grumpyvette

stock rods are generally safe for brief periods at 4000 fpm of piston speed, on a 350 thats about 6700rpm, on a 383 thats about 6400rpm, IE, just before you shift the engine reaches that rpm level for an instant, it doesn,t mean you can safely buzz the engine in first gear at that rpm level traveling down the freeway and not expect to throw a rod! and hydraulic lifters usually get into valve float in a stock valve train config, at or below 6200rpm, so keep that in mind if you go the hydraulic lifter route the hydraulic cam makes its best power in the 3500rpm-5800rpm band the solid lifter cam adds an additional 500-600rpm MINIMUM, but the heads, intake, headers etc will effect results also

once youve got a decent solid lifter cam correctly adjusted you generally won,t need any further adjustments for several months of street driving, the solid lifter cams are very easy to work with once you develope the skills and easily add an additional 600-1000 extra rpm, making them well woth the minor extra work. heres a similar hydralic http://www.crower.com/misc/cam_spec/cam_finder.php?part_num=00273&x=48&y=2 either will work in your application but why cheat yourself out of the extra rpm range, remember the objects to get the car faster with more responsive easily accessable torque and a decent torque curve not necessarly just higher peak hp.

14010203...305...80-85...2 bolt mains not sure on the pistons but cpr around 8.5:1 was comon at that time

do you want a solid lifter flat tappet (WHICH ID SUGGEST) that will produce a good deal of power but have a lopey idle, can you deal with a solid lifter config?if so Id try this http://www.crower.com/misc/cam_spec/cam_finder.php?part_num=00350&x=59&y=7

drop back to basics, do you have compression in all cylinders?(how much??) did you CORRECTLY set the valves? are you sure the cams degreed in correctly? are you getting spark at the plugs?(did you set the timing?) do you have fuel pressure"? if the carb full? Are the float levels set correctly? have you verified the voltage at the coil? checked for vacume leaks? is there fuel at the carb boosters, does it squirt fuel when the accellerator pumps worked by hand? does the engine spin over? are you getting a minimum of 10 psi of oil pressure? do you have coolant in the radiator,block, etc, are all the dash gauges reading?

run a steel tape meassure thru the serpentine pullies the belt will run on, and meassure the length required, remember to move the belt tenssioner in, too make the true length needed before the belts put under tension, the parts guy can easily use that info to sellect the correct belt

first check the sensor connections its not un-heard of to have a bad connection, shorted or open connections, the fuel pump should not run if the ignitions not in the on- possition, verify with a vom meter that the pumps not getting power when the keys removed. next find the source of the fuel leak, yes as you surmised itmight be a leaky injector but that may not be the only problem. remove the new ,old oil, and replace it carefully checking for new fuel contamination after, a few days, running fuel oil mix will quickly destroy rings

the first step in fixing any oil leak is finding the source, of that leak, theres several suspects on the rear of the block. youll want to verify whats leaking, potential sources a rear main seal installed facing the wrong dirrection , the wrong oil pan, the wrong oil pan, gasket ,the wrong oil filter, the wrong oil filter adapter, or improper installation, or forgetting to connect or plug a passage jumps to mind one old trick is to clean the area with carb cleaner , that tends to leave a dry surface and then dust it with talcum powder , use a strong light and have a buddy spin the oil pump, tracks in the talc dust make it easier to find the source look at rear intake manifold seal rear cam freeze plug oil passage plugs oil temp sensor oil pressure sensor pressure sensor threads oil pan gasket rear main seal oil filter adapter oil filter this might help locate the source http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=126081 http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=54&t=206&p=242#p242

This is an excellent example of a thread that helps the newer guys to swapping engines with clear photos and an informative info in the thread.

before you start slapping parts together you need to understand why and how things work, buy these books it will be the best money yopu spend http://www.themotorbookstore.com/resmchstvi.html http://www.amazon.com/Build-Performance-Blocks-Budget-Design/dp/1884089348/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1237418162&sr=1-2 http://www.amazon.com/Smokey-Yunicks-Power-Secrets-Yunick/dp/0931472067/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1237418221&sr=1-1 http://www.amazon.com/John-Lingenfelter-Modifying-Chevy-Engines/dp/155788238X/ref=sr_1_33?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1237418309&sr=1-33

first id want to know the application, IE manual or auto trans, and your intended purpose for the engine, getting 300hp from a decent 327 is fairly easy and those camel hump heads are fine at that hp level, but they are also 40-50 years old and may not be rebuildable are a reasonable cost to value ratio, IE you might pay more to rebuild them than the heads are worth. Id be glad to work out a decent combo if I get more valid info

7-9 psi will almost always overcome the needle & seat and constantly flood the carb, that is probably the source of your major problem, install a RETURN STYLE fuel pressure regulator, and a line back to the tank or at least back to a TEE thats located befort the pump intake point http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/category_10001_10002_10019_-1_10267?sendroicid=bbef8492-2d00-41d6-b158-38db0de2603c&sendroiad=3824188001&sendroikwd=Fuel+Line&gclid=CNrLsez3opkCFQudnAodtC_cpQ these cheap ones, that are dead head style seldom work well http://www.jegs.com/p/Holley/745059/10002/-1 much better http://www.jegs.com/i/Mallory/650/4307M/10002/-1 http://www.jegs.com/InstallationInstructions/600/650/650-4307M.pdf

first step is verifying the fuel pressure is in the 4-5.5 psi range and the floats are correctly adjusted, a RETURN STYLE fuel pressure regulator with a byepass line back to the tank is almost MANDATORY for maintaining consistant fuel pressure, and having a gauge to check/verify not guessing IS MANDATORY

the injectors will not function without about 40 psi of fuel pressure, the cpu won,t supply the pulse without seeing 5 psi of oil pressure, and having the fuel rails pressurized is mandatory this might help http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=55&t=1241&p=3037#p3037

while IVE used several differant designs in engine cranes successfully at differant locations I can assure you that there is a big differance in how well they work, that "red torin " is fully able to get the job done, (FOR THAT MATTER A LARGE TREE AND ONE OF THESE, CHAIN HOISTS WILL WORK) http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=631 http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=33003 but its not so much a question of if it can be done, with some types of equipment as it is of can it be done SAFELY and EASILY, and the larger stands are noticably more stabile and have a longer reach,they lift the engine higher and are less likely to have clearance issues from some angles, or reach thier lift limit befiore the engine clears the engine compartment

http://www.autoweek.com/article/20090227/CARNEWS/902279984 looks like good news

Are you seriously suggesting that your buddy says, he can tell when the ring gaps line on the pistons , by the way the car runs, and he has NOT pulled the short block down and carefully inspected each rod and piston and the condition of each cylibnder and piston and rod,too verify that that is indeed the case? HAS HE DONE A LEAK DOWN TEST ON THE BLOCK whats to say the rings are not binding in thier grouves? the end gaps are not butting under high heat? the rings are warped, or not correctly clearanced? the recess behind the rings is not carboned up? the pistons not overheating and expanding due to detonation? the side clearances are not correct? the piston pins not binding in the piston or rods? the bearing clearances on the rods is not consistant? the blocks not align honed? the cranks warped" theres a valve train problem? whats the surface of the cylinder hone pattern suggest is the cause? was the block honed with a deck plate torqued in place? were ALL the cylinder walls checked for thickness? was the block deck verified as strait and level? or a dozen other factors I can think of? without careful inspection and verification, theres a strong tendency to relie on GUESSING and thats almost always related to spending a good deal of wasted time and money

I don,t know where your located but if your fairly close you can borrow one of my hoists for a few days. be VERY CAREFUL, because a DECENT hoist need not be real expensive but theres some dangerious junk on the market renting one is a waste as they frequently rent for about 1/4 of there total cost per day, youll find you paided for it and don,t own it after a long drawn out swap or several easy ones, and youll need it several times durring an install, and not necessarily on the same day this is a decent value http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=35915 something like this will probably get you hurt badly http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200305491_200305491 this info might help http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=27&t=1018

first question, what makes you think the ring gaps are lining up, and is it occuring on one or all cylinders in YOUR application? the only time IVE seen that was on exceptionally thin cylinder wall blocks (UNDER .200 on the THRUST SIDE) (.250 as a minimum is prefered and thicker is better) keep in mind its not unheard of for rings to slowly rotate in the piston grouves and that means its normal for some rings on some pistons thru random chance to be aligned, at any given time, but detonation can and does cut a grouve thru the pistons ring lands/grouves , or partly melts and locks rings in place

the first step is to do a compression test [n]on all cylinders and write down the results[/b] if you only did a few cylinders and you need to verify the cam is lifting all the valves to the correct height and your getting spark at all the plugs, it sounds like your dealing with a worn cam or an ignition problem with the limited info

silly question, But,have you tried to used a DIFFERANT timing light to time the ignition timing and check the advance at both idle and at 3200rpm,and have you verified the TDC on the damper and timing tab are accurate? did you degree in the cam?

the easy way is to buy a male plug that fits the current outlet , similar to the driers current plug/cord and replace the current cord on your welder if you intend to still use the drier at times, youll wire the two blacks or the red and black power leads to the two power prongs and the white to the neutral, the greens not used, except as a connector to the frame earth ground on some applications stop by your local electrical supply and buy the cord and ask questions and take notes