grumpyvette

alittle creative welding and you could have some nice carts or one larger unit built for a multi welder center, arc,tig,mig all on one moveable cart. or an engine test running stand

DOES ANYONE! have a good source for 10-15 lb CO2 fire extinguishers, for shop use! the place I used to deal with is gone.

a NAME PLATE goes on top, theres DOZENS to choose from available http://www.tpis.com/index.php?module=catalog_page&catalogPageNumber=162&catalogCategory=%28L98%2FLT1%29+Dress+Trim

the 97 motors most likely in better condition, less wear, rust and mileage and has the better vortec heads if its temp ID go that route

thats one thing IVE not done, so I can,t comment on the results

since the test with the 2" open spacer will tell you if the intakes too small and were talking $20 Id do that test. checking the cam install, (degreeing it in retarded 4 degrees ) is also cheap and it may solve your problem if you find the cams current indexing is off

HEY GRUMPY? I have some comp beehives on my bbc, part #26120 I also have a lunati voodoo hydro roller part # 60212 I have 1.72 ratio full roller rockers up top, I've cycled the engine through many times and checked clearance and have just a smidgen above .060 clearance in the middle. This isnt a dedicated track car, just for street, and I dont plan on ever going above 5500rpm with it and have a rev limiter just to make sure, but does that amount of clearance with those parts seem safe enough to you? I don't think comp makes a stronger beehive for hydro rollers, and I dont feel like respending money, I've read many things and some people say you should have .100 clearance in the spring, and others say .060 is fine, what has been your experience? I've called comp and they said they should be fine. However, I highly doubt they are going to reimburse me 8k in parts over their springs. I do want to protect my 8k I put in there, but at the same time dont feel like shelling out $250+ for new valve springs when the ones I have are brand new. And I checked these clearances with no oil in the lifters whatsoever, they were completely bled down. The people that assembled them for me http://www.m2race.com said on the install sheet that the installed height is 1.890, the installed pressure is 160lbs, and that coil bind is a .625 gross lift. Comp says these are good to .600 lift and with the 1.72 ratio I come out to .607 lift. The tech on the phone told me it should be fine. Would you run em? ASSUMING your figures and info are correct,if your installed height is 1.890 and coil bind is at .625 thats 1.265 height for stacked spring coils, add .050 for minimal clearance and youll see a .575 MAX valve lift on the cam, BUT.. http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=CCA%2D26120%2D16&N=700+115&autoview=sku http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=LUN%2D60212&autoview=sku comp shows a 1.23 coil bind height, so given your lift is .607 the installed height and other clerances are critical to finding out if it will clear safely, 1.890-.607=.660-.050 for clearance =.610 so youll be ok IF the true installed height is really 1.890, now heres what ID do,IF you want extra clearance just to be safe, ID install valve keepers/valve locks that gave me an extra .050 lift http://www.cranecams.com/?show=browseParts&lvl=3&prt=2130&action=partSpec&partNumber=99099-1 by seating the retainer .050 higher on the valve stem....since youve got no intention of running on the ragged edge of the rpm band, changing the installed height will lower the valve spring loads slightly but in your application thats almost a total non-issue, and yes it may require longer pushrods to get the rocker geometry correct so think thru your changes carefully.

Its a good idea if your a decent fabricator, and don,t mind being a bit creative, but a roll cage and wheelie bars might be a good idea, http://ywnv.vidiac.com/recentvideos/7/8398a7ec-f655-4e70-9d11-99ab012eba03.htm

From the very limited info, Id say ITS most likely related to EITHER valve springs and the valve train control issues OR the fuel supply pressure or volume, that cams certainly big enought in fact its a bit larger than Id suggest is ideal. If you suspect its the intake restricting flow add an open center 2" spacer under the carb, it will significantly boost the upper rpm flow rates if the plenums too small at minimal cost, but read the plugs, and verify the ignition advance, cam timing, ignition timing,and fuel flow rates, as they are suspect. You might also think about retarding the cam timing about 4 degrees that should move the tq curve about 200rpm high. BTW do you have a way to find the true fuel/air ratio, it should be at about 12.7:1 if its significantly leaner like 14:1 -15:1 or more that hurts power. http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=SUM%2DG1409&N=700+115&autoview=sku personally I rarely use the vc jr intakes as Ive found these work noticably better http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=HLY%2D300%2D110&autoview=sku

ever notice my signature, line, IVE used for years "if you can’t smoke the tires from a 60mph rolling start your engine needs more work!" I drove a 13.7:1 cpr CROWER INJECTED 496 BIG BLOCK CORVETTE, for several years. IM familiar with the problem, of nearly zero traction under full throttle, conditions at under 60 -70mph first step, Maximize the current traction from the current tires; the wrong pressure can reduce effective traction by over 30% step one, play with the tire pressure until you get a full tread width and equally dark patch of rubber on the pavement, most guys run about 23-30 psi of tire pressure on the street, on the track you want the front tires up at about 30 psi to reduce rolling resistance but you’ll need to experiment , doing a few launches on concrete so you can get a good indication of the tread contact patch area, adjusting/playing with the rear tire pressure until you can get a full tread width black tire stripe on the pavement that’s equally dark full width to get max traction, if the centers darker the pressures usually a bit too high , if the edges are darker its a bit too low. next learn to launch the car smoothly, at the lowest rpm that will allow minimal tire spin to occur over the whole launch and into second gear, and yet still maintain the tire spin without the engine bogging as your running thru the first 60 feet on the track, once you get those factors under control you’ll find you’ll do better :thumbsup: once you leave the track reduce the front tire pressure until you get max traction, usually near 23 psi here’s a practice tree try to stay under .525-.530 reaction time http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/nhraxtreesp.html Step two Learn your equipments little quirks, your not going to be able to floor the accelerator pedal suddenly, especially on wet or sandy pavement, GET USED TO THAT FACT! And COMPENSATE by learning how to slowly depress the accelerator pedal and control and minimize the wheel spin. Step three high acceleration requires both better brakes and planning your reactions MUCH further in advance and a longer distance between starting your response and expecting results, get used to that and learn to expect it. step 4 air shocks, stiffer anti roll bars and bigger brakes are your friends but planning ahead and driving like you understand the cars quirks’ and potential for getting into trouble will go a very long way towards preventing problems, IE just because you CAN do something does not mean you SHOULD do it! besides its fun to cruise in top gear at 3000rpm at lets say 70mph and without even down shifting , smoking the tires as you leave some ricer in the dust from a roll without even seeming to put any effort what so ever into doing it:D :thumbsup:

The dual 58 mm throttle body like those used on some of the aftermarket tpi intakes will easily support 600 n/a hp if the heads, cam, and intake flow can match its potential. you don,t need nitrous but it certainly can be used, and if used correctly its an easy boost to the hp.

A dual 58 mm throttle body can easily supply 1000cfm,of air flow and easily support over 600hp, and add a nitrous plate behind it or dirrect port injection for the nitrous and your easily over 700 plus hp. YES direct port injection is superior too a behind the throttle body spray bar for both hp potential and for fuel/air/nitrous distribution. A WET system like this (BELOW)will require that you drill the runners and weld in bungs but it provides superior hp and control. http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=NOS%2D05088NOS&N=700+115&autoview=sku http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=NOS%2D13420NOS&N=700+115&autoview=sku ID strongly suggest you never even think about a dry nitrous system as they tend to have far more problems, if you don,t have a TIG welder you can use alumaweld on the bungs http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=60&t=851 you use alumaweld like a aluminum solder, and while its not as good as a TIG WELD , mits certainly servicable in that application if done correctly, just be sure the bungs are welded in a location so that individual fogger nozzels point at the back of the intake valves, and you can plumb and wire up the feed lines correctly, think it thru carfully before drilling or welding on your intake.

question, the TPI intake uses a DUAL 58mm BLADE throttle body that flows easily more than necessary to get to 600hp even un-supercharged. ford and some chevy on some engines use a single BLADE throttle body WHAT ARE YOU USEING? a dual 58mm equals a single 82mm throttle body flow rate

heres a responce I got an a differant site Excellent choice on Miller 252 welder. I worked as a certified welder for a major utility in Michigan for twenty years. Our main process was MIG welding. The only brand we used was Miller welders. Not because they were less costly, but that was what the majority of the welders wanted. We used straight CO2 for tensile strength but a CO2/ARGON mix produces a much nicer looking weld. I would recommend not using flux core wire. Copper coated wire is a good idea as you don't experience rusting on the unused wire in the machine.......... HUTCH

DD2000 and its variations give you a great value, they are usually very good at predicting the PEAK hp/tq figures IF you put in the correct data , and don,t B.S. on the factors , but other than PEAK numbers and spotting TRENDS they leave a great deal to be desired. http://www.auto-ware.com/software/eap/eap.htm gives far more detailed answers but its also a great deal more complicated to use and costs 9 times as much

saying the ironman 250 is the same as the millermatic 252 is like saying all girls look alike, the differance in internal parts is worth the differance in price, again ID strongly suggest asking detailed questions here http://www.millerwelds.com/resources/communities/mboard/forumdisplay.php?f=4 BEFORE spending a dime on EITHER WELDER

"I am considering buying a Hobart Ironman 250 mig from notherentool.com. Does anyone have one that can tell me if it is a good Quality welder?" ITS A DECENT WELDER BUT LOOK CLOSELY AT THESE WELDERS http://www.welders-direct.com/merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=WD&Product_Code=907324 http://www.welders-direct.com/merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=WD&Product_Code=500408 http://www.welders-direct.com/merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=WD&Product_Code=907321 for the extra $200 I choose the MILLER 252, its got more features, more AMPS, it can use three sizes of wire and generally its got better support and better parts, extra optional accessories, I talked to several welding shops before buying my miller 252 and everyone suggested the new miller 212 or 252 over the similar hobarts if the price was similar. But you can save some cash if you want too, the miller 212 will do about anything most guys need to do on a car.(I bought the 252 rather than the 212 miller mostly because I’m a tool junkie) Before spending $1500-$2000 on any mig welder ,ask questions here http://www.millerwelds.com/resources/communities/mboard/forumdisplay.php?f=4 Don’t forget the SHIELD GAS and tank/regulator ETC. you can’t MIG weld and get decent results without the GAS shielding.

Check your ignition timing at 3000rpm and at idle and the rate of ignition advance curve advance, either being off could cause the engine to limit its rpm potential drastically. Also check the fuel pressure, float levels and throttle is opening fully.

HEY GRUMPYVETTE? How much lift can these springs handle? I've read two different things from different sources....One says they can handle .490 another says they can handle .550....What's the real deal? See links below...I appreciate any help rendered. http://www.motorpartscentral.com/ProductModelDetail.cfm?ProductModelId=7726 http://www.trifive.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20581&highlight=RV943X you might want to keep in mind theres differances in the way max lift is being measured in some cases. example heres a chart and springs IVE USED http://www.racingsprings.com/PDF/beehive.pdf lets look at the last spring on the chart, #PAC 1520 its installed height is 1.880 coil bind is at 1.210 subtract 1.210 from 1,880 and you get .670, yet,its max lift is listed at .650, ok, but any engine builder will tell you you really need a minimum of .050 clearance, before reaching coil bind, so the real max lift at this point is not .650 but .620 lift, AHHHH! but thats ONLY if the valve train allows you that .620 clearance, if the valve guides,piston to valve,retainer to valve guide, or valve seals, rocker slot clearance or a dozen or more other factors are taken into account and clearances meassured, youll be lucky in the real world to see that .620 lift clearance, you might have only .590 quite easily, and require either more machine work, or differant retainers, valve keepers etc. to get even that .620 let alone the .650 listed, and yes you can get that .650 but it might require a few tweaks, machine work, and a differant installed height, etc. I think what they are saying is , that if you just pull the old springs and install the new ones .490 is usually what youll see, do some machine work and check clearances carefully and in theory you get the larger figure.

YOU BEAT ME TO POSTING THAT INFO,or answer to the problem. I WAS DRINKING COFFEE, this morning and the wife ask me why I had this strange look and I said , Id just thought of the obvious answer to a guys problem, I was going to say why not mount a second throttle cable to a bracket where the cable control for the 700r4 trans could be also mounted, since the trans has no need to know exactly what the THROTTLE is doing but only the engine rpms load and speed of the car , http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=HLY%2D20%2D113&N=700+115&autoview=sku

IT looks like that shaft the throttle blade rotates on, that has the screws that hold the round throttle blade, has one end that’s rotated by that covered control, or solenoid the electric plugs, mounted under. If it’s removable at least temporarily, it would appear that a custom and longer shaft could be made or fabricated and the opposite wall of the throttle bore drilled so it could protrude outside the throttle body housing to provide a external shaft to attach a lever to that would activate the TV cable

can you post detailed pictures, perhaps I can help if I see more info on the TB

http://racetransmissions.com/store/product_info.php/cPath/23_72/products_id/77 http://www.tciauto.com/Products/Instructions/instructions/gm_tv_cable_adjust.htm http://www.tvmadeez.com/article/index.php http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/transmission/tvcable.html http://www.high-impact.net/transmission_and_gear/700r4+AODTVCableAdj.htm http://www.chevyasylum.com/tech/tvcable.html http://www.purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/techinfo/700R4p1.html http://www.outlawtransmissions.com/v/vspfiles/articles/tv_cables.pdf http://racetransmissions.com/store/popup_image.php/pID/122 http://racetransmissions.com/store/product_info.php/cPath/23_95/products_id/122 http://www.who-sells-it.com/cy/holley-performance-products-inc-2055/fuel-injection-9345/page-28-fullsize.html http://racetransmissions.com/mainpages/tech_info/tvcable_adjust/index.html http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/49798_th200_4r_transmission_swap/photo_07.html http://www.700r4.com/faq/whattv.shtml youll probably need to fabricate something custom similar to this, maybe the links/info will help

the problem with the north star is the very limited amount of speed parts support and its limited displacement. ID strongly suggest finding a 472-500 caddy if your into caddy engines, or going with a CHEVY V8 if your looking for an EASIER swap with a huge supply of info and parts availability. many salvage yards can supply a 472-500 caddy engine for under $400, Id bet you could have a reasonable combo up and running if you had a complete caddy donor car, and the datsun for under $3k http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=101463&highlight=caddy BTW CADDY BLOCK HUGGER HEADERS!! http://www.speedwaymotors.com/472-500-CADILLAC-TIGHT-FIT-HEADERS-PLAIN,4645.html IF you were local and had a decent budget set aside IM sure my freinds could quickly install the caddy northstar and get it driveable, but its very unlikely to be a cost effective swap

first check the most obvious, carefully verify that two of the plug wires in the firing order are not out of sequence. next verify your getting spark at the plug by starting the engine with the suspect plug wire connected to a phillips screw driver rather than the sparkplug, and remember to only hold the plastic, but allow the steel part of the screw driver to be about 1/16" from the engine so it can potentially arc to the block verifying your getting spark. the spark should be BLUE not red or yellow in appearance.if the sparks yellow or red verify the coil polaritys correct and the voltages is at about 12-13 volts (same as the battery) and check the engine ground is good. next if your getting spark from that screw driver test,replace that spark plug, if your not, test the plug wire with an ohms meter it should read UNDER 400-500 ohms per foot of length.in most cases but,(compare its resistance to several other wires on your engine, if its markedly differant theres a big problem and ID replace all the plug wires) next Replace the cap and rotor if they are suspect, thier cheap and if they have over 65-80k your probably going to need one anyway soon.