Drax240z

`Allo Peter. I'm hoping to be around the same neighborhood as you for power... I would say that you don't really need frame mods, just be sure that your frame is in good shape. I'd recommend a 4 point roll bar/cage and a way to triangulate the front strut towers/firewall at the very least. If you want, I am going to be getting some material to make myself a 6 point cage soon, maybe we can go halfers on material or something. (I expect we'll be able to get it in naniamo) You definately want to strengthen the chassis after just getting all your bodywork done... cracks suck! ------------------ Richard Lewis

2+2's, turbos and 2+2 turbos, all had 240mm flywheels to the best of my knowledge. There should be no difference between the engines in the 2+2 turbos, and the turbo coupes. ------------------ Richard Lewis

I know a couple of guys with them, but I'm not sure anyone I know has actually put them into a car before! The ratio sounds correct to me though. ------------------ Richard Lewis

I am almost ready to put my engine in, just have to workout the flywheel clutch install. My engine was formerly an auto, so it just had a flexplate, and spacer with the 6 attaching bolts. Now I have a 240mm MT flywheel. I know I need to get rid of the spacer that was on there with the flex plate, add a pilot bushing to the crankshaft (for the input shaft of the tranny)... What I am wondering, is if I need to find some bolts meant for a MT flywheel, or if the AT flexplate ones are the same. The flexplate weighed around 4-8lbs, while the flywheel is 27lbs... rotating at 6000+ rpm I want to be sure. ------------------ Richard Lewis

Likewise I am interested. I emailed you. ------------------ Richard Lewis

Scott: I am not sure what BMW fuse box you are speaking of, but it sure doesn't sound like the E30 one! (1984-1990 3-series) The E30 one has receptacles for ~50 blade fuses, and 8 relays. It also has a nice see through plastic lid. Best looking one I've ever seen. Not sure what you were talking about... the older 70's cars perhaps? ------------------ Richard Lewis

And I'm wondering how you did the 95 Ford heater control swap! Did you switch everything over to vaccuum actuated, or did you just use those new controls with your cable setup? ------------------ Richard Lewis

Hell yes it makes a difference stiffening up the front end. I did a tower to tower bar last year and I couldn't believe how many less creaks and groans there were, and the turn in was a lot crisper. (on the street) I plan on making a bar to go to the firewall as well, like terry did. Very nice. You can see pics of my car with the strut tower brace I made for it, if you click on my link in my signature. They are on the page that has pics of my old 73. ------------------ Richard Lewis

I had heard that the zx moustache bars won't work and you needed a 280z one? Please someone tell me that is incorrect and you can use the zx one! Much easier to find. ------------------ Richard Lewis

Myron, not trying to step on any toes here. But if you don't plan on hitting the strip at all, do you need to go through all the cost of adding a 4 link? If its purely a street car, I'd really consider running an IRS. If you are worried about the R200/CV joints's durability, then maybe it would be worth your while to look into the R230 vicous LSD. I just don't quite get why you'd change it to a 4 link... Maybe I am missing something. ------------------ Richard Lewis

Hey Mr. Relay, how have you added these exactly? Do you have a large relay "box" that all your wiring for them goes into, or are they all seperate? I'd love to add a few myself, but I'm a little at a loss how to mount them all without finding a decent OEM fuse box. I'd absolutely love to rewire the whole car with the E30 BMW fuse/relay box... but thats another story. Do you have something similar, and if so where can I get one and how much? ------------------ Richard Lewis

Look around the old messages in this forum, I had considered the swap in the past and found out a few things that I posted in the past. ------------------ Richard Lewis

I too, eagerly await to hear more about Gregs Z. I keep checking back to his webiste, not much going on there! It sure would be nice to see a few more 11 second Z's out there. Or 10 second ones! Furthurmore there aren't a whole heck of a lot of 11 second Nissan powered Z's out there. (maybe I'll be there someday though) ------------------ Richard Lewis

Hey pete, that's the Isuzu NPR intercooler off the isuzu truck. Same one I'm running, along with a bazillion others! (scotties running it too) Evan had some pretty nice modifications done to it. (Moving the inlet to the side of the end tank) Looks like it was done really well from the pictures. ------------------ Richard Lewis

Did you talk to Mitch in Duncan, the guy I referred to you? Dan Giroux in surrey almost always has an early z or two for sale. You can reach him at: datsun240z@home.com Also, you may want to talk to Greg Macauley in Victoria, he often finds them: znut2@home.com If neither of those work, I know of a 280z that needs a lot of metal work done... But I am sure you can find better. ------------------ Richard Lewis

Actually this isn't entirely true. A guy on zcar.com (IAN FIC) is running the stock EFI with his 3.1L turbo engine (not stock) and he is into the low 12's (I think) in the quarter. He was one of the previous cars of the month over there if you are looking for more information. It CAN be done. Whether its worth the bother or not is somewhat questionable. I chose not to bother. ------------------ Richard Lewis

Price of Focus as tested: $475,000 Price of Z06 as tested: $50,000? (Can't remember but the figures were something like that) I have no idea how they could spend nearly half a million on that car, they must have has a typical big company's efficiency going overtime! ------------------ Richard Lewis

The only place I could find them was MSA. I had them in my hands within 4 days, and that was right after christmas. I was impressed! ------------------ Richard Lewis

I liked maximum boost by corky bell for some basic turbo info. (its a good read) Most turbo places should be able to help you properly size the turbo for your engine. Just make sure you know what you want before you call them. (as far as performance goes, they will be able to help you choose a/r ratios, impellors, etc.) ------------------ Richard Lewis

Thats the route I took too Nion. Burned out the rubber, then made 2 cuts about 1/4" apart with a hacksaw. Chiseled and hammered them out. Next time I will be making 1 cut, heating the shell up red hot and trying to bend it in on itself from there. BTW, follow SCCA's tip and emery the inner surface to smooth it out again after you remove the old sleeves. You don't want your new bushings shredding themselves on sharp metal in there. ------------------ Richard Lewis

Yeah 14-18 sounds a whole lot more reasonable to me. I checked my other book (the wick humble one) and it gave the 40-54ft-lb listing for the castle nut. I'm not 100% sure, but I think haynes is messed up there. As far as the FSM goes... I have the engine from an 82, the chassis from a 72, which is insured as a 72, but has the same date of production as my last 73, a rear from a 79, a tranny from a 77, swaybars from an 81, alternator from a 81... well you get the idea. I may yet break down and get the 72 or 73 one. (not sure which) This bolt was a 13mm head size. Anyway, I am more than happy with the 14-18ft-lbs that tim quoted there, seems like a reasonable figure. I'm not anal about everything as far as torque goes, but I wanted to try my torque wrench out too! ------------------ Richard Lewis [This message has been edited by Drax240z (edited March 12, 2001).]

Hey all. I was finally getting around to putting my front suspension onto my car today after the paint job. Anyway, I was going over everything with my torque wrench, making sure everything was to spec. I got to the 2 bolts that hold on each ball joint to the control arm, and read my haynes. 45 lb-ft. Hmm, seemed like a lot to me for those little bolts. (somewhere between 1/4" and 5/16" in metric) Sure enough, before I got to 45 ft-lbs I snapped the head off the bolt. Argh! The torque wrench is brand new, this was actually the first time I have used it. I am 99.9% sure it was set correctly. I think that either I was reading the wrong torque spec in my manual, or that it was incorrect. So can someone check their manual for me and see what the torque on those 2 bolts should be? (I only have haynes, so if someone has a chiltons or factory...?) Thanks in advance... ------------------ Richard Lewis

Well my first reaction is that that is a hell of a lot of dough. But that said, I have no idea what the SS valves would go for. I payed around $250US to have a stock rebuild done, valve job, surface plane, etc. Sorry I can't really offer much more advice. Try asking 240z Turbo about it, I believe that he had all that done on his head and more. (And I also think that he had a lot of problems with TEP too) ------------------ Richard Lewis

Mike, try talking to Mark Lawrence about it. He got a really sweet deal on his through a place in Campbell River. ------------------ Richard Lewis

Well the owner of the shop gave me a verbal quote before we got started... so if he doesn't stick to that I'll be looking elsewhere. Drewz. Baby is growing up! Hehe. Don't worry I'll let you know when I have some pictures. (hopefully just after the engine install) ------------------ Richard Lewis