes? Read the brake FAQ... I'm satisfied with the OEM brakes' performance when properly maintained and with good pads and fluid.

...hrm... so, you sayin it's fixable?

Well poop. Suppose it's better that way, just frustrating that I spent so much time bleeding at the track and didn't get the air out. On the other hand, I need to get the car up for a thorough post-offroad postmortem anyway.

Funny thing is, the pedal doesn't drop under load. It stays high and firm, even with working the brakes HARD. If it slowly dropped, I'd have an easier time diagnosing it: Fluid leaks - bad wheel cylinder/no fluid leak - bad master. This required pump-up is trippin me out. Well, it's easy enough to yank the wheels and check for fluid leaks.... I'll re-bleed everything again too. The nice part was that once I got used to needing to pump the brakes up, it stopped fine, so I was able to keep on trackin.

Thanks fellas, I sent a request. I always feel like a little fish swimming in a big pond over here, but you're always so damn nice to me //edit - but that's how the sharks get close enough to their meals, right? Hee hee!

-Apologies from zcar.com attendees noticing the crosspost, but I'm casting a wide net Went to Thunderhill yesterday.... I had brake problems pretty much all day. I replaced an inner seal on one caliper, whose leaks I'd been blaming on low pedal, before heading out. Bled the thing thoroughly, but still had a pedal that engaged lower than I liked. Well, I did what I could, then took it out. Pedal was low but usable for the first session. Decided to bleed the fronts again just to be safe... no air. Then decided to bleed the master, and *I think* I got a bit of air. Called it good, back out for the next session. Pedal was 100% rock strong and awesome for half the session, then degraded to needing a pump-up before extreme braking events (not a big deal, and very predictable). Bled again, and again, did the rear master just for kicks, and none of that made any difference. It feels very much like the rears are engaging but not the fronts, until I pump up. Then the thing stops really really well for something with non-vented rotors and 2"x3" pads. All I can figure is it's the master. Fluid's not leaking out, pads are in okay shape (due for replacement), fluid is ATE 200, Hawk HPS pads in front, OEM shoes in rear, brakes were previously excellent for prior track days. What happens is this: Press the pedal once - I can feel the rears dragging, but not much else. Pump the pedal once, then press - fronts engage a bit, lower than usual, but pedal is firm, stopping is okay, straight and true, but not 100% Pump the pedal twice, then press - solid pedal, great stopping. Then, if I let go of the brakes and reapply (like stop n go driving), I have to pump up again. The pumping is only good for one stop, if that makes any sense - no residual crutch factor. What it feels like is the fronts part of the master is pushing 40% of the fluid it should. Pads still have plenty of meat on them... though now that I think about it, I have those fade-stop-brake-cooler heatsinks (which work fabulously) sammiched between the pads and pistons. Maybe I have something improperly assembled? Hmmm...

I'm getting faster out there, and carrying a bunch more speed over 9. I've "discovered" that it's off camber a touch, and tends to steer the car to the right. I took note of this, and stayed over to the left on 9 a bit and followed it down, letting the car kinda choose its own line. Then I got gutsy and started chasing a much faster car. Tried to manhandle the car toward the right, which further unloaded the rear end and shot me up the outside bank. Pretty scary stuff, but stayed calm and brought it back in. On a later recon lap with my wife in her Miata, I noticed there's a big ass ditch shortly after I got back down the bank. THAT would have been a big problem, to say the least. Back on topic - what do you mean by "join the aero group"? If you mean get airborne, oh yeah, I did that and then some. Oops again. Bartman - the full airdams bug me just because of the amount of material between the lip and the wheel well. You can see it in this picture: I like the looks of this part, but wonder if it's as effective as the Spook: Well, $110 for a new one ain't too bad. In retrospect, I really am pleased with the way it turned out - a sturdier piece would have probably jacked up my front valence. Really curious if the one I have is worth fixing. The mounting lip is intact, but it's cracked where the main body of the piece angles for the mounting lip. Here's a rough idea of the damage - plus one of the mounting holes on the ouside ripped through.

Whoopsie, I had a feeling that off-camber turn (9 at Thunderhill) was going to get me. Sure enough. My spook cracked from the middle-right all the way across. Pretty well hosed. At what point do you guys figure fiberglass parts ain't work fixin any more? It's all there, and in the right shape, but it really took a beating. I have patched it before, with good results, but that was just minor parking lot curbage. I really like the look of the spook, and it helps a lot - I missed it on the freeway coming home, car didn't track as well. And of course, I need a place to hook up my brake ducts. I never liked the relatively massive look of the full aftermarket airdams. However, something lower than the spook would be nice. Any suggestions as far as repair, replacement, or modification? Thanks!

Hi guys- this is sorta cross posted from zcar.com, so apologies to readers of both. I have a L28/N42 with SU/SM, header, mild port/polish, MSA stg 1 or 2 cam (prob 2, but I can't remember) and GM HEI. The engine was rebuilt about 5K ago, and has seen a couple track days. Recently, it's started missing, performing poorly, just being grumpy. Compression is 140-150 across the board, Spark jumps 1/2"+ from wire to plug, SUs are cleaned and balanced, HEI module has been swapped for another, Ign coil seems okay (I forget the Ohm readings, but they were reasonable), Ignition timing is 16 base, 36 total, Plugs are clean and stay that way, Valves are .011I .012E. I did some non-related work (welded up a leaky gas tank fitting), fired it up, and it ran 100% perfect. Put the air cleaners back on after checking carb balance, and when I went to drive it, the miss was back. Wound up checking the vacuum at the brake booster fitting on the balance tube: needle waves around like mad from 0-5. Even with the engine running 1500RPM, the vac only got to about 10, still fluctuating madly. At this point, I'm getting the suggestion that there is a sticky valve or dropped seat. I'll see about doing a leakdown test; any other things to do before pulling the head?

That's me brotha. Nope, went to efans after the last episode. So far so good, even at Thunderhill in 105F ambients.

http://www.sonic.net/~kyle/oven.jpg The stovetop is used for beermaking:flamedevi The valvecover in question: http://www.sonic.net/~kyle/engr.jpg

I bought a used oven for $75 and put it in my carport... then I realized the L-series valvecover was too long to fit. so I took a spare L-series oil pan and screwed it to the door after removing the glass. X-tra sump powder coat oven. true story.

I got a huge improvement in my 240z by putting the rear swaybar back on. Roughly 1" front, 3/4" rear, addcos with PU bushings.

That (along with lower freeway RPM) is what had me undecided: The engine has a pretty broad powerband (good power from 2500, great power from 3500-7500). Adding a turbo will only broaden it further. I didn't find myself wishing for closer gears, with the exception of 1st, which is useless on a track anyway. One upside to using the 3.90 is I can keep the car operational until the diff is built and ready to go in.

Thanks fellas.

Hi guys- I have recently acquired a Torsen for my 240Z (thanks Katman!). I have two R200's, a 3.54 and a 3.90. Transmission is a 79 ZX five speed (wide ratio). The 3.54 is currently installed, and includes one track day at Thunderhill. I also drive the car to and from track events, so freeway RPM is worth considering. But the car is NOT street driven with any regularity. As it stands, the car has a 9.5:1 L28+1mm, 260/460 cam, SUs, etc. Pretty hot by my standards, but pretty tame by hyridz standards. Freeway RPM is a relaxed 2500, and 1st gear is a lagfest, especially with the lightweight flywheel. Suspension, tire, and brake upgrades are in the works this track season. A turbo is up next year or the year after. I'm torn on which ratio to build the Torsen into. On the one hand, since it's a track car, I ought to gear it as low as possible without topping out. (3.54 = 183 mph! ) Getting the car in a sweet spot for a particular track is probably pointless, as my ability and the car's capability are bound to increase. The possible (eventual?) turbo suggests the higher wider gear ratios would be a wiser choice. And the low low freeway RPM makes for much more pleasant journeys to track day.... but then again, by the time I top out second gear, I'm begging for a ticket. What would you do?

Back with more math, to see if anyone buys this: it's not an angle issue, it's a right triangle issue. http://www.analyzemath.com/Geometry_calculators/pythagorean.html Say the tie rod is 12", and rises 3" from dead level. The level effective length of the tie rod drops to 11.61895. Net decrease is .38105". Say the LCA is 11.5" and rises 3" from dead level. The level effective length of the tie rod drops to 11.101802. Net decrease is .39820". The difference is .01715". If this takes place at the knuckle, and the knuckle is 4" long, that's 0.24565585*. Taking that angle out to a 26" diameter tire (?) gives 0.111475006" of movement, or less than 1/8" bump steer. Anyone buy that?

I'm with ya. What I'm wondering (and wishing I had the math smarts to wrangle with competently) is if a .5" different length of the control arm vs the tie rod gives rise to significant bumpsteer. I played with that math calculator, and got .016" bumpsteer or .6", so I know I'm doing something wrong. ...probably trying to run track days on a budget, that's probably what's wrong...

How so? Will the outward movement of 1/2" (just for the sake of argument) really have a different effect than a longer LCA with regard to the bumpsteer? Will the 1/2" different effective length of the LCA create a significant angle disparity through the range of motion likely to be encountered? (IE, lengthen the tie rod 1/2" but keep the LCA the same length, just move the pivot) Put slightly differently, if bumpsteer comes from dissimilar angle, does it really make a difference where the LCA is located laterally? When you're turning, the LCA and tierod could be anywhere in a wide range of positions. I have a funny feeling I'm going to catch a beatdown for this, but I'm confused and it's all your fault!

Did not know that about the tires, food for thought, thanks Jon. I just hate to spend money for offset bushings when I know their use is temporary. Then again, it's only $70. FWIW, MSA says they're good for an additional .75*. Hacking the arms is an idea, but somehow I don't much care for the idea of slicing and dicing such a critical piece. Maybe I'll put my old TC rod ball/cup kit back in, add some caster, and leave it alone for now, then throw in some adjustable arms/rods when I do the tires. For that matter, maybe I just need to show some sack and buy a decent set of arms. Sigh, decisions decisions. Maybe that can be a midyear upgrade. Don't need the wife getting hostile. So far, the street tires on it have been wearing straight and even, though I haven't checked temps. They look to have at least two more days in them, maybe three.

Been reading and searching a lot here this week, absorbing what I can. That's what lead me to the LCA pivot as a preliminary modification. No argument that coilovers, plates, adjustable arms and rods, rear offset bushings, etc etc etc are the way to go. That's the reason I'm not screwing around with offset front bushings or offset hats; that stuff goes out the window with the next round of upgrades. Between last year and this, I've done the rear bar, seat and harness, LSD en route, and up next some camber and toe... that's got to be enough tweaks from one session to the next, right? My plan for this season (4-8 track days, if I'm lucky) is to get more consistant and go to Rcomps and hotter pads. No sense in building a car that exceeds my ability. More major suspension stuff next year, perhaps... and power the year after that.