Drax240z

Hey now, Ti is really cool stuff! You could have that baby sit in the sun all day long and it wouldn't be hot at all. That was about the only practical purpose I could come up with... oh yeah, weight savings. Probably 1/4lbs over a similar steel unit. And lone, didn't you mean to cross drill your brake lines? Sheesh, some of the mis-information going around here...

Peter! Didn't realize you were doing a 305 swap! Let me know when you're done so I can see! Glad you found us here, I'm sure you'll find more information than one human can safely digest.

POR-15 is awesome stuff. I've used it a lot on my car, and its TOUGH. I found it best applied to a rough (sandblasted in my case) surface. If its on bare metal, rough it up with some 80 grit sandpaper or something similar. Remember though, POR-15 is quite thin, and it will not fill holes overly well. Your plan to weld metal to both sides is a good solution. Just make sure that your welds are water tight from the start, and then POR-15 it. If water were to get between those plates it would rust out very quickly again.

Ahem, I said Ferrari and Lotus are a little notchy... a little notchy in the same way that the surface of the sun is a little warm, that is.

I've been wondering about this for a while. People say the Tremec's are 'notchy'... what are they comparing it to? Take an E30 BMW, no notch, not even a little. Compare to the nissan tranny that came in the Z's, and the Z's have notchy shifters! I believe that I've read that the nissan engineers added the notchyness to the Z trans after the fact to give it the character of a GT sports car. Look at all the great GT's out there, ferrari, lotus, porsche, etc. All a little notchy. Personally I would rather have my shifter notchy than be wondering what gear I was in!

Wow, those are nice. What did one of those run you pete?

Likely how much boost pressure it can handle. The BOV will still see 15psi boost if you are running 15psi at the turbo outlet. You need to be able to adjust it, since your BOV at 15psi is the same one that someone else might buy for their 7psi application. Obviously the 15psi one would need to be stiffer not to leak, when compared with the same BOV in the 7psi environment.

The BOV does not perform the same function as the POV. The POV is simply a safety device to keep the engine from being overboosted accidentally. Nothing more. The BOV works as you described, venting pressurized air between the turbo and the throttle plate when the plate is closed. Nothing more. Having one does not cover for the other.

Middle ones are 2 5/8".

Well Pete took the words out of my mouth. Lets say there is a 300lbs difference. With 300lbs of well thought out chassis bracing the 240 could probably be a magnitude stiffer than a stock 280 at the same weight could be. 300lbs of bracing is overkill more than likely though. I certainly could tell the difference in handling between the 280zx and 240z's I've had. Granted there are a lot of other variables in there (suspension layout, wear, etc) but I'd sooner start with the lighter car. However I do like the 74 and up center console better. An early 74 would be a nice cantidate for a project car if you could find one.

I can't remember the exact coversion, but I typically just multiply #'s by 10 to get cc's. Its not how its supposed to be done, but it gives you a ballpark figure. 36# would be in the area of 360cc. (+/- 30)

Wish I had thought it out a bit more... I parted out/crushed a 9/72 car that I had in my name, and bought another 9/72 car from out of province. Would have been nice to be able to avoid the big pain of getting it safety inspected and so on. Maybe next time.

Yup! Do what Tim said. I did some experimenting on stock wiring headlight output, and 'cleaner' wiring for the headlights, and there was a world of difference. I wish I had measured the voltage at the time though. I have relays just sitting waiting for my car to have headlights again. BTW, I don't think I'd run H4's without relays. Asking for trouble IMHO.

Here is a picture of that supra spoiler clint and I were talking about. Nice to see something different!

One more thing I should have mentioned. A 2.25" mandrel bent system will flow around the same as a 2.5" press bent system. When I was saying 2.25" is enough for around 400rwhp, thats assuming that its mandrel bent.

Ron, it depends entirely on what type of horsepower you plan on producing. I am going to run a 2.25" pipe with my setup, but that leaves me room to grow. I'm not sure what the heavy hitters like TimZ and 240Z Turbo are running, but I don't think either of them are over 2.5", and thats for over 400rwhp. When you start getting too larger a pipe you'll start losing velocity, as well as adding a huge amount of volume to your intake system, which coul hurt throttle response, as well as causing a larger pressure drop from turbo outlet to manifold. I'd say if you are looking for up to 400rwhp, 2.25" should be sufficient. I can't say that 100% sure, however. I'm looking forwards to hearing others response.

Jamie, I am pretty sure that using non-conductive moly lube on things like head bolts will stop the battery effect between the aluminum and the steel. [ July 26, 2001: Message edited by: Drax240z ]

Evan I must say I like your choices in cars. Please let us know when you update your site, and more pictures of all 3 cars would really kick butt! Mmmmm.... M5!!

Yeah no doubt clint! That thing was awesome... Lets see if I can find the picture of it... OK here it is. http://www.zcar.com/forums/read.php?f=4&i=16970&t=16970 That is the discussion about it at zcar.com. Unfortuantely zdriver.com is hosting the picture and they've been down for the last few days... as you can see there is a big market for it.

Driving? he says. Maybe we can arrange a trade for a bit.

I have a center inlet, offset outlet Dynomax super turbo on my 74, it fits well.

If its just rubbing the fenders, you could always try to roll the fender lip. May be hard to do without cracking the paint slightly, but its a pretty stardard way of getting a touch more clearance.

When you say sensors distance from the magnet 'looks ok' does that mean that its in spec? If its too far, no spark... as I am sure you are aware of. Had the same problem with a very erratic spark once, moved the sensor closer and there was a big improvement. Not much to the ignition system... Are you sure that you haven't got a dead coil in there? Have another that you can try for a second? Just because its new doesn't mean it works...

Well conventional wisdom suggests that you won't get a lot more than 250hp out of the stock system, but there are a few out there that are getting 300!! It can be done, but it becomes an issue of applying a bunch of band-aid type fixes to make the car perform. If you are serious about HP I would really suggest getting something programmable. SDS is about the cheapest one out there, and I'm impressed with the quality. There are many more systems out there, with many more features as well. (the big one being datalogging IMHO) Scottie-GNZ had about the best inexpensive recipie for sucess that I've seen out of an L28 turbo. He was running 13.09@110.97 with very similar mods to what I am doing. -SDS -NPR intercooler -370cc injectors -stock turbo, engine internals -55mm throttle body -2.5" downpipe, 3" exhaust I believe that the injectors were closing in on maximum duty cycle at that point, and to be sure the turbo was maxxed out, or beyond that! If you are serious about 300rwhp, you'll probably want to think about 420cc injectors, and a slightly bigger turbo. Check out the links at the bottom of that turbo article and read scotties page. Its well worth it.

Yup listen to lone, he knows! From what I recall the early Z had a Cd of 0.44, or 0.45. Better than the dodge 'clownshoe' viper, but not great. Look through the high tech forum for discussions on aerodynamics, we have covered this a fair bit.