Sparky

just curious....what kind of power output can be expected from this motor...stock..and what can it be pushed too. i know that the 2JZ is a better motor....capable of alot more power....(ive heard of 700HP on stock bottom ends)but its also 4K compared to the 1K of the 7M-GTE. jusvunderin....im still up in the air over my next swap. and these are my choices (in no order): 2JZ 7M-GTE RB26/25/20 SR20DET CA18 i really like the idea of a light four banger Z. but if im bored already with my L28turbo....than the four bangers just are not going to cut it....however...a high HP six...droooooooolll hmmm.....boost

bwahaha! thats funny....mind if i use that in a local classified.....see what kind of response i get.... again....best laugh all day

yea scottie, id have to say that if the devil himself drove a car....it would be your Demon Z. an absolutly amazing job...four thumbs up

open the doors and grab your 10MM socket with a long ext. there is a bolt here....there are two at the bottom of the fender lip at the door. and there are also some at the sugerscoops. hopes this helps.

ok guys...check this one out... the horror! i really have nothing to say about it. nothing at all.

i got my Z to strip with a little al green in the background and some candles. (no alchohol needed) but really...ive used the chemicles and sandpaper..and blasting. if your going to use the chems...buy them in a spray can. its more expensive...but the ease of use is worth the extra $$$ one thing to note...if you have anybondo on the car..it will soak up the stripper...so you must completly remove all old filler before you start body work again sandpaper..is a little better because you dont have to worry about chems bleeding through the seems and into your new paint job. but its very dusty and takes a long time. depending on the media...and the person(s) doing to job. blasting is the best. any decent shop should ahve a choice of blasting media...some much better (read:$$$$)than the others. but beware...as experaince is key..and if the worker stays on one spot to long...he can warp the panel..and give you even more work to do. so anywho...my general .02c

i agree 100% on the R34 taillights : does anybody know vince cox? he has a first gen with a custom tail light panel taking up the entire taillight/liceneseplate area. its interesting..you either love it or hate it. but its an idea. anywho. as long as the lights work...im going to stick with my stock lights... anywho...

i myslef always like the round taillights (could be because of my 2002).to me...while the R34 tailights wouldnt look excatly right on a Z...the would look better than most. while i think they couldhave done better from the factory...what they ended up with still fits the Z well... the guy thats doing body work on my Z..is building a 240 with 02 celica headlights and R34 taillights...should be interesting to say the least...but hes kinda crazy... hmmm...

i run mine popped as well....especially in the hot ass texas summer. ive had her up to a sustained 100mph for about ten minutes and had 0 problems. alot of autoXrs also run like this. no worries as the stock finger latch will keep er closed (if its aligned right.)

becuase a radiator is meant to readiat heat....as in household applications. and thats not what a "heat exchanger" in an atomitve application does.

congrats on a job well done...although it seems that us Z guys...(or most any carguys for that matter) simply cannot ever "finish" a car. i must say that when i first started my project...your site was one of the few where i analyzed ever last page...trying to absorb everdetail i could. you truly did a fantastic job on your car..its something that you should be very proud of. hopefully one day i can see it. congrats again....be sure to enjoy the ride!

i tried to take mine off with a pipe wrench and damn near tossed them out my garage in frustration. THEN! i took them to minieke...where for 5$ a peice...i got to watch one of there guys try and try to get them off they did get them off in about thirtie minutes...using two of thier biggest guys. all in all im very glad i did...when i got them home i cleaned all the threds with a wires brush and then thourghly soaked them in anti-seize...cause i know im gonna have to do it again some day.

i think that thats a engine bay of a 1985-88 BMW 5 series. you can tell be the slant at the cowl. i now thats sad..but i used to work at a BMW dealership....so my random BMW knowledge is up there

thanks for the info fellas.... it will be a couple of weeks before i get the unit...and another couple before i can hook it up. i hope yall can deal with my mass amounts of questions that i will be asking. thanks again!

if anyone remembers correctly.....BMW was rushed by the press the customers and BMW NA to get this car ready....what where they rushed on?..the engine. BMW GhMB(?) stated that the new motor was not ready and would have at least a year of testing. BMW NA said no..and a six month deal was struck. obviosly it wasnt enough. I for one am a huge BMW fan....engineering is above average and build quality is fantastic. also...have yous guys ever been to the dealer?...its like a really nice hotel...big couches....books...all kinds of stuff.... anywho...the first couple of yeras of a new completely new car...it can be expected. but id still buy one....IMHO its the most beautiful cars built today.

perhaps i did not search the archives well enough...or even online articles....but i could for the life of me find the info i need, when running an accel DFI. can i change the impedance of teh injectors in Calmap? let say i just bought some new merkur injectors for my turbo project (running semi stock l-jetronic) but now i have bought a used DFI unit...i really hate to throw away the cash i just spent on the new injectors...and would like to be able to use them with my DFI. thanks in advance!

id actually like to get that as well:) Fauxpas@rocketmail.com purdy paleeze

hey john, you wouldnt happen to have a CAD file of those mounts would you? sure are purdy....

hey owen.... thats a fine idea....although that means that i have to shop in the ricer section of autozone right now im running the lights in a nice blue tone (about six layers of stain glass colour) but im going to be switching to red soon....as my VDO boost gauge is red. owen...do they make the neon string in red?...that would be kinda cool.

first you need to take the center console out...then the heater/stereo face plate. then you have access to the gauges...youll need to take all the gauges out in order to change the colour of the lenses/bulbs. on the 280Z the tach and speedo have a small set screw in the plastic housing on the outside...youll see it if you but your head on the edge of your seat and then look up at the gauges. the colour of your gauges is set by these little plastic lenses that are pushed and the melted to the gauge housing. the crappy thing is...is that you must take the gauges completely apart in order to get those little lenses off once you brake them off. watch it when you take apart the gauges as some have tiny little phenolic(sp?) spacers betweem some electrical contacts...and if they fall out....good luck getting them back in. after you take everthing apart...just push on the lens from the outside of the housing with a screwdriver...the should eventually pop out. now that the lenses are out..you can use those autometer colourcondom things....or you can take your bulbs and spray stain glass colour (thats what i did and it works out very well) on them...depending on the layers of colour...is exactly how they turn out. good luck...

hey guys....beleive it or not...my body guy is working on the car right now...11pm! i gonna pay this guy double if he gets the car done....well...maybe not...but ill least buy him a cheeseburger! to answer some questions....first the colour: its called amber fire pearl. a stock jeep/chrysler product....i dont see much of this colour..but when i do i think ZZZZZZZ yo2001...i have to really drive her...so its still up in the air as what kind of flow we are going to get out of the IC. the guys at CarTech (corky bell and crew) did all the welding and where very impressed with the core. saying something to the effect that they wish they could get thier hands on some (so im guessing that it must be good. scotty: im glad to hear you got yours running. ive been following your progress as a motovation for my project. the turbo is a "hybrid" of sorts. Mr. bell built this turbo some time ago for a 280Z drag car. its a turbonetics T04B exhaust side with a rajay T3 compressor side. trim specs are unknown to me at this time. maybe he will find them some day. but it supose to flow in the 400HP range. and thats good enough for now all i want to do is drive the thing! ohh...and kick some ass! laterZ

holy schmoly it started and ran today! i even got to drive it down the street and Back!!!! turns out that the ignition realy was not properly grounded! causing all sorts of muck for the ECU.. go figure right...12 hourse of frustration over a silly ground wire....lol...o well. all i can say is that the turbo sounds MEAN...while i only drove under moderate load at low RPM...i can hear it start to spool up...but it doesnt want to make boost just yet. so enough of my crap and on with the pics!!!! here she is running and again front view: the intercooler slant: the FPR: the BOV throttle body..and other goodies and the 3" downpipe so anywho...sorry for wasting your bandwidth! but man im happier than a pig in.....ummm...Zcars!! ha-ha! now its off the the body shop! laterZ

hey guys, to answer some questions: tony..the intercooler is both...OEM and custom. i dont really want to give away my secret...but i will tell you this..i sell these cores for 200$. with partial endtanks for 300...and complete and welded with 2.25 or whatever size you want tubing for 400$ i have several...all at the size of core is 3x11.75x26.5 now this is just the core...endtanks add a couple inches depending on specific model. lockjaw...intercool plumbing is 2.25 mike....i trust this guy to the fullest. i spoke with hime yesterday and we both agreed that rushing paint is no way to finish a car ive put so much into. but he did promis me that he will finish all the body work (including my custom stuff) in five days. leaving me time to tune the car a little more and get her "legal" thanks to everyone for the kind words and comments. look for a huge picture update in a little les-n-half-n-hour laterZ

hey guys, finally got the car running (for about three seconds at a time) and i have a few questions if ya dont mind. while testing the cold start valve for voltage, i decided to test the injectors as well just to make sure they where getting power. well a few seconds later i was turning the key to the on position..to find that the injectors where getting power without cranking...this to me seems odd...s it would more than likely cause a rich/flooding condition as the motor is not being started...and fuel is being sprayed into the manifold anyway. i also noticed that both connectors for the injector where getting voltage...not just one. i thought that the injectors only got voltage when the ECU got a (-) coil trigger....and also thought that the injectors where supose to get power from only one side of the connector...not both ( as in one is ground...the other is +) can someone please point me in the right direction! thanks in advance!

well...i tried to start my car today...it wasnt ready i guess but i know i am! anywho...i took some pics of the intercooler and plumbing and stuff...so here it is..the intercooler..mounted and ready to go: heres a shot of the BOV and plumbing: and another: heres a shot from the rear: and one from the front passenger side: anywho...the 2002 ZCCA Z nationals are in 20 days...the car goes into paint and body this tuesday...and then i have to put it back together in 2 days for the show.....oh crap im in trouble!! . but ill make it...and i hope to see yous guys there!hopefully tomarrow night the car will start! wish me luck!