Drax240z

OK, I've never liked flares all that much, until just now. Nice clean install... Now I'm thinking I might have found a way I like to stuff those 16x8 wheels under my car.

I find propane works a lot better than carb cleaner, which can strip paint and is quite harsh. Also its a bit easier to get into nooks and crannies because its a gas.... let us know what you find.

I had a similar problem with my switch, and I assure you the 240 ones come apart! I ended up finding the worn out part (in this case a little nylon nub that was on the end of a spring) and made a new one using a lighter and a nylon zip-tie. Warning, you'll burn your fingertips a lot. If you find those little nubs to be the problem (worn down) I'd suggest putting a dab from a hot glue gun on them to build them up again or something similar. Also double check every wiring connection from the combo-switch to the wiring harness for corrosion, and good fit.

Heh, I wrapped the chain around the cam once. Worked like a charm! I don't recommend this if you plan on using the engine though.

Yeah John, at 14.7psi (1 bar pressure, or 2 atmospheres) there is twice as much air in a given volume, so a engine running 1 bar boost is effectivly ingesting twice as much air as it would without boost. ie: my 168ci engine running at 14.7psi boost would be roughly the equivalent of a 336ci engine without boost. (of course efficiency plays a large part as well) Did you ever get any track/gtech times with your old motor? It would be interesting to compare to the 383 once all is done...

To clarify. 81-82 turbos had 15" snowflake wheels. 83 turbos had 15" swastica wheels. All the rest, Z or ZX before 84 had 14" wheels. This includes iron crosses as pictured, 6 spokes, etc. BTW I've run toyota 4 piston calipers (non-vented rotor) under 14" wheels in the past without a problem. It depends on exactly what 14" wheel you use, I believe.

Hey, thanks for that clarification! Do you have any pics of your setup online? I'd love to see them. Have you considered relocating the turbo to the GN position? That would likely eliminate the need to redo the frame rail...

OK, so not a fake 3.5" exhaust. I deserved that. Sounds great, have you found a muffler to run with the oval pipe? Just out of curiosity since you've had a few turbo setups, have you run at all with no resonator and just a straight through muffler? How was it for noise?

RIGHT! I have to remember to make a heat shield for my steering coupler this weekend. Sounds like a good setup to me! Are you planning a true 3.5" exhaust all the way back from the collector?

Looking good James! Just a question, I'm not very familiar with twin setups, but are you plumbing both turbo's through the one wastegate, and just haven't quite got all the pipes together in that picture? Intake looks really good too. If I didn't have so much going on with the FSAE car I'd consider doing one for myself this term. (all my shop time is spent on the FSAE car though) Can't wait to hear about it running! L6 power baby!

I think you can do better than Arizona Zcar. Check out www.fonebooth.com and www.modern-motorsports.com both are run by guys that are regulars here, you can't go wrong with either of them! [ September 12, 2001: Message edited by: Drax240z ]

Check this out: http://www.zdriver.com/articles/full_article.php?ID=65 Just for those of you contimplating this swap, this gives you a good idea of what might be involved. Scott has posted on this site in the past and hopefully can give us a bit more information as to how things are going and how the car runs.

I believe Mazda used some 4 rotor Wankel engines in some of their race cars. (Le Mans stuff) Damn a 20B in a Z would kick ass!

Wow dude, sounds like its time for CV's for sure! Gad, I hope I can make it a little while before thrashing my R180 and halfshafts... Love to see pics of catastrophic failures, especially of metals. Put them up!

I don't think liking nissan motors necessariliy makes you a purist. They really do make outstanding motors, and I think you've chosen well. In my eyes a purist is someone that will only put something in his car because it says 'nissan'. Good luck with the swap though! Hopefully you pave the way for more people following the same path!

Early 80's BMW 530i. I've read about a guy swapping his 280zxt AFM internals into the body of the very much bigger bore 530i AFM. I've seen them both (thsoe 530i's were great cars! just Baaaaaaaaad on gas) and they look identical except for the size. You'll be wanting to get a bigger TB at the same time I think. If I had to guess I'd say that the BMW AFM has a 60-65mm bore compared to the 50-55mm one for the 280zxt.

Thats the same rear spoiler I have pete, by far my favorite on the early Z. Sure beats the whales tail I had on the Z when I first got it. (but did that MF produce downforce!!!!)

I sortof have to agree with Ross, at least in that I expect my car to see about 15k MILES a year... Low maintenance is not absolutely required, (I love to tinker) but it would be nice not to have to worry about certain things... brakes being one. I've not seen a lot of test info on sealed vs. non-sealed caliper design, but I'm interested if anyone can come across it and post a link or info here. I love the look of the Z32 calipers, especially with the NISSAN lettering on them. You guys think there is any way to use another rotor aside from skyline ones? (Made from unobtainium I am sure) As far as the caliper goes Mike, whats involved in mounting it? Just wondering if I can score some quality used calipers and do a quick rebuild on them, and then do my own thing. Don't really have the money to drop $825 or even $500US on brakes! My labour is free, so...

I sortof have to agree with Ross, at least in that I expect my car to see about 15k MILES a year... Low maintenance is not absolutely required, (I love to tinker) but it would be nice not to have to worry about certain things... brakes being one. I've not seen a lot of test info on sealed vs. non-sealed caliper design, but I'm interested if anyone can come across it and post a link or info here. I love the look of the Z32 calipers, especially with the NISSAN lettering on them. You guys think there is any way to use another rotor aside from skyline ones? (Made from unobtainium I am sure) As far as the caliper goes Mike, whats involved in mounting it? Just wondering if I can score some quality used calipers and do a quick rebuild on them, and then do my own thing. Don't really have the money to drop $825 or even $500US on brakes! My labour is free, so...

Mike have you tried looking at Keizer for wheels? They will make 3 piece, 7.25lbs 13x7 wheels for $166US. Very reasonable! However IIRC they can't go more than 5" BS for some reason. BTW, cheque is in the mail.

Actually Jim from a suspension design point of view it makes a lot more sense to have a higher positive offset wheel in the front. Basically this is done in the front to adjust the lower ball joint closer to where the centerline of the wheel is, reducing scrub radius, and steering effort along with it. Take a look at some F1 cars wheels sometimes and you'll think that yours look just right after that.

Hehe, we've used that book a ton for our FSAE car, specifically for suspension design. Its really worth its weight in gold, we've started calling it 'The Bible'. (no offense intended to anyone) Mine is the budget version. Anyone who spent time in university will know what that means. Anyway, check Zdriver.com's photo gallery, I think there are some similar wheels to those on a dark metallic blue car there, so you can check out the pictures.

Heh, I've seen that one before. We've also got at least 1 member here running an RB26DETT in his early Z... He's doing 11.2's I believe... crazy fast!

Well I have read that the VG30 is really light. I think it was the lightest production V6? (just from hazy memory) Sure the turbo's and associated plumbing add weight, but I'd be willing to bet its still much lighter than the L6.

Make sure lines are not cracked, replace if necessary... and tighten the hose clamps. Its quite a simple job, just remember that when you pull the lines off you will have fuel coming out. I usually just put my finger over the hole to stem the flow while I get everything straightened away. Make sure you have everything you need within arms reach though. Oh yeah if this is an EFI engine, make sure you relieve the fuel pressure before you disconnect anything!