Drax240z

200ft-lbs @ 2800rpm I believe. Hp is basically torque over time. For a turbo, torque is really easy to create. Just cram more air & fuel into the cylinder each time it fires. (more boost, more fuel) The hp will follow as a result of the torque increase.

From the site you linked: quote: Very few manufactures recommend 10W-40 any more, and some threaten to void warranties if it is used. It was not included in this article for that reason. 20W-50 is the same 30 point spread, but because it starts with a heavier base it requires less viscosity index improvers (polymers) to do the job. AMSOIL can formulate their 10W-30 and 15W-40 with no viscosity index improvers but uses some in the 10W-40 and 5W-30. Mobil 1 uses no viscosity improvers in their 5W-30, and I assume the new 10W-30. Follow your manufacturer's recommendations as to which weights are appropriate for your vehicle. quote Thats why 10W-40 is bad, M'Kay?

I would put a lot of money on it being lighter than the SBC... aluminum block/heads, and nissan has a bit of a reputation for lightweight engines. I'd expect it to be 100lbs lighter as a minimum. (but I don't know for sure!)

Yeah, damn near had the worlds first turbo propane Z. 110 octane stuff. Its common on vehicles up here to run on propane. My dads truck is propane powered. Oil stays golden brown for 3000miles every single time! Its such a clean burning fuel. Propane is 10% less efficient than gasoline when burned, but the extra octane really helps you build an engine to make up for those deficencies. As far as tanks and propane goes, its harder to ignite than gasoline. (hence the higher octane rating) Less explosive, less volitile, less flammable. From a safety standpoint it is superior than gasoline. I does require hardened valve seats, and can be hard on head gaskets however. (dries them out apparently) As well, the tanks tend to weight more than a similarly sized gasoline tank. (needs to be thicker to hold the high pressure) I ruled it out for my Z mostly because of the weight of the tank. For trucks or other cars where weight isn't a concern, it rules! (almost every taxicab in canada is propane powered, its also a lot cheaper than gasoline)

Actually I think removing the fender and bucket together, and putting them on a bench to work on is the real way to go. Especially the first time you take them apart in a long time. Make sure you put some kind of anti-sieze on the threads when you put them back together as they see a lot of water/road salt etc. and will rust again easily.

Maybe its just me, but I don't particularly like it. It screams rice to me. (and doesn't look right on the car IMHO) However, making something like that functional does interest me somewhat... though I think I'd rather have it exit elsewhere. To each his own!

I'd leave them chrome as well.

That would be an incredible swap! A bit of advice however... If this is going to be a fairly long project, I would take the time to do it right. The datsun wheelbase is something like (don't quote me) 8" shorter than the origional GTO was. My advice would be to extend the wheelbase those 8", and then get the V12 back as far as you could. I think you could have the right proportions that way, and still maintain a good weight distribution! Man, that would so kick ass, I can just imagine the exhaust note to go with it.

Hey cool idea, no doubt. Just one little word for you. $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$!!!

I've been watching this post. Its been civil, and no one seems to have gotten their feathers in a ruffle, so I am just going to let it be. Yes, its way off topic, but half the posts here turn into a discussion about something else part way through. Thats how great ideas come around. If anyone is offended with the contents of this particular topic, please feel free to contact me through email, and I will take care of it. Same thing goes for ANY post on boards I moderate. I'm guessing that the other moderators would also do the same for their boards.

Can't really weld with it, sorry. You will find it useful though. Heating up bolts then letting them cool is a really good method for loosening rusty ones. Just be wary of what's behind the metal you're heating, don't set your carpet on fire or anything like that.

And if you happen to strip the heads, they can be removed with a pair of vice grips, been there, done that.

If money is tight (it is for me!) then you'll get ahead buying your own tools and parts and learning how to work on cars. (a haynes manual can take you a long way!) Mechanics charge a lot of money to do very little. Much better off spending the same amount on tools, which you'll have for life and only have to buy once. Plus you'll know your car better.

Well, None. Race proven? Don't think so. Do yourself a favor and run good quality synthetics and add NOTHING. Slick 50 has been proven to do more harm than good, and any of the other PTFE (Teflon) based products are similar. For PTFE (polytetrafluoroethylene) to provide lubrication it must be in a long chain form. Much like graphite is. Basically it works like microscopic rollers that roll together to provide lubrication. The big problem is that these rollers are 10-15 microns long. BTW, most oil filters filter to 5 microns. So basically 95% of the PTFE will be filtered out on the first pass anyway. Furthurmore they use other chemicals in the product to make it 'stick' to engine parts. Not good. PTFE repels oil like water on a ducks back. PTFE will never enhance lubrication, it will replace oil as the lubrication. The biggest problem with that is heat dissipation for things like valve springs. Valve springs are designed to have a constant coating of oil to dissipate the heat from them. PTFE will drastically diminish the amount of heat transfer that takes place between the steel and the oil. Furthurmore PTFE doesn't have a high enough shear strength to be used in this way. Its ok in light load applications where temperatures are not over 250F, but an IC engine is not light load, nor 250F. At higher temperature like and engine sees PTFE will not be able to bond to any parts. (try putting a teflon frying pan in a hot fire and see what happens to the teflon) Dupont invented PTFE and I've used it a lot in industrial applications. It is an AWESOME material for the right applications. But expecting it to perform in conditions so far beyond what it was designed for it silly. (no offense intended, that was more directed at the slick 50 people) Dupont has gone on record saying that PTFE is totally inappropriate for internal combustion engines. They ought to know a thing or two about it. Not trying to shoot you down, just providing the facts. I did a bit of research on this topic a few years ago as you might have guessed.

Scott, if I remember correctly there is a pushrod that is adjustable between your brake pedal and booster. Sounds to me like you need to adjust this to be longer, so that it actuates the booster immediately. DrewZ set up the toyota 4x4 front setup on my car, and I must say it kicks serious ass for pedal feel. Rock hard, you sneeze on the pedal and you'll come to a stop. He said all he did was adjust that pushrod...

Doesn't look like your headgasket. Compression is much too high. For example, when mine went last month my compression check from 1-6 yielded: 125/125/125/125/125/45 It was pretty obvious #6 had blown the headgasket. (lots of white smoke, loss of coolant, etc) From your wet results, it looks like your rings are going. THe large jump from dry to wet in cylinders 1-4 would indicate rings more than anything else, and this would definately explain your oil burning problem.

Try getting them through another company like ground control. You'll pay a lot less than MSA will charge you if you shop around.

Naw you just tuck it into your sock. Ahem. I was talking about arms... what are you guys talking about?

Lone, notice I said python(s). I like to refer to it in plural, as the sheer image of 56" is too much for most people.

Those dogleg shift patterns are cool! Lamborghini uses that pattern in all their cars, pretty good theory behind it too. Its that in road racing you execute the 2-3 and 3-2 shifts much more than the 1-2,2-1 so why not make them right above and below each other to speed up the shifts? That said, I think it would hurt you in drag racing.

Nitrous isn't allowed. Superchargers and turbo's are, but they still have to breathe throught the same intake restrictor.

Just an addendum here. Try to find a piece of hardwood for a cam chain tensioning wedge, either that or order the piece of plastic that MSA sells (for around $10 I think) for that job. Soft wood can splinter a bit, and generally you don't want wood slivers anywhere in there. I managed to do mine without taking the carbs/intake or exhaust manifold off the head. Just lifted it all out as a unit. Probably best to have 2 people when you go to do that. I did it alone but it was a bit of a struggle lifting head/intake/exhaust in and out while leaning over the 2 feet to get over the fender.

Well Pete's taken 11 years to 'fix some rust'. I've taken 16 months to do an 'engine swap'. And I am sure everyone else on this board can relate.

The bushings wear. Remember how old the car is, the stock rubber just doesn't last. I put urethane bushings in my whole front end. Total cost was somewhere around $125canadian for all the front end stuff. It wasn't that hard to do really, my problem is that "while its apart, I might as well _____" Seems to be a plague on this board.

Hell yeah! I'm one of 5 or 6 core members on this project. I believe my job will be test driving mostly, due to the fact that I am by far the largest person we have, and if its gonna break, it'll break with me driving. Basically for the competition we need 4 drivers. We are going to hold tryouts, and the 4 fastest people will be driving, regardless of size, weight etc. We do have 2 people that have raced formula fords, so that should be a nice anchor. Also we are hoping to race this car in SCCA autocrosses in april before the competition. Should be a blast.