Wilson_WWSC

Haha, I saw that Z on craigslist today and thought that was a nice dash. Didn't even notice that it was a dash cap. I think I'll have to pick one of those up, thanks for the help. I probably won't be selling my radio unless I sell the whole car. I got the radio off of ebay for cheap and I was just going to use it for that classic look in the center console. It turned out to work perfectly, and even the antenna goes up and down with the switch. I actually have an aftermarket stereo wired up in the glove box.

What year is my dash? Is 1973 correct? I am looking to get a dash cover and just want to make sure I pick the right one because the catalog has no picture of the 73 dash. They do have a pic of the 70-72 dash, which looks like mine. How do I tell them apart? Also, I might try to repair the dash myself, but it looks like a HUGE pain to take out of the car. I know it can't be all that hard, but how much of a pain is it? And, if I get the dash out, I will feel inclined to change out the gauges for some that work, but that also seems like a huge hassle and seems pricey. (It's a chevy v8 conversion btw) Right now only my amp meter and tach work. I have the wrong gears for the speedo, and I don't know what I need to do to make the speedo read correctly (it is a turbo 350 trans). The fuel gauge is not accurate, I think. Here are some pics (the glare from the flash really makes things look a lot uglier than they actually are, haha)

Great work, I wasn't able to keep up with the modifications because I was researching in Moorea. I gotta say, the final product looks great. What is the estimated price for a FG spoiler?

It is summer again, time to work on my z. I have a sbc in my 73z with a holley 1850 carb and a really loud aftermarket fuel pump. The carb was rebuilt correctly and tuned.The problem is that when I stomp on the gas, the motor bogs up like crazy and sounds like it is about to stall. I'm wondering if I am getting too much fuel pressure, and would a fuel pressure regulator (a 30$ Holley one) fix my problems. Any input would be appreciated. Wilson

I like how you can fix rust with one picture. "Firewall gone" "Firewall fixed"

very nice. you need some clr to clear up that rust. why'd you pick the f22 over the f20?

Here's an additional question: Is there supposed to be smoke coming out of the intake plenum up the barrels? This happens after I turn off the car. The smoke is a light grey color and lasts for about 2 mins. Is this exhaust?

Yea, the ony way to get them to fit would be to build a ledge out of mdf for the speakers. I'm thinking about this because I want a more natural look instead of having 2 6x9 speaker boxes in the trunk. I also need to figure out a subwoofer system: one big one or 2 smaller ones, where to put/hide it, and where to mount the amp. I like adding on these money pit accesories instead of focusing on more important issues, like tuning my carb. =)

do you mean 3438? That might work for the door, but the inner hatch seal has a bulb right ontop of the edge doesn't it?

Do you guys think that McMaster Carr part number 3438 style 1, 3439 style 1,2,3 or 4 would work for the body to hatch seal? I'm looking for a replacement for my black dragon auto strip. It is the inner peice that goes on the body and seals up to the hatch.

I don't think bending the pedal is an option for me because the bellcrank already travels to its maximum limit. I've just started the car with my rebuilt carb and am glad that there were no engine fires. I still need some help on the hole in my carb though as per post 13.

looks like I may have to change the location of the throttle bolting onto the carb. I know the original linkage was super ghetto, but it worked for more than 30 years.

The one thing I dont love about this spoiler is that looking at it from the back, it looks like a huge plank of wood. It might look better if the rear surface slanted in/up then came back out to the hatch ledge.

Ok, as a warning, the pics that I took are not VERY clear, as I was too close. Here is a picture of the hole that I sprayed stuff in (the one with the cork gasket), except this is the opposite side. I sprayed stuff on the carb. body side of this hole. This is a pic of the vaccum secondary diaphragm housing. The red arrow in this picture indicates wehre the hole is. It is less than .5mm in diameter, and is pretty round. It is right on the seam of the casting.

ok so the local place that would have this kinda stuff was closed last night so I went to home depot and made myself a new throttle cable that works for a grand total of 2.80$ and 1 hour of labor to make and put it in. So in my Holley 1850, I noticed that there was a small round hole in the one of the barrels. I sprayed some compressed air from a can upside down into the hole for the vaccuum secondary and it sprays out of that little hole. It looks like a casting error or it could be that it should be there. I'm thinking that it is an error. Should I plug it up with some JB weld? How does the vaccuum secondary work (ie. where does it get vaccum from?)

The only way I know how to fix this would be to drill holes, clamp the cracks, and screw in some brass wood screws to close up the cracks. Get screws that are longer than you need and be sure not to sink the head of the screw into the wood. Then you would grind/dreml off the head of the screw. This is a common way that arsenals and gun owners use to repair cracks in milsurp rifles, and it works pretty good. Not really sure if there is a way to repair these cracks in a cleaner method as I've never had to do that before.

I have a manual, the 7th edition; it came with the car. Is there any better/new info in the more recent versions?

I'll give you five bucks for the airplane.

locking vice grips worked with some elbow grease and WD40. Then I found out my 6x9's are too deep to fit into the compartments. Might have to get samller speakers, but the lids came off! Thanks