Wilson_WWSC

This is a 1973 automatic 240z with a v8 swap done by the previous owner. I'm pretty sure the wires in question are factory wires, but I am having difficulty determining what they are in the FSM and another wiring diagram I got off Ebay (laminated one). The red arrow is pointing to a solid yellow wire that goes to the voltage regulator plug. It is spliced together with another yellow wire at the plug. I am removing the voltage regulator. This yellow wire comes out of the firewall along with the black/yellow wire (which goes to the starter). The green arrow points to 4 wires. Two are red/black and two are green. These were not hooked up to anything and I don't know what they do. They branch off from the main bundle of wires. The orange arrow points to a yellow/black wire. Don't know what it does. Any help is greatly appreciated!

I'm looking for a starter/ flex plate combination for my engine. It is currently a stock 327 SBC with a 153 tooth flexplate with a TH350. I want to switch to a mini starter when I get my 200-4r. The starter bolt holes are straight across, so that means I can only use a starter made for a 153 tooth flexplate, right? Will this starter work? http://www.db-starter-alternator.com/p-10547-new-chevy-buick-pontiac-jeep-mini-starter-long-short-mt-sdr0059.aspx I'm asking on this forum because the JTR manual lists a few starter designs that will not fit the Z.

What cooling lines did you run? Is the top or bottom line the return line? I'm planning on running an external cooler on the return line from the radiator cooler.

My yoke has 26 splines and I can see a gap where a 27th spline would go. So its supposed to have 26 splines?

I just popped the driveshaft off of my z to rebuild the motor and install a 200 4r trans. It's currently got a chevy 327 with a th350 and r200 rear end. I found that the yoke is missing a spline, I think. Is it supposed to have 26 or 27 splines? I'm looking for a replacement that will fit a 200 4r. Is it the same yoke? How do I determine what length I need? As you can see in the picture below, the yoke used on my th350 is about 6.125 inches in overall length. Is this the length that is referred to in the specs, such as here: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/axe-t350-hp/overview/ ? Anything else I need to be aware of when replacing the yoke or swapping to the 200 4r? Thanks!

Going to remove the heater hoses as part of my engine rebuild. Please see my edited 1st post!

What is the proper way to set up a PCV system? I will probably go with the common route of a breather on one valve cover and a pcv valve on the other (connected to the carb or intake), but how do I select the proper PCV valve? I've tried to research it and have found no definitive answers to which valve works. I will be rebuilding my chevy 327 with RHS pro action 180cc/64cc heads, a Howards Cam roller 270/278 cam, Edeldbrock performer rpm intake, Holley 600cfm vac secondary carb. I haven't decided what to do with the bottom end yet. I may go 030 over if my pistons are dished (I want flat top) or if the pistons are not in good shape. Also, any suggestions for the bottom end? Leave it stock if everything looks ok? This is going in my 240z. Thanks!

EDIT: I don't need a heater where I live and I want to remove the heater hoses. I will be plugging up the water pump and intake side with plugs, but I don't want to go through the trouble of removing the heater core to unplug the hoses inside. Can I just cut the hoses close to the firewall and plug them wtih something? If so, what's the best way to cut stainless braided hose? Dremel? Any tips on what to use to plug up the hoses? Thanks! Can someone tell me what these hoses are for? The arrow pointing left is a hose that goes into the firewall and connects to the intake manifold. The arrow pointing down is a hose that goes into the firewall and into the water pump. Any help appreciated. Thanks!

Hi, I have a 73 240z with a chevy v8 in it and a GM 3 wire alternator. The driving lights were running fine for a long time, since I put the new alternator in. Yesterday, my driving lights wouldn't turn on and I flipped the switch again and they worked. Today, the driving lights won't turn on. I also noticed that when I use my left blinker, the rear light (in the taillight) will only blink sometimes. Can anyone please help me find the problem, and where to find it? This is my daily driver. I run HID's on relays, so those still work. Thanks for any help. This is my daily driver so I need to find the problem asap!

Is your buddy parting with those splash guards?

Thanks. I'm going to try this out when I get a chance.

I'm looking for some splash guards or mud flaps to put on my 240z. I know black dragon or msa (one of them) has some but they are redonkulously overpriced at around 75$ a set. Anyone know of anything that will fit and is reasonably priced? I'm looking for more of a splash guard style, where the piece is stiff. Thanks, Wilson

Pics would be great. Definitely worth a try. Thanks

Resto mod of a 240z done in my garage over 4 summers. Before and after pic.

i believe the msd is the same diameter and height as a stock unit. You can get a HEI unit with a separate ignition coil and that will give you enough clearance for the JTR hood latch. If you don't think you have enough firewall clearance, there are even HEI units on a small base, with a separate coil. These are the same (or very similar) size as a points distributor. Make sure you relay the HEI unit when you convert as you need much bigger wire. I probably need another inch or so for my plunger and safety latch to fit. I ordered some locking carbon fiber hood pins from auto zone for 27 bucks. Probably going to end up painting them black. So, now that my tach doesn't work, I'm gonna need new gauges. How do I get around the turn signals on the speedo? And I've heard it is possible to take out the tach without remove the dash. How?

So, I got the MSD Hei distributor installed, and MAAAAN is it NIIICE. Easy to install. I have enough clearance to the firewall, but I cannot use my JTR hood latch mount. The plunger from the hood smacks into the ignition coil unit on top of the distributor cap. Now, I'm looking for hood pins. Anybody have suggestions on where to mount them exactly? Also, what are some good value hood pins? I'd like them black, but I can paint over any other finish.

I have a 73 240z with a small block 327 with a points distributor right now. I have more than 1 inch of clearance between the dizzy and the firewall right now. How much extra space will I need for a GM HEI unit? I've read that 11/16's is how much closer the HEI unit will be to the firewall. How about vertical clearance? Also, the wiring seems very confusing, especially integrating it to the 240z side. Can anyone give me a guide through this process? I know that my tach will probably not work after this, so I will also need to look for new one. And if I take my dash off, I'm going to want to replace all the gauges. What is a good value set of gauges? Thanks, Wilson

I have a 69 sbc with a short water pump. I'm trying to fit my alternator in my z; what mount works? Thanks

Thank bjhines, your info is very useful. This is my current situation: I'm pretty sure it is the stock alternator. The right terminal is "A" and the left terminal is "E." From w = v x a, my HID's pull about 12 amps if I have all 4 on. I have a deck installed, nothing fancy, something you would find anywhere. So this is what I want to do: replace the alternator with a higher amperage one, probably a 3 wire GM model (around 100 amps). What I want to know is: can I attach the factory wire loom AND a wire from the alternator directly to the battery? In the case of the stock alternator, what I would be suggesting is keeping the factory wire on "A" and then adding a new wire from "A" directly to the Battery + terminal. If this were to work, would I add a terminal block for accessories off the battery or "A" on the alternator? Would this method bypass the factory loom for the accessories to pull enough power without setting wires on fire? If this doesn't work, then I will go with what bjhines has suggested, but I am a visual learner, and I can't seem to picture the set up you suggested here: "You can remove the AMP gauge and connect the two heavy gauge wires using a brass bolt and nut(insulate the connection when done). Then connect the Factory BATT and ALT wires near the firewall and make all power-circuit branches at the firewall distribution block. ie. New ALT wire(with fuseable link 6g), New BATT wire(with fuseable link 6g), Factory ALT wire(w/fuseable link 10g), Factory BATT wire(w/FL 10g), Additional power wires(fused individually), etc(fused ind)." Can you or someone make a simple cartoon of this set up (besides the connecting of the 2 ammeter wires)? Keep in mind that I will be doing this with a new GM 3 wire alternator. I have not figured out how to wire one of those yet. Again, thank you to all for the help. I don't think I could have done so much on my Z without the help of the HybridZ community. Here's a couple pics of my car as it is now:

Thank bjhines, your info is very useful. This is my current situation: I'm pretty sure it is the stock alternator. The right terminal is "A" and the left terminal is "E." From w = v x a, my HID's pull about 12 amps if I have all 4 on. I have a deck installed, nothing fancy, something you would find anywhere. So this is what I want to do: replace the alternator with a higher amperage one, probably a 3 wire GM model (around 100 amps). What I want to know is: can I attach the factory wire loom AND a wire from the alternator directly to the battery? In the case of the stock alternator, what I would be suggesting is keeping the factory wire on "A" and then adding a new wire from "A" directly to the Battery + terminal. If this were to work, would I add a terminal block for accessories off the battery or "A" on the alternator? Would this method bypass the factory loom for the accessories to pull enough power without setting wires on fire? If this doesn't work, then I will go with what bjhines has suggested, but I am a visual learner, and I can't seem to picture the set up you suggested here: "You can remove the AMP gauge and connect the two heavy gauge wires using a brass bolt and nut(insulate the connection when done). Then connect the Factory BATT and ALT wires near the firewall and make all power-circuit branches at the firewall distribution block. ie. New ALT wire(with fuseable link 6g), New BATT wire(with fuseable link 6g), Factory ALT wire(w/fuseable link 10g), Factory BATT wire(w/FL 10g), Additional power wires(fused individually), etc(fused ind)." Can you or someone make a simple cartoon of this set up (besides the connecting of the 2 ammeter wires)? Keep in mind that I will be doing this with a new GM 3 wire alternator. I have not figured out how to wire one of those yet. Again, thank you to all for the help. I don't think I could have done so much on my Z without the help of the HybridZ community. Here's a pic of my car as it is now:

So if I'm reading this correctly, hooking things up to the battery increases voltage drop (more wiring) than to the alternator? What should I have hooked up to the battery (starter, amplifier wire)? How do I hook other electronics up to the alternator, such as power for HID's (I have relays to turn on with the 240z harness)?

Thanks guys. I will be reading up on all this stuff as soon as time permits (finals and junk). Hopefully will have a good running v8z to bring down to LA next quarter. Still need to swap my turbo 350 for a 700r4 though...

I have a 1973 240z with a 69' sbc. I have a stereo system (with capacitor and amp) and a couple sets of HID's on the car. I think my alternator is not recharging the battery well, so I was thinking of getting a new chevy 1 wire alternator. Is this a good idea, and what would I need to do? I have to remove the voltage regulator, correct? Also, my alternator mount has the alternator almost right up against the passenger side wheel well. What other affordable mounts will work? I don't even know where my starter solenoid is or where the starter is. Sorry, I'm at school right now, 350 miles away from my car. I just want to get this info together so that I can work on it right when I get home for Thanksgiving (yes I will be spending lots of time with the family) or Christmas. Thanks Wilson

What is that silver block in the middle of the picture (not the HID ballasts) with the 2 wires attached to it?

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