Drax240z

Cool, another Hockey fan in our midst. I won't mention what I think of Dallas. Hehe. Suppose this is your triangle Kevin: What we can say about this, if a right angled triangle: (angle a=90*) Pythagoran theorem: A^2 = B^2 + C^2 sin © = C/A cos © = B/A tan © = C/B sec © = A/B csc © = A/C cot © = B/C And as you've stated (this holds true for any triangle, not just right ones): Law of Sines: Sin ©/C = Sin (a)/A = Sin (b)/B Law of Cosines: A^2 = B^2 + C^2 - 2BC Cos (a) And if I am not mistaken, than is all the relationships in a triangle, regarding angles and sides. (obviously not including areas, perimeters, etc) I'm not totally sure I understood what you were trying to find, but it can be done using these formulae if it can be done at all.

Love those smooth surfaces that curve in all the right places... Oh yeah, the car is nice too I guess.

I just put a little piece of electrical tape over each hole. Its worked fine for me. Duct tape would work too I imagine.

POR-15 baby! After using it, all other paints seem 'temporary' to me. (like 15 years is temporary) POR-15 is there to stay.

The fact that you were getting a cure at all means that you had the ratio pretty darn close. Its not like polyester resin in that you can vary the amount of catalyst to speed up/slow down the cure. Epoxy simply won't cure if its that far off. 70 sounds plenty warm enough to me for it to cure. Some epoxy's do gain structurally from a post cure heat cycle however, I've heard that it can be in the neighborhood of 20-30% additional strength. Food for thought.

2 5/8" worked for me. The trick is to keep the plastic bezel on the stock datsun gauges, and use it when you put in the new gauges. You can get a perfect alignment, and a very clean install by doing that. If you don't use the existing plastic bezel, you'll end up with them sticking out quite a bit more. That said, it worked well for autometer stuff. I couldn't get VDO up here (big surprise) or I would have.

If you still have the stock flat-top carbs, I would make my first upgrade to get rid of them, if you can't do an engine swap.

Lone, epoxy stuff is really tempermental to the ratio for one thing. Take extra care to be sure than you are getting 1:1. Also epoxies require to be mixed very well, more so than other types of resin. From the books I've read on the subject, almost all problems with epoxy stem from one of these 2 things. I recommend the book "Fiberglass & Composite Materials" by Forbes Aird if you are looking for some "extra" literature.

Oh yeah, it really doesn't work on glossy surfaces very well. Like Jim said, rusty surfaces, or sandblasted ones seem to work best. Almost everything I applied it to was sandblasted first, and its on there darn good. I had it over existing paint in one spot, and it scraped off fairly easily.

I bought the mid size stuff, a quart I guess? (silly units, anyway) I've done now: - Firewall forward, inner fenders, under frame rails, etc. - Under windshield cowling - Complete front suspension - Floor pans And I'm not even half way through that quart yet. It goes a LOOOOOONG way!

"OK brain, I don't like you and you don't like me, but get me through this, and I'll go back to slowly killing you with beer." - Homer Simpson

Sorry Ross, I wrote a big reply to this a few days ago, and I guess it didn't post. Must have been a hiccup on my ISP or something. Mark L's nephew, Kurt, was having almost exactly the same problem this weekend with his 72. He's got monster flares, and is running a 245/50R16 on all 4 corners, incidently with 16x7" Rikens. But the car is LOW, and every bump the passanger rear was rubbing the flares. Of course, it didn't help that I was sitting in the passanger seat. Personally I think his springs were shot, as he just replaced the rear struts the day before with KYB's. That and the 245/50R16's are a huge diameter. I wonder if its something with the Riken wheels, or if its just a matter of both cars having too much tire for the wheel?

Hmm, ok lets use some pictures to show this a bit better, since I have them. The boost gauge is the only one of the 3 that is mounted using the 'shell' off the old Datsun gauges in this picture. You'll notice the water temp and oil pressure gauges are sort of aimed randomly. In this picture you can see how the old datsun gauges were mounted, the brackets on the autometer gauges, and what I did to span one to the other. Maybe that will help someone out.

Kevin, you could probably just do a bit of a modification to your old ones to get them to be brighter. Actually they were probably bright enough from the factory, and years of dirt/corrosion has caused you lights to get less than adequate power. Seems to me than in both my early Z's the gauge lighting was not a problem, too bright at full power to use. I'm not sure how you mounted yours lone, I needed to make my own brakets to mount mine in the middle of the dash. The supplied ones weren't anywhere near large enough that I could tell.

A perfect summary Lone, pretty much answers the carb vs. EFI turbo debate. (One day I am going to write a tech article about that, it seems to come up a lot) KS73Z, if you were to run with an SU, it would still open. The piston doesn't necessarily need vacuum behind it to lift it up, it just needs less pressure behind it than is on the face. If there is 15psi pushing on the face, and 14psi behind it, it will move up. The same principle as a drinking straw really. I think its *possible* to get a decently running blow through setup. However, you'd need to modify carbs to get them to work. I still think for the under $1000 that you can get an SDS for, its a far better answer in every way.

Knife edging is usually reserved for those engines that are looking for every last ounce of power, IMHO. As far as the L28 crank, remember that it is a forged unit. Nissan is wonderful for always using beefy, forged cranks. I doubt you'll ever find need for a heftier crank, unless you want to go over 8000rpm. For an application over 400hp I would follow randy's suggestion. Save your money and spend it elsewhere!

I'm another one of those engineers in training, however even though I haven't finished my degree I have had 3 seperate engineering jobs. (the beauty of co-op) I would say I am more mechanically gifted than 99% of the mechanical engineers I know, however I've met more than a few mechanics, millwrights, welders, and 'hacks' that certainly far exceed me in that regard. After seeing it more than a few times, I have been thinking that to graduate as a mechanical engineer you should be tested that you can change the tire on a car first. Seriously, I've seen my share of certified professional engineers that couldn't. Unfortunately for society as a whole, the two things don't go hand in hand. Here's the beauty though. Having mechanical aptitude can help you a TON when it comes to engineering. Its what I've called mechanical common sense. "You don't put the filter that you have to replace every 500hours in a place that you have to dismantle half the engine to get to." I wish caterpillar had thought of that. I had the luck to work in a coal mine on my first co-op term, and believe me, the mechanics I worked with took every opportunity to impress on me (the young engineer) what sucks about engineers. I learned a heck of a lot from that.

Yes, you can. I see your problem. It should read: <img>http://www.kevins.s5.com/zfarthumb.jpg</img> And thats it, using the [ ] brackets instead of the < > ones.

Thanks Pete, bookmarked. You engineering types might want to check out: http://www.efunda.com/home.cfm I've found it a handy online reference.

Clint I had the same thought a while ago, but it really won't work very well. It would be difficult to find and engine that at any point in its rotation has one valve in each cylinder closed. If any 1 cylinder has both valves open you are going to have a tough time holding pressure. Maybe if you had enough airflow you could do it... But I'm guessing that amount is going to be pretty high.

Hmm, good point!

A little off topic, has anyone been following the SCRAM-Jet process? I heard that they were doing some testing recently. Anyone know anything about it?

Ack, I think I'll buy some really cheap wrenches if I have to do that!

Well, I got the engine in the car today. Good thing too! Looks right at home in there. Anyway, I still have the driveshaft attached at the rear to the diff, without the front being slid into the tranny. The 4 bolts on my driveshaft connecting it to the diff are pretty darn hard to move. I oiled them down and am letting them sit now... But when you guys removed your driveshaft the first time, did you come up with any tricks to get those 4 bolts out? I can't really get much more than 3/4 of an open end wrench on it.

Its somtimes amazing how much you can learn about something just trying to track down 1 little problem, isn't it? Sounds like you are on the warpath scottie. Good luck to you. Let us know how you're intake temps differ across the NPR and the air-water when you get it setup. I'm interested in knowing.