ThaPimpShrimp

Finally got them on!

Hey guys, so according to the shop attempting to install the new wheels, I don't have room for the 15x9 Shakotans with 225/50 Kumho Ecstas. This is with an 8mm spacer also. Those of you running a spacer, what type/size did you need? And did you need to install longer wheel studs? They also said that was an issue. I was hoping to be running this new combo tomorrow but apparently that isn't happening. Edit: Answered a lot of my own questions, I'll be swapping the front studs out for some S14 ones (41.5mm I believe). You guys think the 8mm(5/16in) spacer is enough? The guy at the tire shop said I should go for a 1/2in for a bit more clearance.

My 15x9 Shakotans are going on today! Discount Tire Direct got me some 225/50 Kumho's for $324 to my door (Plus a $50 rebate).

Sweet! 2 rows right? And hopefully no chips or anything? I am considering waiting for the big swap meet this weekend because I may find one there, but what would you like for yours? Shipping is out to CA, zip code 95682.

Hey guys, hopefully someone here has a 2 row pulley laying around. I have been unable to find one locally. Going on my L28. Thanks!

I am getting a ton of conflicting opinions on Schneider vs. Isky vs. Webcams and also tons of conflicting opinions on regrinds versus new billets.. What's your opinion on all of this, and how is that cam holding up thus far? I'm looking for a grind very similar to the one you used.

That's what I'll be running as well actually, until I get the money to build some coilovers. Thanks for the info.

I assume you've got rolled fenders right? Lowering springs? Any issues at all with rubbing? I've actually got your 280z saved in my examples folder, looks nice!

Well, I ended up buying them! 15x9 +0. It'll be a month or two before they're on the car though, I've got the engine out and a bunch of parts to install/things to do before I'm ready to mount the new wheels. Still trying to decide on the best tire.. I'm liking the reviews and looks of the Dunlop DZ102's, price is great also! Unfortunately they're only available in 205/50, which I am nervous about getting. I don't prefer the look of a ton of stretch, but may go this route for pricing/reviews, treadwear rating is 460! To my knowledge our only options in a 225/45 or 225/50 are tires like the Ziex-912 which is an all-season tire (Which I didn't care for much on my ZX), or autocross/strict performance tires. Since I tend to drive my Z ~100mi a day commuting to work I don't see that as an option. So... Dunlop DZ102's in 205/50 or Ziex-912 in 225/50? I may be willing to give the Ziex another shot, they wore out pretty quick on me before and I'm not sure how they compare performance wise to something like the DZ102.

Yes sir you are correct, I was wondering if there was a way of shaving less off (perhaps .060") to keep the compression a bit lower since I only have access to 91 octane.. but I've since decided to just not do any shaving anyway. Too much hassle, and my compression will be good enough for a street car with the bigger pistons/thinner gasket.

I'll end up pretty close to this setup, though I may be using 86mm pistons. I've been reconsidering cam options.. and I'm not sure what to go with. When I compare Webcamshaft's 94a to stock cams it seems pretty similar.. so I don't see the point in spending the money to "upgrade" to it. Even the 91 looks to be less racey than MSA's stage 1. Am I reading the specs wrong? Do you guys have any suggestions as to what would work best for me? Car will see the rare track day but mostly daily driving and fun runs, I do a good amount of spirited driving so I'm not afraid of losing a little but I don't want to go overkill either.

So the final plan is just leaving compression alone, just using flat tops to get me up into the 8's . Later on though, I am going to boost it when I get all the pieces together.

Hmm alright thanks for the advice. I keep going back and forth on that topic. I even spoke for a while to Rebello (Since he's in CA) about what he would do. Tough decisions to make! I'm using ARP Studs anyway so I suppose if I want to, I can go back in and raise compression later. Technically I'll get better fuel economy with higher compression anyway

Thanks for the tip there. Is 93 octane really necessary on that engine? Or just a precaution. The reason I was worried about getting near 10:1 is I only have access to 91. Not to mention my cam selection is pretty mild so that won't help much with the dynamic compression. I need to look into SM needles, I have stock rebuilt ZTherapy SU's on currently. Sweet! I'm going to do some port work as well. I've got the full MSA exhaust system (6-1 headers) and an N36 intake w/ SU's. 23mpg isn't bad. Would you believe me if I told you I was getting up near 30mpg with my L24? 5 speed + stock gearing ratio helped out a bunch there I'm sure.

They're a bit more pricey! http://www.whiteheadperformance.com/products/new-datsun-240z-260z-280z-stainless-steel-euro-bumpers/

I'd guess SS = Stainless Steel, but I suppose fiberglass won't rust either

Black Dragon had them first I believe, though they are the same price. So perhaps just compare shipping. Let us know how they are! I've heard good things about them. http://www.blackdragonauto.com/icatalog/zr/full.aspx?Page=20 http://www.blackdragonauto.com/icatalog/zr/full.aspx?Page=21

I am planning on building an L28 for my '72 240z. I've done lots of reading, and of course have discovered the information on DatsunZGarage. I am planning to follow his setup on a P90/F54 (Which I already own) pretty much exactly. It is a pretty moderate build, and I'm not going to go overboard into performance. I try to daily drive the Z when I can, which includes a 100 mile commute. My main concern is pinging. Shaving the head 0.080" brings me up to around (Probably a little over, I don't know what size pistons I need yet) 10:1. With the P90's head design this shouldn't be an issue, but I am in California so I really only have access to 91 octane and I don't plan on using any octane booster. If this is CR even an issue, I'd rather just get the compression a bit lower from the start, than retarding timing and potentially losing performance that way. I understand how the camshaft and valvetrain geometry is kept in line with his setup, what I don't know is if I want to lower it a bit, how to go about that the best way (Say shaving just 0.060" instead). Like I said, I have done lots of reading, and have searched on here and haven't quite found my answer. This is probably more a question of general engine building than specific to the L series, but you guys likely know best and I figure it should be a fairly short and sweet answer. I'll try to get a thread together showing my progress with the car soon too, it's been a lot of work but I enjoy it, and I love my Z. Thanks!

That's who I'm looking at ordering from now. They're actually located just a couple of hours from me so if I happen to be in the area the guy said he'd waive sales tax for me, putting the set of 4 15x9 +0 at about $620.

Where are you guys finding the best deals on Shakotans? Gonna get some 15x9 +0's in the near future.

Looking for an L28 or L28 blocks/heads in the North/Central CA area. Rebuilt or needing to be rebuilt.. discuss price based on what you've got. I've got a truck to come and pick up from you. I've got an E88 head that I can use if you've got an N42 or F54 block, not particularly interested in any heads other than P90 or N42. Let me know what you've got I want to get this engine going soon.

All of my 280zxt gaskets I have bought have been the paper Fel-pro type. However I just purchased a Fel-pro intake/exhaust gasket for my L24 (E88 head) and received one was the graphite type. Not sure why they'd do that! I always had sealing issues with those paper gaskets on my L28et until I used some gasket sealant.. messy stuff but it seemed to do the trick for now.

Pmed!

Hey guys, looking for that stock 240z airbox for the roundtop SU carbs. I don't mind if it's not in the best condition, so long as I can restore it.

That is an interesting solution. Sorry to bump an old thread but I am trying to get some information on the vacuum advance of the 280zx distributors before going through with the swap.. Currently running a stock L24. I am worried about the vacuum advance being too much and I have yet to find any definitive writeups on how to deal with this issue.. and whether it even is an issue. Does anyone have any experience? I've heard of some completely disabling the vacuum advance, others modifying it to be correct, and others still leaving it alone with no problems. Should I just go with pertronix? I'd like to build a high compression L28 at some point though..