z240
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Posts posted by z240
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Nathan
Same post twice! Must be desperate. I have a couple I can spare. Send me an email to z240@shaw.ca if you still need them. $5 + postage
These bolt the strut to the lower ball joint, correct?
Jim
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From your profile, you need the taller insulator for 280 only. I have a couple. I'll get it to you for $45 shipped.
I'll pm you with details.
Jim
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I have the evap box and condenser from a 77 as well. The evaporator PN is 27610-N3110. Drop me a note to z240@shaw.ca for pictures.
I'll sell it $15 + the cost of postal shipping. I just about took it to the recycler over the weekend. Something told me....
I'm in western Canada, just happy to get it to you.
Jim
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Steve
I have one in good shape if you can't find one closer. Let me know at z240@shaw.ca
Jim
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I have a pretty good one, not NOS by any stretch, but you might be willing to compromise. I' m not exactly close, (western canada) but I'll package it well. slow postal shipping is pretty cheap.
Contact me at z240@shaw.ca when you get a chance and I'll send you pictures and see if it's good enough.
Won't be back until Wednesday, you've waited this long I suppose....
Jim
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Tim
I have a set you can have for $40 shipped. I'm in western canada. Can ship them Wednesday.
Drop me a note to z240@shaw.ca and I'll send pics when we get back on Wednesday.
Jim
Hi all - I know that I have them, but I just can't find them!
I need a set of the FRONT sway bar brackets and the small mounting plates for a 1971 240Z. I have the stock 16mm bar.
I will be getting these powder-coated. Condition is not overly important as long as they are not bent up.
Please shoot me a PM with a "shipped" price to 80920 (Colorado Springs). Can send PayPal immediately.
Thanks!
Tim
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Oh, on the fronts, you'll need to use the 78 hubs as well. Rotors are different offset. So much for "identical".
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Fronts yes, identical. Rears, sort of. If you swap EVERYTHING on the rear you can use them. The backing plate, shoes and slave cylinders are different 77-78. May need to bend the hard brake line slightly too to mate into the 78 slave. Just take a careful look at everything and the differences should be obvious.
Jim
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Look up your local "FibreNew" franchise owner. The process of vinyl, leather and dash repair are well known and well supplied in the marketplace. The comments about this continuing to be an issue though are all too true. Once it starts to shrink to the point of cracking, its only a matter of time until the "next" one starts.
Jim
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Holy smoke.
First picture. Red Manifold vacuum lines. One used to go to dizzy vacuum advance, but now since these carbs are different, the vacuum signal there is not useful. Green holes. if there are connected to the manifold, plug them!
Second picture, Big one of valve cover needs to go to the the air cleaner. Many people put a little k&N filter on it. Other nipples, ignore!
Third picture. That is the crank case vent and needs to have a PCV valve on the end, connected to the intake manifold so it has soemthing to suck on to, well, vent the crank case!
Forth picture green. The two ports look like bowl vents but I'm not a DGV guy. They need to be connected to the atmosphere. Again, should go to the air cleaner.
Fifth picture: No clue. Someone? What else in the thermo/dizzy harness?
sixth picture. That "thing" is a condensor. Connects to + side of the coil. Designed to keep ignition noise out of the radio. If your radio is quiet, ignore it.
You really need to study some here about SU carbs and how they hook up to their lines. It will show you why you have stuff disconnected and where it goes on SU's and what its needed for.
The only missing picture is you taking the DGV's off and getting proper SU's back on there!!!! Just my opinion.
Jim
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There is very experienced Datsun A/C guy over on classiczcars.com. Search for user sblake01. He may be able to help.
Jim
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I'm pretty sure the stock 240 fan is 15" and the 280 fan is 16". Your sizes idea is fine. What is most important is a proper shround so that the fan actually has a chance of pulling the air it moves through the rad and not just in from the sides. IS there some reason you are not considering a nice stock fan with a good clutch? If your stock clutch is not working, search here a simple way to rebuild it. Its just replacing the fluid with in it.
Jim
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Those nuts are (were?) welded to the inside of that pocket. If they are "loose", they will not take kindly to being re-tapped. I'm thinking you will be cutting the old ones out and welding in new ones.
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If you have confirmed you have power right up to the socket, and the ground side is connected to metal, and the fuse doesn't blow when you turn the lights on, then either you have bad bulbs or the sockets do indeed need rebuilding. I have some spare 280 license plate light assemblies if you decide they are beyond repair. PM or email z240@shaw.ca
Jim
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Look inside your dizzy. Do you have two sets of pickup coils or one? 74-75-76 all seem to have the two pickup systems with the water temp switch that decides which one is being used based on water temp (advance more when warm I believe). Check EE-34 in the 74 FSM for the schematic of this system.
Sounds like you have a 77-78 dizzy with only one pickup coil, and hence, only two wires. Wire it back the way you found it, you have to ensure that no matter which way the temp switch is, one pickup coil has to be used.
Jim
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Switch on the way shortly. Glad to help.
Jim
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There is nothing wrong with what you are proposing. Just make clean connections, and waterproof as much as possible. Solder and heat shrink are considered requirements, nothing crimped if you can avoid it. Take your time, take pictures, work carefully.
Jim
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Just keep it simple. It really helps to print the diagram out and color the lines that you want to stare at. I've attached a revised version of your document with the lines in question in red with some arrows. See if that helps.
Then use your multi-meter to check which link socket terminals are connected to the starter and/or alternator, with the links removed from their terminals. Make a drawing of how the fusible links are hooked up BEFORE you remove them just so you don't confuse them later.
Good luck.
Jim
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Mota:
have you found a switch yet? I have a couple, one with the wires still attached even! zing me a mail to z240@shaw.ca when you get a chance.
Jim
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John
The strut insulators one the fronts are the same height for 240 and 280, its only the rears on 280 that are taller than 240. I have lots of 240 insulators in great shape. Contact me at z240@shaw.ca
Jim
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The "spacer" you are likely referring to underneath is a steering bearing that allows the strut to turn when you turn the wheel. These are available at any car parts store. If someone sends you a new strut insulator, it likely won't come with that. The rear insulators, which are the same as the front, have a rubber donut/bushing the same size as the bearing for the front.
Either way, if you still want a strut insulator or the bearing I have both. Send me a mail to z240@shaw.ca
Jim
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I have a couple in good condition for $20 each (+ shipping). Please contact me at z240@shaw.ca and I'll send pictures this evening.
Jim
Does anyone have one for sale on the cheap, or maybe a leaking one that I can try to fix that I can pay shipping for. I live in Vancouver WA.
They're about $70 new from what I've been finding, but if anyone has one laying around, I'd prefer to keep the money in the community.
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Patrick
Assuming you want the rear one, (taller than the front) I have a few of them in good condition. Asking $35 + shipping. Please contact at z240@shaw.ca and I'll send pictures this evening. If you need a front one, they are the same as 240. I have some of those as well.
Thanks
Jim
im looking for 1 rubber isolator off a 280z. the rubber piece on the top of the strut. Please let me know if you have one you want to get rid of.
thanks
patrick
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I have one if you still need it. $60 incl postal shipping from Western Canada. Drop me a e-mail to z240@shaw.ca and I'll send pics to be sure you get the right one. Jim
OEM Door Panels for 240Z
in Interior
Posted
I purchased several sets a couple of years ago and sent many state side. I've had a set on my car and they still look great. The grain pattern is different, most a bit coarser, but you're right, I don't notice it. Someone recently checked CDN stock again, and there were no more. I can check again for you. Drop me a line to z240@shaw.ca and I can send some pics.
Jim