Git-y-up

Datsun by Crashing_Thunder, on Flickr Here is mine:)

Count me in aswell, about to do MS on my 280z and would love to run a triger ignition system

Thank you Tony D and others for you patient help with your post and links. I have solved my woes regarding my charging problems. Quite a simple fix really. Ends up the charge wire's crimped on o-ring connector had failed and was therefore arcing. I am greatful i did not try to drive this car with this problem because the fuel regulator is so close to the alternator and was leaking slightly. Now i have no fuel leek and a working alternator. All is well One piece of knowledge I have acquired that I would just like to clear up. The internal regulator of the Alternator need both the F and N terminals connected to work. The F is power and the N is from the light but starts at the ignition, the light just provides resistance and lowers the 12v from the ignition. With out the charge light, you need an inline resistor.

Its interesting that I have no charge light but the N terminal has a wire. Ill have to trace it. Where does the white main feed go from the alternator?

What is the RF surpressors main function? What makes it not necessary?

I have a 75 280, does the ammeter have a charging light? Is the charging light what you mean by warning light?

Time for a little update. When looking at the wires connected to the alternator I noticed that one of the terminals had been soldered to a blue wire that is crimped to a white/red strip wire. (i believe its a #10) The soldering was only holding on to a single strand of the wire. Here are a few pictures, im looking to find out what each wire does, if this is the weak link and how can i clean it all up. Here are the 3 wires that connect to the alternator. DSC_0004 by Crashing_Thunder, on Flickr Notice the blue wire that is crimped to the red/white, that is the wire that was soldered to this terminal: 1317153368437 by Crashing_Thunder, on Flickr What kind of terminal is this? And is it necessary to reuse a similar one?

Nice idea, I will be doing that. Now its time for an update. Uninstalled the alteranator and was surprised to find it to be a non nissan unit. Mitsubishi AG2050N. Its a 50amp alternator. DSC_0002 by Crashing_Thunder, on Flickr DSC_0001 by Crashing_Thunder, on Flickr Anyone know what the previous owner might have done when installing this alternator? and where to start looking for changes to the charging system? I am a very visual person and appreciate pictures greatly.

That is exactly what has been done. Alternator is comming off and being rebuilt, let you all know how this works out.

Just a little detail,On the lighting system, I didn't run the black wire to a chassis ground, ran it all the way back to the battery. Is this potentially a hazard or problem?

http://www.dapperlighting.com/installation.html These are the lights I have installed. Ill go check the voltage amp draw and report the numbers as soon as possible.

http://www.dapperlighting.com/installation.html These are the lights I have installed. Ill go check the voltage amp draw and report the numbers as soon as possible.

Apology accepted Mate

If you knew my car was a 280z why even put that post up if it wont have any use to me? Come on man

Thank you Tony, my 280 z does have an AMMETER and not a voltage meter... Is it only the wiring that differs between the 240 - 280, or has someone litterally taking the voltage metter out and put an ammeter in my 1975 280z??

DSC00513 by Crashing_Thunder, on Flickr

So basically current has to go around the world before it reaches the battery haha. I believe I have a complex issue here where more than one thing needs to be addressed to get complete healthy stable voltage at IDLE and REDLINE.

This is an example of what I mean, random wire colors and crimped connections. This is normal? DSC00498 by Crashing_Thunder, on Flickr

I'm metering directly at the battery with my leads on + and -.

Thanks Rejracer, You have opened my eyes to what I can do to clean my electrical mess. I am finding wires that are spliced and crimped. Now im thinking my problem could be more than Alternator related. Is there any threads out there that souly talk about cleaning and simplifying a 280z wiring? My wiring harness looks teribly tampered with.

Thank you gents for replying, currently I will be testing both alternator and battery. 65 amps doesn't seem alot for a stock car to run any other accesories. Thank you for the links, Ill revive this thread if I need to.

Im using 16 guage for the HID + and - feed wires

Thanks for the quick reply oddman. If i wasnt having this problem with my original Halogen's how are lower power consuming HID lights going to tax my altenator?

Hello everyone. Need help diagnosing an electrical problem with my 1975 280z. I have installed new HID projectors sourced through ben1080(great chap). My voltage at idle is a good 12.5 V. The problem starts when I turn on accesories like my marker lights; voltage drops to 12.3-12.17. When I turn on full headlights the voltage drops again; 12.01. If I leave all accesories on at idle long enough(10-15 mins) the voltage drops low enough that my idle drops from 800rpm to 500 rpm and the engine stalls and won't start without a boost. I can understand that electrical problems can be hard to diagnose, but id be very appreciative if I could get some help. Thanks hybrid.