z240
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Posts posted by z240
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normal oil is good enough. You apparently primed it correctly. Ok, now were are down to the oil pump drive spindle. Is that there? Is the gear on the end of the crank that drives it?
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ok, scratch the oil pickup not there idea.... Yes there is a gasket
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Did you prime the oil pump before installing it? Dry pumps don't suck.
Remember to put the oil pan pickup tube/screen back on?
Forget to put the oil gallery plug back in the front of the block?
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First read this to get a sense of what's important in drive shaft alignment.
http://www.roadranger.com/ecm/idcplg?IdcService=GET_FILE&dID=287236
R/T mounts when used simply as a replacement for the strap, ie the tiny bump stop/snubber above that just touches the diff nose, and complete use of the stock cross member and stock diff mount, do nothing to change the stock diff nose location. At best it means you put it back to the right spot when you replace your worn diff mount/insulator with a new one.
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Not so simple to cut the manifold to shorten. None of the runners are straight. Removing an inch leaves nothing that lines up when it goes back together.
Maybe close to the head there is "enough" straight-ish that leaves enough meat in the runner to grind out what doesn't quite match up from the inside. Maybe 80% there and the rest by thinning the carb flange? Rest by thinning the heat insulator block? Yeah, heck, there's plenty for that if you take from all three places. Take a bit off the back of the carb too! Go for it!
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The stamping and holes are all the same, but the steel tube in the center of the rubber bushing that mounts it to the K-member is offset slightly, positioning the arm biased to the front of the car if I remember right (short space in front, long space in rear). You'de offset the control arm if you used a right on the left or visa versa. Its only maybe 1/2 difference, but would affect alignment specs.
If you're replacing bushings then it doesn't matter one bit. Just orient the new bushing spacers correctly for the side it's on.
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There are three varieties. 240's have a simple two wire connector, 260/280 up to 7/76 has a third wire as there is an "empty" sensor thing on the arm as well, then there is the late 280 sender that goes in the top of the tank , as the 8/76 and later cars have quite a different tank.
The 240 and early 280 sensors mount in the tank the same way, and other than the electrical connectors are interchangable for the fuel level function. Just have to "alter" the wiring to suit. The 240/early 280 tanks are slightly different volumes and shapes, so there may be small differences in float arm length or electrical resistance full/empty, but they are small. We seen posts here or on czcc that suggest new senders don't have the same bends on the arms, (or any!) as the stockers, and if you don't make them the same, you level reading will be off.
Can't think of anything else. Hope this helps
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if you have lowered the suspension, the control arm may be more horizontal then stock, (usually the wheel end is lower than the K-member end) making the link higher than normal, making the issue worse. Another reason to add the bump steer spacers to restore geometry.
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Whack the cast flange where the bolts pass through, not the drive shaft tube. No harm. Use a chisel if you like to get between them.
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May be related to fuel pressure. Have it checked.
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Something from a old thread is sticking in my mind about certain racing orgs requiring hard fuel line under the car and in the trans tunnel. Makes sense to me with the posibility of a ground rub or drive shaft letting loose tearing up soft lines. Maybe SS braided line is tough enough. This is just a vague memory, but might be worth checking out before committing a bunch of coin on long lengths of SS braid line.
Even if the groups that you plan to race with don't check or don't care about this stuff, it makes a certain amount of safety sense to use hard lines.
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The only significant difference in the 280 cross member is a larger radius on the exhaust cutout on the bottom. It it may matters to you if you're going to run a 3" exhaust under there but otherwise use what you have.
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I measured a real stock master. 2.25 is confirmed.
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The Wilwood 260-1304 universal clutch master http://www.performanceonline.com/WILWOOD-INTEGRAL-RESERVOIR-COMPACT-ALUMINUM-CLUTCH-MASTER-CYLINDER-19753/ fits the S30 pattern perfectly and summit has the spacing for this part at 2.25" http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wil-260-1304
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Steering rack. They will seem to fit but will be sloppy in use. The spacing of the flanges on the left side flange are wider on 280 than 240.
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The Matsuri/car show is held in the grassy park area at the base of the Knox Mountain immediately north of downtown Kelowna in conjuction with the hill climb. You pay a small fee to get to "park" inside the hill climb gates, then have full access to all hill climb viewing and pit areas. Not to mention the beer gardens.
About 5-6 years ago the hill climb organizers had an idea to attract more public viewing of the event (which is now in its 56 year!) decided to invite local car clubs to park their iron (tin in our case) on the grass in hopes of attracting more spectators. It worked!!
We had 43 Datsuns there last year.
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And make sure you all be sure to come to the Datsun Matsuri, part of the Knox Mountain hill climb in Kelowna this May long weekend!
Make sure Dave's hard work pays off setting this up. There is no better way to celebrate Datsun-hood than sitting on the hill climb starting area smelling tire smoke and hearing the roar of race engines, while surrounded by Datsun delight as far as the eye can see.
http://www.311s.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=18139
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Lets play "where's Waldo?" Who can spot the silver Z in the big over-all shot?
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0.75 inch thick should do. Yes for L28
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Study more, alot more, about how the various engine tuning parameters affect performance before doing anything else. Someone is selling you a bill of goods. If they offer you an add-on fuel line device to increase fuel mileage, run, don't walk in the opposite direction.
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lucky fender.....
Rear insulator height difference?
in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
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Its closer to 1". Do you need an exact measurement?