RennWerksMotorsports-Mike

As long a s the chopper wheel, especially the little slits are free of debris, its OK. Did you adjust the TPS back to factory spec. It should read voltage at idle.

Hey Z heads. Our shop 83 ZX has long since been heavily modified after the 300zx ECM Conversion, but this is what I remember. Before you adjust the MAF, do this simple adjustment first. Set Base Timing of the distributor. Ours had to be almost fully advanced in the slotted holes at the base of the distributor. i.e. rotate the Distributor base counter clockwise. Next, there is a tiny little throttle stop screw on the TB (throttle body) by the return spring linkage. Adjust that to stabilize the car. When using the 60mm 240sx tb, we threaded the throttle stop hole for a longer M4 allen head screw. With the car at operating temperature, Adjust the throttle screw slowly (kinda like a carb) until the idle stabilizes, then snap the throttle and let the computer stabilize the idle for about half a minute. We used a gas analyzer to double check our work, but a good ear and sense is just as well. Connect a Volt meter to the TPS (throttle position sensor). You may have to adjust the TPS after adjusting the throttle plate, to get it back to its proper idle setting. The 300zx ECM has plenty of room in its programming to compensate for the adjustment. Adjusting the MAF should be a last resort in this situation as it can throw your fuel trim off during the entire throttle/load range.

I still haven't figured out why I still choose the Z--maybe I like to be different, the ease of repair, the classic styling, the bullet proof and torquey engine that never gives up. Hey, I am a Z junky-Hehe

I work with bimmer engines every day for street and racing. Here is the nitty gritty. Don Devendorf and Electramotive and a some tuners from Japan have all made their L28ET Z cars make over 700hp and Electramotive as high as 850hp. The difference is that in the M50/M52 ( M56 is normally in M3 E36 Bimmer as a 3.0/3.2L engine) which is a 2.5L/2.8L, has twin cams with intake (vanos) at variable timing. The cylinder head is an efficient cross flow head with 4 valves per cylinder. What does this all mean. The Bimmer has a broader maximum band with greater levels of volumetric efficiency at many more places within it powerband and because of the intake valve timing , it can do away with the power robbing egr system. Yes, a stock M50 and M52 powered bimmer has no egr. The z car at a similar level of tuning can make the same power, but its max power will be most likely at periods of short spikes in the power band and not like the broad smooth power curve as in the bimmer. Keep in mind that the aluminum block bimmers have more bearing journals to make up for the loss in strenght of the iron blocks. All E36 cars were typically iron bottom ends until 1996 ( but many E36 still had iron blocks after 1996. The IS/Sport version was your only garuntee of an aluminum block). All M series were full aluminum blocks, except for the first gen M6. Oh, and another note, where the L28 needs the intake manifold to be ported or a better one custom made, 1994-5 plastic intake manifolds of the bimmer are so smooth flowing that no modifications are neccessary. Later models had too much smog junk added which inhibited the great flow of the original manifold-~~~~~~my 2.5 cents

Your description of your installation is bit unclear. I would have to see a close-up picture to help give you some advice. Here is what I can tell you as of now. -as long as the injectors and o-rings are firmly seated and pressed to the manifold, you should be ok. 1.check all the vaccum lines, gaskets, intake piping, and injector bosses (seals) for air leaks ~~~~use a smoke machine, or spray the everywhere with soapy water, or better yet spray all connections with carb cleaner and listen for the engine to smooth out--be careful, this technique can be hazardous-keep a fire extinguisher handy. I have never had a fire doing this, but I know those who have. Just be careful not to spray the exhaust or egr piping. 2. EGR system can cause all kinds of missfire problems, stumbling, hesistation, and lack of power depending on the severity of failure. To test::: connect a vaccum gauge/pump (like a Mityvac from an auto parts store) to the egr vaccum port. Create 20in/hg of vaccum. The Egr should hold vaccum for atleast 30 seconds, if not, replace the egr valve. Reason being in cold temp and under load, especially under turbo boost, a weak egr diaphragm can cause the egr to open at undesired times and create the problems you have mentioned. If these don't solve your problems, hit me back and I will give you more advice and diagnostic procedures.

Thanks. I'll give ArizonaZ a call.

I let you know Friday.

Cool! Ya Mitz went out there. I stayed back her for the weekend fixing our Spec 5 Shelby Cobras for NASA and CSR/DSR cars for SCCA.

Oh- I can also provide the diagrams for any year of car that is desired from 1982 and up.

I have complete wiring diagrams for both cars 280zx and z31. I will post them to my website and let you all know.

Yes, we had a Porsche Cup Car, a 997. No, I did not work there in 2004. I was hired on recently to help expand their business needs. I believe (not sure) I may have met a guy named Tommy while working as Crew Cheif for their race DSR/CSR races at Thunderhill a few weeks ago. We have recent racing picks posted at p2m-motorsports.com/Motorsports/

Working on it. As I prepare one of my car for SCCA, I will be doing a lot of customizing. I already have plans to start designing lighter control arms, if I have too many problems swapping a 300zx 2nd gen rear suspension.

Hi all, After checking out the forum many times, I have finally took some time to join it. Most of the discussion here seem honest, knowledgeable , and informative, which is more than I can say about some other popular z carand tuning sites. A little about myself: I am a master technician for a racing and european performance shop in Campbell, Ca (RennWerks Motorsports). I also am building my own performance parts retail web site P2M-Motorsports.com. I love european cars, but have a soft spot for Datsun/Nissan Z cars. I currently own my 5th and 6th z cars. Both are 280zx turbos. One is being built for street and show and the other is for the track. The other 4, well, they all had sad fates/~~endings ranging from a fire to theft and one which was impounded. I have seen many of your projects in here and I commend you all on your hard work. I will be happy to answer questions here and most times you will probably see my posts trying to get quick answers to questions that I may have. Sincerely, Mike

Hi all, Has anyone installed this on their zx yet? How well made is the kit? Was there any problems? Were you satisfied? Any opinions... If all is good then I'll buy it. It will save me some time and money fabricating. My 2 cents: I know for most it may be old news, but I am sad to find that ArizonaZ sold their IMSA ZX molds. Those were part of my build up plan for my ZX.

Not sure. I think I may just stick with my 83 zx turbo cv. Keeps things simpler for now. They are good enough. If you want the 300zx cv's, I could grab them for you. I gotta remove them anyways.

Thank you. But why grab a diff with a 3.9. It would cost me more money to replace it with a new gear set with a 3.7:1 ratio than if I just went straight for the 3.7. The 3.9 would deffinately hurt my acceleration and top speed times. 3.7 is as Low (high) as I want to go.

Did a couple searches and found the diff list, but it didn't say which year and tranny each ratio was offered. I found a fresh 89 300zx turbo with an automatic tranny sitting at the parts yard. It came directly from a dealership. Cool beans!! I want to rip out the limited slip diff tomorrow morning, but I need to be sure what ratio it is before I go wasting my time. 3.45, 3.7, or 3.9????

Had one in my '79 zx and haven't seen one since.

That is certainly another option, but then I would be enticed to swap 350z power and drivetrain or 300zxtt. I feel a hole burning in my pocket.....ouch

I've done searches but didn't find an answer to my question. Has anyone here had any experience with rebuilding the ZX T5 with stronger aftermarket gear sets offered for pony cars (Mustangs and Camaros)? Can I retain the same input and output shafts for the ZXT? Allow me to elaborate:) As far as my understanding goes the 280ZXT trannys used thrust washers with cylindrical bearings on the counter shaft and there is no bearings under each gear and the bronze Syncros.---I have not rebuilt a T5 non-world class yet. I have only done T5 world class trannys. The T5 world class trannys use tapered bearings to replace the bronze thrust washers. Needle bearings were installed under 1,2, and 3rd gears. To get to the point...I need to know if the shafts in the T5 NWC of the 280ZXT and T5 WC of later pony cars use the same grooving and journals before I blow my wad on a high-end aftermarket rebuild kit. Otherwise I may have to get an imput shaft custom made and swap bell housings with a pony car tranny.