grumpyvette

As long as the lines after the split are reasonably short and don,t leak it should be fine, the exact config. is not that important its just important that the internal passages are fairly non-restrictive to flow, and you use some flexiable line to account for engine movement in the correct location. If the main line from the tank to the pump and pump to spliter that almost reaches the engines a 1/2" line and only fairly short 3/8" lines are used, you should be ok. Where guys get into problems in most cases is use of fittings and connectors with passages that are 5/16" or even 1/4" internally, rather than the 3/8" or larger.

What IS IT,exactly that you are trying to accomplish and WHY??

ID suggest AN fittings for fuel injection because the fuel pressure is far higher at 40-PSI or more on most systems

IVE USED THESE 1/2" tees in 1/2" ID fuel lines FOR YEARS, never had the least problems with CARB applications where fuel pressure is under 6 psi normally http://www.plumbingsupply.com/barb.html don,t forget the clamps THESE ARE BETTER http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/an824.php now ILL be the first guy to suggest #8 AN fittings are superior, especially on complete #8 AN lines but you won,t have problems in most applications under 600hp with either (T)

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=OTC%2D6503&N=700+4294909979+115&autoview=sku http://www.carcraft.com/howto/50919/index.html http://www.toolfetch.com/tube-flaring-tools.shtml http://www.autorepairmanuals.biz/site/573683/product/MTC71400 http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=55&t=211 Heres some tools that might help, but before you go spending money on flare tools you might want to know that most hydraulic supply stores can fabricate really nice fuel lines with AN connectors at very reasonable prices if you measure things carefully. "Grumpy, theoretically, what is the maximum horse power that a -6AN fuel line can support? " Meaning -6 all the way from the tank to the pump and from the pump to regulator, regulator to carb. Is there a point at which the -6AN fuel line will not support XX HP, regardless of the pump used? Thanks, Phil Ive seldom used fittings and lines that small,on anything I intended to race,seriously (usually use 8AN) so I called the tech guys at EDELBROCK and at RUSSELL, both tech guys felt that if everything was optimal you could probably get to 600 hp with the correct pumps, and ,filters and fuel pressure regulators

are you refering to plumbing pipe like cast iron,3/8" NP thread type pipe, or fuel line tubeing? (that can be flared?) if its pipe thread, you can screw an adapter fitting into a double female collar between the two http://www.aeromotiveinc.com/products.php?prod=77

On HOLLEYS, IN many cases the off idle hesitation is a badly adjusted accelerator pump or a accelerator pump that’s too small, low fuel pressure,low fuel volume,the wrong float level, the wrong power valve or an ignition advance curve that needs work. A few basic tests and reading spark plugs, helps as does having decent tools like a timing light and a/f ratio meter or a IR temp gun, and a vacume gauge, fuel pressure gauge, compression tester,ETC. Having experiance and knowing how to find vacume leaks, badly adjusted valves and knowing how to degree in a cam won,t hurt either. http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=44&t=773&p=1123#p1123

A super charger installed on that engine will require a great deal more flow capacity in a carb,than a n/a application will require, generally a vacume secondary holley 750cfm works really well on almost all 350-383 sbc engine, applications and vacume secondaries may help the responsiveness once its correctly tuned.

LOTS of guys have both hood clearance issues and a desire to keep their hood looking stock, but want to run a healthy nitrous system, on their dual plane factory intake so they won’t need to add a hood scoop. If your going to use a single spray bar nitrous system under the carb, a high rise single plane with a direct line of site shot from the plenum to the back of the intake valve in the heads is the PREFERED route with NITROUS I generally use this SBC intake. http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=HLY%2D300%2D110&autoview=sku or this one http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=HLY%2D9901%2D101%2D1&N=700+303894+115&autoview=sku no the injector bungs are not a direct fit to the fogger nozzles but it speeds the conversion. http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=NOS%2D02001NOS&N=700+115&autoview=sku But since you’ve got clearance issues and choose not to swap intakes, you can EITHER have the divider in the dual plane plenum removed by almost any milling machine equipped machine shop and have a reasonable component that should function, reasonably well, or take a different route, like I point out below, I doubt the dual plane/single spray bar will be AS effective at fuel/air ratio control but it should function, and there’s lots of guys doing that, so its not doing something totally new. OR you can insure equal fuel/air distribution and decent power with a direct port nitrous set up. Where, you’ll have each intake runner equipped /with a threaded bung with its own fogger nozzle. http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=NOS%2D02462NOS&N=700+115&autoview=sku on BBC engines I’ve generally used the HOLLEY EFI intakes as they are pre set up to some extent. http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=HLY%2D9901%2D209&N=700+303894+115&autoview=sku IF you don’t remove the plenum divider in the dual plane intake plenum, there’s a BETTER chance of having distribution issues but there’s lots of guys doing it successfully so it can be done, only testing will tell. BTW MOST FOGGER NOZZLES ARE THREADED FOR 1/16" N/P THREAD, so youll still need welding or epoxy to get them adapted & installed

OK, first theres dozens of dip stick lengths, dipstick tube lengths and pan depths so you always need to verify both before matching them up. Next, once the engine starts up and runs for a minute theres about 2 qts of oil in the upper engine, oil passages,oil filter, valve covers and lifter gallery, and not in the oil pan. Generally an oil pan like that will function just fine on most cars,with 6 qts or 5 qts, but if youve got the skills, time, creative desire, and a welder you can usually add extra capacity after careful measurment rather easily. http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=54&t=65

http://www.midwestmotorsportsinc.com/order_part.php?item=30720&line=MIL http://www.kevko.net/ford.htm http://www.flatlanderracing.com/index.html (Oil Pans/ Accessories)(Oil Pans/Accessories - ProLine ) ($69?) I don,t do much FORD stuff. but these guys usually have good prices

Goodyear Goodrich Michelin Bridgestone Dunlop Firestone Pirelli Nitto Yokohama Uniroyal Falken Kelly-Springfield select from these brands above and pick what you feel is the top three brands of truck tires ,using your experiance

http://www.goodson.com/ these guys have a help line that I use on occasion that might help PERSONALLY I would NOT think of doing it without a decent DRILL PRESS ,that had a depth control at a MINIMUM,and a milling machine with a screw feed table vice would be VASTLY prefered and I certainly would NOT attempt it with a hand held drill,and a way to hold the head and move it in a solid rest with little or no varance between the differant cylinders on angle or depth. THATS ONE REASON IM LOOKING INTO FINDING A USED MILLING MACHINE or thinking about one of these, yeah! I know cheap chinese tools, but Im not using them constantly and can take my time and although ID rather find a decent CINCINATI or BRIDGEPORT,or similar AMERICAN machine IVE yet to find a decent deal. http://www.grizzly.com/products/g6760 http://www.grizzly.com/products/g3617 http://www.grizzly.com/products/g3616 LOOKING AT THESE FOR THE SHOP......COMMENTS , COMPARING THEM OR OPTIONS and sources of used milling machines are WELCOME

Converting the rotating belts energy from the spinning crank, into electricity with the alt, and the electricity back into rotating energy to drive the water pump, is bound to reduce efficiency over just using the belt to drive the water pump. Besides electric water pumps rarely flow enough water to cool as effectively as the better belt driven water pumps.

your correct the water pump induces far more resistance to rotation than an altenator , and Ive seen guys run on the track without the alt, but it tends to be a problem if you run for long as even slightly low voltage in a battery will reduce the ignitions effective spark, and running a larger battery adds significant extra weight.

http://www.cranecams.com/?show=browseParts&action=partSpec&partNumber=119841&lvl=2&prt=5 107+117=224/2=112

OK first, stop getting worried crazy, this is a very common job at good machine shops,they do all the time. You just hand them the ARP studs and THEY mill the heads and thread the holes and install the guide plates and studs, usually for well under $100, if you supply the studs and guide plates.(or you can let them supply the guide plates) http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=ISK%2D200%2DAGP&autoview=sku these are great because they allow you to adjust the pushrod alignment Next, the height or length of the studs above the milled surface the guide plates are clamped against is almost not a critical issue as the guide plate location vertically on the pushrods has a good deal of allowable variation and ARP studs are DESIGNED to extend up further because they ASSUME that many guys will use a set of roller rockers with jam nuts and a rocker stud girdle which requires the extended height. MOST valve covers have more than enought extra clearance.

SURE you can use a chevy 400 block, it just won,t be as strong, and once you get the machine work done it will probably cost almost what the dart block costs ($1500) BTW theres lots cheaper dart blocks than $5k http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=DRT%2D31161211&N=700+115&autoview=sku http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=51&t=47 keep in mind the object of the combo is NOT peak hp, its responcive and instant tire smoking torque, in a street driven sbc combo

ID suggest starting at 8-9 degrees at idle and full advance of 36-37 degrees at 3000-3200 rpm. that should allow easy starts and good torque durring accelleration with less chance of detonation. http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=70&t=232

OK first. Point. IM not the world’s best EFI programmer, AND anytime IM not a decent source ILL just refer you to a better one, if I can, as there’s no chance I want to B.S. anyone!. even I ask for help frequently......I prefer MAF as I think its a bit more flexible, and forgiving …. ID suggest you ask DOUG FLYNN on this SITE, http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showforum.php?fid/35/keyword/Fuel_Injection/ he’s HOLLEYS ENGINEER and TECH GUY, I think you’ll get more precise info than I can give you. the whole IDEA it to get you the best answer and in that case its refering you to an expert.

You’ll loose a small bit of crispness in the throttle response but with tuning its really minimal. Don’t get the idea EITHER size carb is going to be far better than the other in EITHER combo, as the engine needs more airflow or needs less it simply sucks more, or less thru the carbs venturies and the carb flows more, or less in either case you’ll rarely find your truly restricted.

Looking at your posted combo, Id say a 600cfm-650cfm mechanical secondary would be fine, but if your going to do a lot more mods in the future ID strongly suggest the 700cfm-or even a 750 cfm, to leave room for future needs, as it won’t hurt the current combo noticeably with that edelbrock performer rpm air gap 6spd manual trans and 3.90 rear end. .

Holleys generally cost less, than demons, but that’s NOT how you select carburetors, you figure out what you need for your application, first, and buy that or look for one you can buy at a swap meet, Craig’s list, in the local classifieds, ETC. you don,t settle for something you find at a good or the best price on the wrong carburetor, as it gains you very little! and a great (DEAL) on the wrong carb, can cause you constant problems. now that being said, youll seldom have problems with a vacume secondary holley or demon carb .in the 700cfm-850cfm range on a performance sbc application if the correct intake, cam,heads, drive train gearing and low restriction exhaust is used in the build, while it might not get you to your full potential, its certainly going to function if your decent a tunning the combo, if theres nothing wrong with the rest of the combo. now on the BLOCK, take it to a local shop for cleaning, inspection,and if it passed inspection, have new cam bearings installed, theres no sence dumping more money into the build UNTILL your sure the blocks solid and reuseable. http://www.holley.com/applications/CarburetorSelector/CarbSelection.asp http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=51&t=125

If you were local Id suggest you bring it over, here to check it out. my first wild guess (THERES DARN LITTLE INFO TO WORK WITH) is that its either a carb float level or fuel pressure problem or a stuck needle & seat issue, possiably a intermitant vacume leak. mechanical problems generally only get worse , once they occure, if its clearing up, its generally moisture in the ignition a loose ground or carb related, all clean up at times with heat or cooling from the engine, temp. but carb issues can get worse after the engine sits a bit and cooks with engine heat and fuel drains or over flows from that heat, into the intake and plugs foul,then clear as more heat and air flow tend to clear out the excess fuel in the engine, and burn the plugs clean.

a 700cfm-750cfm HOLLEY OR DEMON CARB is usually the best performance choice on a SBC thats a street/strip combo, but a 750cfm-850cfm can be used very effectively on more radical combos, carb size is NOT nearly a critical as some guys pretend, the, displacement, heads,cam,compression and headers used, will effect results.