ThaPimpShrimp

I contacted you before about the engine. Shooting you another PM now.

Looks great! Just go with the lifted look and get some knobby off road tires

Yeah that's possible, the tire shop I went to said the same thing. I just installed them on my own at home.

I've just got 8mm spacers on mine and it clears just fine, no issues and I've pushed this car hard. It's definitely tight though. Is he saying that you actually won't clear? Or just that he'd like you to have a bit more space to be safe.

Those should work, I used these: http://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Automotive-21123BC-Diameter-Thread/dp/B001O08ADO They're holding up nicely. I've taken them on and off a bunch and no issues with paint or anything yet.

Unless the 280 studs are longer than 240, you're going to need longer wheel studs.

Exactly like Orangetang said. I've got the AST as well. Decent tires, they grip pretty well but they're not an autocross tire or anything. They look good. I've got ~14,000 miles on them and they're probably just past half their life or so. Mine are also wearing a bit faster on the inside from camber, but these tires only ran me about $300 so I can't complain.

I've got Eibach springs and Tokico struts. 15x9 +0 wheels. I've got 225/50 Kumho Ecsta and I don't really have any issues with them. With a passenger I'll get some rub in the rear over hard bumps, could be solved by rolling that inner fender lip but I don't want to risk my paint because it happens so rarely. Some pictures: http://imgur.com/a/DkdD0

Ah I know what you're talking about, but no mine aren't getting stuck. I had that issue in the past but I've since solved it. Haha well no not entirely, I'm definitely considering it. Definitely would be nice. Still need to check out the ignition - haven't had any time this weekend.

I found a method online where you attach some clear tubing to the bottom of the float bowl, then let the fuel pump fill up the bowl/tube. Then you can measure the fuel level to the outside of the bowl. I will definitely check the timing again, I had the same thought as you when I was thinking over the issue in my head last night. Interesting, I'm not super familiar with the internals of these carbs yet, so I'll do some reading and try to check this out. Carbs are synced with a Unisyn.

Here's an update for you all. Thanks for your help and input thus far. Unfortunately the issue has not been solved yet. Like I think I mentioned before I checked the float levels and they were good - remember these are ZTherapy rebuilt carbs so I'd hope so Since, I have installed a carter electric fuel pump, holley FPR, and a fuel pressure gauge. Removed the mechanical pump and put on a blockoff plate. Fuel pressure is a constant 4psi to the rail now. The only way I really have to test this issue is via butt dyno and test driving, as I can't afford $200 every change to go to a dyno and have them check the AFR's (though I am somewhat considering a wideband... seems so unnecessary though). Today I ran a 3rd gear pull and it seems the same, no power gain above that 3500 mark or so and it won't even pull past 5500. What's next? I'll be calling the guy who helped me build my engine tomorrow to see if he's got any ideas.

Tank is out! A little beat up but the inside is rust free, so that's good news. The filler neck looks like it was leaking a bit where it connects to the tank.. but I'm unsure whether that is due to it being bad or the clamp.. clamp looked original but the neck still feels pretty good. Happy Thanksgiving!

Float bowl levels measured just about 23mm from the top of the bowl on both carbs.

I already had most of the parts and was planning on doing this anyway, but I will also take a look at the float levels. I have the DVD from ZTherapy, but I believe you can check it with a piece of clear tube right? Edit: Found a few articles on it, I'll get it done this weekend hopefully!

When he hit about 6,000 I heard what sounded like a backfire, don't think it was pinging. No smells and no smoke. I'm actually going to drop my tank tomorrow and redo all of the vapor and fuel lines in the rear, I've needed to do that for a while anyway. When I reinstall the tank I'm mounting up a Carter P4070, with an inline filter between it and the tank. Also have a holley FPR coming in. Only fuel filter I have is the one in the engine bay and it's a brand new WIX.

To be honest, I'm not 100% sure on the diff or transmission. If the PO is to be believed, the transmission is the earlier 280z 5 speed, and the diff should be a 3.36 R180. I also don't know what gear he ran it in, this was sort of a freebie quick event for people who came to the meet, since my numbers were so off he quickly checked the AFR's for me as a favor. I'm not so worried about the numbers, more the AFR. This solidified what I thought I had been feeling since installing the engine, and have been trying to fix through tuning alone. No pinging while on the dyno. The top end didn't sound good, but I'd say that's due to it running so lean.

Well, this certainly won't be my last L series build, so what's your opinion on the best cams/grinds/etc. I built this engine pretty mildly and I got a few recommendations for Isky so I went with him, good price and a nice guy to deal with. In the future I'd like to do a build around Rebello's 63di, I know a guy with that cam in his motor (Similar build to this but with higher compression and more head work) and it's a monster.

Most definitely. For now I'll get this fuel issue solved, then we'll see about upping that compression!

Raising compression was something I struggled with, and was eventually convinced not to do. I have been thinking about removing the head and having it shaved a bit though, luckily doing that isn't a super tough job. I'd just need to find shims for everything. Thanks for the tips.

I never have checked the float levels in these carbs. I bought them new from ZTherapy and just assumed that they were good to go.. because that's what I paid them for. Hopefully that's not my mistake.

Yeah it's bad. I'll take a look in the FSM for that test, thanks!

Apologies, I took a look at my paperwork for the timing curve (Had a guy rebuild and change the distributor curve a bit) and I believe I have it setup so it goes from about 18-19* to 35-36*. It's been a couple months since I set it, so I couldn't tell you exactly. When I get to solving this problem I'll definitely take a look at timing, but honestly that is the part I'm least worried about and wouldn't cause a super lean running condition anyway.

I considered fuel pump, but discounted it because I figured through one run it shouldn't be emptying the float bowl.. Also what could be wrong with the float bowl that could cause this, just the floats being set wrong? And yeah, definitely won't be hitting the throttle anymore, I'm glad I discovered this now before I blew the engine.

I got the chance to put my 240z and new motor on a dyno (Free of charge!) today, and got some bad news. I peaked at 148ft/lbs and 124hp to the wheels. Both sad and odd numbers right? Well, the guy let me check my AFR's on the second run, and lo and behold they lean out dangerously after 3500 or so. This is my first build/swap, and I've never dyno'd a vehicle before, so I'm sure some of you will have a bit more expertise when reading these graphs so I'd love some input. It's looking to me like my cam timing is way off, I can't really think of any other way to explain what's going on here. I didn't set the cam timing myself, I had someone who knows what he's doing do that, but it's possible he made a mistake. Engine Specs: F54 Block, P90A, Stage III Isky Cam (.490 Lift, 242* @ .050), flat top pistons, ZTherapy SU's (SM needles) tuned pretty well which you can see initially on the AFR chart, E12-80, timing set properly, I believe 14* initial to a total of 37*, headers, 2.5" exhaust, etc. So with that said, take a look and let me know what you think. Hopefully I'll be able to fix this and pick up some major power. Motor feels super strong right up till about 4,000 so I'm excited what it'll do when setup and tuned right.

Just Eibach lowering springs. They fit pretty well, any lower and I'd probably rub but as is I have no issues and won't even have to roll the fenders. Someday I'd like coils but it isn't in the budget at the moment.