Drax240z

283Z, your reasons are sound as far as I am concerned. I think that would make an excellent Z engine. Yes you can get 350 parts growing on trees, but there is something to be said for being a little different. Besides if the power bug bites you later on, there are lots of ways to get more power and torque even out of a little 283. Remember, technology is the only replacement for displacement. BTW, I've never heard anything bad said about the 283, from all accounts its a good design.

So let me get this straight. You have: A) Threaded turnbuckle on wastegate actuator rod to adjust its length. Pressure relief valve to aid in spoolup. C) Needle-type bleed off valve on the wastegate vacuum line. Wouldn't it be possible just to use the bleed off valve to set your boost pressure? Or just the turnbuckle? The check valve/pressure release valve is an excellent idea btw... Where'd you find one that works at 15psi?

Lone, I think my spring loaded nylon pads were what was doing the squeeking on my car! I noticed when I had the whale's tail on, that the hatch squeeked until I got over about 80mph and the downforce pressed it down. Enough to drive you and the mice mad, isn't it?

quote I'm laughing my ass off over that! Very well put! I am sure you will see an improvement with the airdam, I sure did! Oh yeah, the rear ones help quite a bit too from my experience.

David, I saw a site recently (it may even have been posted on this board) about a guy that made a jet using an old turbo in his basement. Maybe someone can chime in with the URL as for some reason I didn't bookmark it. I've also seen an MR2 with 3 small jets on the back. However, on a street car I think you are just asking for trouble.

Greater PMOI is going to -hurt- your handling, not help it. What polar moment of inertia is, is the tendancy for your car to spin around its center of gravity. The greater your PMOI is, the more torque that is acting to make your car spin. I'm pretty sure that PMOI won't be effected by the wheelbase increase, but WILL be effected by the increase in distance from the Cg. The end result, your PMOI will be higher than before. But, as Pete said, the tires being furthur away from the Cg should act in the opposite manner than the increased PMOI does. I think the final result will be that your PMOI increases related to the square of the distance, while the torque increase from moving the wheels furthur will increase linearly with the distance. So in the end, you'll hurt your handling a bit. (if I am right, and who knows?)

Looking good, but you can't stop there! How are the new changes? Whats good, whats bad? Let us know!

Hmm, I think polar moment of inertia is dependant on the distance from the object in question, to the center of gravity of the vehicle, and is independant of where the wheels are. Though the other way makes sense too. Pete?

Hey Owen, are you putting cross-drilled brake lines on there at the same time?

Well thats ok, I've read the whole post about 6 times now, and I'm really confused now. I was fine before! (yes, really) - 3.1L will put out around 11% more power than a similar 2.8L - Mild/moderate turbo setup will leave them both behind. - Turbo setup will make funny noises, 3.1L will make other funny noises. These aren't the same funny noises. Does that clear it up? I think I'm more confused now.

First off I wouldn't trust the stock gauge as far as I can throw it. If you are doing this swap spend the extra $50 to buy a quality gauge. The stock setup ran around 6-7psi boost. $1250 isn't too bad a price, but I would of course try to get a bargain. If the car truly runs well, then it should make your swap easier. I wouldn't go around removing emissions stuff until I had completed the swap and had the car running... just too many variables if things are going wrong and you are removing things and doing the swap at the same time, and the car doesn't run right. With no intercooler, I'm guessing 9-10psi boost is achiveable. However, if you do that and fry your engine don't hold me responsible! I would gradually up it, see how it runs, then up it a bit more, being very careful to notice knock.

You may want to check out "How To Make Your Car Handle" by Fred Puhn. Lots of suspension info in there, including procedures for making up your own tools to check everything. Its a pretty darn nice book if that type of stuff interests you.

The resonator muffles the sound a lot more on most cars than the actual muffler does. As far as I know, the only legality issue is decible level, and possibly cat/no cat for emissions. The actual exhaust configuration isn't checked outside those boundries.

In the 1/8th.

Did the car hesitate before it stalled? I had a similar problem, clogged fuel filter it turned out to be. Very sporatic problem. If you have any type of hesitation when you floor it, I'd be looking at fuel first. ------------------ "Nothing is fool proof to a sufficiently talented fool." Richard Lewis - 1972 240z, Powered by a Nissan 2.8L Turbo Inline 6. Drax240's Turbo Site Beginners Turbo FAQ & Answers

Well yes you are probably going a little bit faster than you think because of the slightly higher tire diameter that your new tires have. Old tire diameter: 24.157" New tire diameter: 25.327" About a 5% difference. You may want to factor that into your thinking if you know your speedo was accurate before. As for high speed stability, it sounds like you have some type of suspension problem happening. Do you have urethane steering rack mounts & coupler, or rubber? As for the air dam, here's my story. I had a MSA front airdam on my 73, and it was cracked at the point that it attached since I had first got it. It wasn't on there very well, and it would move a fair bit at highway speeds. I didn't really notice any problems. Then one day I got around to refiberglassing it, and I mounted it really solidly. I absolutely couldn't believe how much better the car felt at speed. It tracked straighter, ran smoother, etc. Everything was improved by just tightening it up. I felt I could much more safely travel at even higher speeds. I hope you can get this sorted out, as its been happening for a while now... Doesn't sound too safe. ------------------ "Nothing is fool proof to a sufficiently talented fool." Richard Lewis - 1972 240z, Powered by a Nissan 2.8L Turbo Inline 6. Drax240's Turbo Site Beginners Turbo FAQ & Answers

From my rather limited experience the best sound you can get out of a 6 is to put a resonator as close to the exhaust manifold as you can, and then run straightpipes afterwards. By putting a resonator in that position you eliminate that terrible exhaust drone that can occur. And by not having anything after that you get a nice, mellow, somewhat load, but very smooth tone. 2.25" or 2.5" should suffice nicely. (I'd probably go with 2.5" if you have any other mods, headers, cam, intake, etc) ------------------ "Nothing is fool proof to a sufficiently talented fool." Richard Lewis - 1972 240z, Powered by a Nissan 2.8L Turbo Inline 6. Drax240's Turbo Site Beginners Turbo FAQ & Answers

LMAO!!! I predict than when this race finally comes, you both run high 12's. It would just fit. ------------------ "Nothing is fool proof to a sufficiently talented fool." Richard Lewis - 1972 240z, Powered by a Nissan 2.8L Turbo Inline 6. Drax240's Turbo Site Beginners Turbo FAQ & Answers

We really need a lot more info than that. You used a 280T block, with flattop or round top pistons? What is the head casting number? (between spark plug #1 and #2) What cam? Exhaust size? What induction? Webers? Mikunis? SU's? Roundtop Su's? Header or stock xhaust manifold? Answer all of those and you should get a more reasonable estimation. ------------------ "Nothing is fool proof to a sufficiently talented fool." Richard Lewis - 1972 240z, Powered by a Nissan 2.8L Turbo Inline 6. Drax240's Turbo Site Beginners Turbo FAQ & Answers

Wheels are one of the least important things to me right now. First comes coilovers, paint, sway bars, brakes. Maybe then I'll look for some 17x8 wheels. Some Volk TE37's would be nice. ------------------ "Nothing is fool proof to a sufficiently talented fool." Richard Lewis - 1972 240z, Powered by a Nissan 2.8L Turbo Inline 6. Drax240's Turbo Site Beginners Turbo FAQ & Answers

I think I'll take Hoover's Turbo out of his hands to reduce his inventory by one. Hehe. Pretty soon we'll have his whole house sold off without him knowing. ------------------ "Nothing is fool proof to a sufficiently talented fool." Richard Lewis - 1972 240z, Powered by a Nissan 2.8L Turbo Inline 6. Drax240's Turbo Site Beginners Turbo FAQ & Answers

Hmm, if they weren't on the car it would be a lot easier to take a picture. Maybe if Evan sees this he can post the link to the picture he had before. I now realize that the 205/50/15's I have on the car are kinda small!! Hehe. Oh well, better gearing for me. ------------------ "Nothing is fool proof to a sufficiently talented fool." Richard Lewis - 1972 240z, Powered by a Nissan 2.8L Turbo Inline 6. Drax240's Turbo Site Beginners Turbo FAQ & Answers

Just got my set from Evan, and slapped them on the car. Woohoo! Very nice pieces, well designed and DAMN the car looks a lot better with the wheels properly offset. I can't wait to see how much the wider stance helps. ------------------ "Nothing is fool proof to a sufficiently talented fool." Richard Lewis - 1972 240z, Powered by a Nissan 2.8L Turbo Inline 6. Drax240's Turbo Site Beginners Turbo FAQ & Answers

Yeah knock sensors are on the borderline for me. A nice safety device to be sure, but not worth the hassle! I had lots of problems with my knock sensor on my celica... PITA. 10's here you go! ------------------ "Nothing is fool proof to a sufficiently talented fool." Richard Lewis - 1972 240z, Powered by a Nissan 2.8L Turbo Inline 6. Drax240's Turbo Site Beginners Turbo FAQ & Answers

Sorry, I thought you'd know what I was talking about. The 1981-1983 280zx came in a turbo model, which was the "well engineered system" that I was talking about. You could swap in the whole setup for fairly inexpensively, but you'd probably be best to find a turbo car that is allready running, and swap it out of there, complete with wiring. Its not a small job, its a complete engine swap. But if you are willing to substitue a lot of your own work, you should be able to do it without spending a lot. ------------------ "Nothing is fool proof to a sufficiently talented fool." Richard Lewis - 1972 240z, Powered by a Nissan 2.8L Turbo Inline 6. Drax240's Turbo Site Beginners Turbo FAQ & Answers