z240

Springs are now sold

I’ll add to this post, as it’s me over at CZCC with that for sale post. I have since found the matching 5020F front springs, and I also have two sets of those! All brand new. I’ve lowered the price to $100 per set of 4 (2-5020F and 2-5020R) Mind you the total lack of response to this thread might indicate interest in these springs is pretty low, but who knows. Send me an email to z240@shaw.ca if you’re interested.

Answer is no. The 5 speed counter shaft has a long extension at the back of the intermediate plate that hangs all the 5th gear stuff. 1/2/3 gears are part of the counter shaft. Can't swap counter shafts between 4/5 speeds. You "can" swap the 4th gear pair (B trans only) as they come off the shafts. You can swap 5th gear gears between 5 speeds. Since the 4 gear pair ratio affects all the other ratio's you could mix and match a bit between 5 speeds to get some interesting ratio's. I have a truck 5 speed and a close ratio 83 zx 5 speed that if you put the close ratio 4th gear set in, you get these pretty interesting ratio's including a really nice high mileage overdrive. Here are the stock truck ratio's. Couldn't tell you exactly which year this is from, the bell housing is the rotated one that puts the engine vertical. Rest of it is pure 71B. And here is what you get by swapping in the close ratio (CR) 4th gear set into that truck gear set. I'm going to try this and see how it feels to drive. Here are the regular gaggle of 5 speed ratio's for comparison

http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic15r/16-7124 They may also be available from Nissan,

Seems I have a pair of these door latch mechanisms. PM me for details

Remember the biggest difference in 240 vs 260/280 column covers is the "angled up" right side stalk on the 260/280. This makes the opening for that stalk in the cover different. (More hole in the top half). You can trim the opening larger to fit if you use a 240 on a later column. The 77-78 covers are much larger and wider than earlier ones, and aren't really backward compatible. Another potential entry in the "One of these things is not like the other" thread I keep meaning to start.

Drop me a line if you can't find one closer to home. Z240@shaw.ca

M14x1.5 is correct for both sides.

The early and late racks (roughly 240 and 280) had a different width to the flanges on the left side. You likely have a 280 (wide) flange rack and a narrow set of 240 bushings in there. Look at energy suspension web site to get the PN's of the two bushings. 10101 and 10102. ?

i can find you a hazard switch for your 75. send me a email to z240@shaw.ca Seems I have both the 4x2 later 77/78 connector and the early 3x3 connector style. Both are 7 active pins.

Yes, SIr Richard, 'tis I. Hmmmm, if I rent a U-haul, fill all my rain barrels with premium to sell at the hill, I could probably pay for my hotels. I don't need a lid on those barrels, do I?

Welcome to the club. It's slop in the CV internal splines. Apparently this is designed slop for off road or some such. There have been threads somewhere complaining bitterly about this. Drive shaft shop and others have better no-slop CV solutions Anybody want my sloppy seconds? I went back to U-joints....

They are the poly ones. They worked well, but, did get more engine vibration than I liked. I currently run only one on right side, and a stocker on the left, or is it the other way around.. Whichever one is under compression when the engine torques over. I had two sets though, never used the other set, it's new. I've used the aftermarket stock replacement engine mounts. They are fine, but watch out. The ones I got had SAE welded nuts instead of the stock M8. And the little metal nub that locates in the little hole on the engine mount is in the wrong place or too large or both. Other than that, they are the right size....

I've been on this path for a while as well. Very interested to find out how well that potted in place transmount holds up. I have a set of this McKinney motor mounts if you want them. PM me.

I believe I have a set of 78 pedals as well as earlier ones. Let me see if I can identify the differences.

I think I have a 280 pedal box that will work for you. Contact me at z240@shaw.ca

That is one HARD rail to bend. Would be interested to understand how that happened. I have a couple of those, I can send you one. PM me or email to z240@shaw.ca

I have a couple of these side plates from scrapping a few old diffs. Send me a note to z240@shaw.ca and we can arrange something.

I'll happily sell you the same locking cap (the one that MSA is out of) without the on-car modified ring if you want one.

Just a comment about that BMW cap that MSA sells (well, might sell, but they are out of them apparently). First, they don't actually lock the cap in place. Yes you put it on just fine and turn the key successfully, but the cap is not locked on. You have to add a little weld bead or screw or something at the right spot to make a "thing" that the protruding tang on the cap can hit against to actually lock. Second they don't work at all on the smaller 77-78 filler necks. All that said, I have some modified locking rings and a couple of these lockable caps left if you want one. PM me or send an email to z240@shaw.ca. Note that modifying the 260/280 filler neck requires removing it from the car as unlike the 240's, the locking ring part is part of the metal filler neck. Here is the thread about it http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/55809-locking-gas-cap-solution-for-s30-that-works/?page=2&tab=comments#comment-501189

The holes might not hurt the bending strength much, but removing the "I-beam" top and bottom flange sure as hell will. Stop. Please...

How great to have that resource to make those bushings. Great work! Can you tell us if he is casting them or machining them from a larger piece? BTW, the ES poly bushings fit the 73 and later crossmember (Item 24 in the diagram) with the horizontal mounting bolts.

Edited. Actually don't have one in the size you mention. sorry.

No problem. Just keep a wet vac in the trunk and suck your carpets dry every couple of days. I drilled a hole in the tunnel and ran the hose through there with about 1" sticking out under the car. Just make sure the hose always runs downhill.

The parts manager at Lynchburg Nissan, Riley Curtis is bending over backwards for people looking for OEM parts. On FB, search for "Riley LynchburgNissan", he's watching all the time. He has helped me and many other immensely.