Sparky

hey guys...sorry for the lateness of my reply. tony, the exhaust manifold is a slightly modded N47 with a adapter made by CarTech. its not the best way to do things, but seeing as how i bought this as a "kit" im trying to use as much as i can. the project went from turbo SUs to l24 FI turbo..into the F54 turbo! o-well...so much for that right...i just kept getting really good deals and there was no way i would pass them up! Davy, Im a little unsure of the size of the turbo. i have yet to have it rebuilt...nor have i talked to anybody...its rajay model number E33? the only thing ive done thus far is polish the compressor side...i have been told that its a T3...but am unsure as to the accuracy of that. any ideas? ive also tried to contact Mr. bell about this kit, but he has yet to reply to all my questions....and thats understandable. Im hoping it performs well....as it was designed to be used for the L28...im sure mr bell knows whats hes doing and it will work fine. anywho...thanks for the questions! i like writing about my project! laterZ

hey guys, my intercooler was painted black but now i dont like it. how can i strip the paint from it without damaging the fins? can i use the aircraft paint stripper? will it hurt the aluminum? just wondering what else i might be able to use....? thanks in advance! laterZ

depends on what kind of turbo it is. mine has a big v-groove clamp that holds the exhaust housing to the center section. you can undo the clamp a little bit and rotate the senter section/compressor side to wherever you want....360 degrees of rotation...almost! remember that the oil outlet must point as close to straight down as possible, you really need a little bit of ole gravitys help in oil evacuation of the bearing section. but as staed earlier....if you havea built in wastegate than you must take into account the wastegate accuator and what not. good luck....

hey guys, its a N600 the great grandfather of the civic....even before the Z600 and cvcc coupes. its powered by a 600cc aircooled motorcycle engine. turning out 45hp at 6700 RPM. does the quarter in 24.5(?) and 0-60 in 27-28 seconds! ive thought about the b18 conversion, but based on the cars rarity...im thinking i should keep it as close to stock as possible. and talk about parts being rare! just go to your local parts house and ask for ANY part for a 71 N600. its just not gonna happen. not even at the dealer! cant wait to get her back on the road! im actually thinking about building the orig. motor for serious high RPM + turbo. ive already got a IHI turbo thats super small (like the size of my hand!) so im probably going to throw that on there with some custom pistons and what not. hopefully i can double the HP on this 1200 pound car. the strange thing is...is that all 2 cylinders fire at the same time, its really funny sounding. if you guys would like some more pictures, i have some of the engine and interior. you can see that the shifter hangs from the bottom of the dash! laterZ

hey all, i absolutly love the old datsun roadsters and actually looked into buying one not to long ago...this car was powered by a LS1 along with the six speed. a great little car with way to much HP. (like thats posible) anywho...just about anything can be done.....yours looks really good...hopefullyafter i finish my Z and my N600, i canfind a nice little early roadster and start my project. laterZ

this is front view sorry for the poor quality.....my digi cam stinks...and the lighting is even better! maybe ill get some good shot in the next few days as i work out some bugs. pics descriptions are here enjoy! and tell me what you think!

another idea that ive used on several occasions. since the car is on jack stands. use your floor jack (assuming you have one) to apply pressure to the other end of the wrench...see what im saying...place the open end wrench on the square bolt so that its ready for the lefty loosey touch. hold it in place while you slide your floor jack under it...slowly raise the floor jack until the closed end of the wrench is resting firmly in the middle of the jacks pad...and every so slowly crank your jack up...you might have to hold the wrench straight...but the force of the jack...combined with the weight of the car on top of it , should break the plug loose!... again good luck.

oh yeah.... just did that about twelve minutes ago..now im taking a break. turns out that its 17mm. i just used the open end and gave a couple of whacks with the big rubber mallet. came right off.... good luck,

I understand not seeing the logic on going down two cylinders. but the fact of the matter is is that the RB is a cast iron block. while bieing 2 liters..just like the SR. but the SR is all alum. and makes almost the same power as the RB20. while RB26...or even RB25 would be very nice..i must consider the fact that living in the US causes a bit of a problem if it ever comes time to rebuild. (also...buying a used motor is not the wisest thing to do. you have no idea of the condition.....and im not just flying out to cali to check out a motor that i might buy. i dont have that kind of money.)but...the SR has a very close cousin in the US that i could get parts for much easier and cheaper. although i would love to have a RB inline in my Z...(as thats the most Z like thing to do.) its not within my budget. but the SR is much closer to being within my limited means. so anyway. looks like im going to go with the SR. probably sometime on 04. unless i can find something better and cheaper. ive also considered the supraTT....but dont like the idea of toyota motor in a Z. call me crazy! but i like to keep it all nissan.

as i get closer to finishing my current ZXT swap into my 240....i cant help but think of my next project. so im down to two motors.....RB20 or SR20. Im wondering what you guys think of both, in the three catagorys: weight reliabilty HP potential thoughts?

oops?...are you talking about putting a V8 in your E30?...if so..ive seen some 302 conversions....and alpina did a 540swap into a E30 M3. ACschnitzer has a sweet 318is they converted to full M3 specs (minus body work )..then dropped in a prepped M5 motor....this thing haulS

well, the 325E was a 2.5 liter inline six. the E stands for Economy. basically a low reving low compression version of the ever popular 2.5I motor. now...if you mix the heads from one of the later models...you end up with a super ETA....basically....the E block...with the better I head...youll get aobut 190 HP with this combo. BMW did make some torquey beasts with the 3.5 liter version of this motor...and even the twin cam 3.5 liter M5 motor..also in the M6. super revvy...silky smooth. but a V8 BMW motor.....try the 740il...or the 540. a really nice motor...but for what they want for those things...you could get a LS1. laterZ

hey guys, i recently bought a 83 NA manual dizzy that i was going to use for my 77 efi turbo swap on my 240. well....i found an additionall injection controller at a good price..but it needs a hall effect sensor in order to operate properly. i know (from what ive been told) that the 83 NA dizzy i have does not have a hall sensor....but the 83 turbo diizy does. ive also been told that the turbo dizzy cannot be hooked up to the 77 harness? is this true? can it be done? can i add a hall sensor to my 83 NA dizzy?.... thanks for anyhelp i can get. laterZ

thanks for all the info guys, What i need to do is find a place in SA where i can buy some steel tubing in a coil, and compare to the copper price...i know that 1/2 inch copper tubin in a 25 foot roll is 19$. thats the main reason why i was looking at copper....its cheap...its easy to bend...and i can get it les than a mile from my house. budget budget budget. i still have 7 months to finish my car and im at 50% right now. ive been at it for 6. laterZ

can someone explain "work harden" to me? also the tubing will have the stock rubber isolators in use ....i know it will still get vibration and what not...but its not like im mounting it to the body itself. i dont know. whatdaya think? laterZ

hey guys! first time posting and hope yall can help me out. ive asked this question on Zcar.com as well as bimmer.org...and got a response of 50/50, so hopefully someone here can clear it up with real information. I stopped by the local FI shop (fuel injection specialties in San Antonio) and told them what i was doing. also showed them some aluminum line i had lying around. i felt the the alum line wasnt going to fit the bill...and they agreed on that...they told me to go with steel brake lines and use rubber hose for the flexy bits and curves. although i know that the steel would work, i have a problem with running a lot of rubber sections in a long bendy leanght of high pressure fuel line. (the less joints and fittings you have, the less chances of a leak are). so i asked about copper line, the type you buy at home depot for high pressure natural gas lines and refrig. lines. the main guy there thought about it for a bit and from his knowledge he could not think of a reason that copper would be a poor choice (now if it was thinner water line type tubing he said that it could annurism at high pressure). ao anywho! all opinions welcome...please help me solve this problem...!! laterZ