gjc5500
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Posts posted by gjc5500
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The harness comming from the dizzy goes to the box, red from the box goes to + and yellow to the -. the power for the coil has to come from the tach
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So i found a 700r4 that imma go look at on friday for the z. the guy wants 100 for it with a TC
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Converter lockup makes a physical connection between the engine and transmission instead of the fluid coupler. makes for better highway fuel economy and better emissions.
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I just got the motor for now. i plan on building it out of the car and getting everything for the swap before i pull my old motor out. I still am not gonna start the swap till i get another car to drive while my car is down
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I was thinking about the 700r4 but i cant find one cheap(gonna rebuild it myself).
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Two days ago i was helping my friend sell a car to another friend of mine. We went around back for a smoke and BOOM. 350 sbc just sitting there. blah blah blah, it is now sitting at my house for free waiting to be built and put in the z. Working on shorts amounts of money but wondering what the cheapest trans is that will work with the z (auto or 5spd.)
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imma say do it. looks good. prolly will have blind spots though
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thats kinda what i figured. now would the car handle better without it till i can get a airdam?
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Check the linkage, make sure its not bound. also check the idle set screw.
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I was installing some fog lights on my 240 and started looking at the front valance(under the grill) and it appears to me that it would generate lift. is this correct?
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Thanks for the input. ill prolly just get a set of h4's for my z
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exactly. i was thinking of using the lights currently in the car, cutting the bulb out, and fiberglassing a new socket in the back
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I was thinking about it right now, for us old z owners we have to replace the whole housing. so i think i'm going to make a housing using a honda bulb socket allowing for removal of the bulb itself, also making the price of bulbs cheaper. any thoughts before i do this?
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It looks like one of those "JDM" tow hooks you see on hondas all the time.
Want to see finished product with lights.
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The rim was bad. i decided to take a look at it a little closer. the holes were worn badly and just very loose on the shank. so im running 1 steel wheel now. i would like to get 3 more just so they match, so if you know a cheap place to get some, let me know.
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when i had the wheel on another tire. it broke all 4 about 3 times each over a period of 6 months. I did have a problem with the shanks bottoming out before on another wheel but i use shorter lugs now. also, from that back corner i get a very bad vibration with speed and i have to keep torquing the lugs.
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the wheels are on the car in my sig. i assumed they were welds because it has weld centercaps. yes they are shanked lugs.
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I think I am going crazy. i have a set of weld aluminum slotted wheels on my 240, but one of them, no mater where i put it, will break studs on that hub. its taken as little time as 2 days to do it. i cant figure out why it is doing this. please help me.
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motor sport auto sells flares. im not sure if thats what you want. post pics of what you want.
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cries......
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When i was 17 and got my s30, i had 1 at fault accident and my insurance was $84/month
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fast back.
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I was thinking about making some s13 lights fit back there. I think i could get it to fit if i cut the center section down.
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Ok. glad we could help. i wish someone had started this thread when i got the carbs. :/
L Series technical video
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
do want. i need to OH my datsan