Drax240z

Morgan raises a good point. I've experimented with plate heat exchangers, (industrial) and I remember one situation where we had varied the number of plates in the heat exchanger from 7, up to 13 plates. (increasing the size) We found that the lower velocity and therefore less turbulance did in fact have a negative effect on our heat transfer. We eventually settled on the most efficient setup, 9 plates. BUT, my example is of a titanium HTX water-water, and a relatively slow ~5.0L/min. I have the feeling if I did the same experiment with a large air to air intercooler, you'd find this point to occur at a VERY large volume, much larger than the size of the "large" intercoolers out there today. I guess what I am saying is that there is a lot more volume of air going through than most people realize, at 14psi boost, at 7000rpm on a 2.8L engine we are talking 39,200LITERS of atmospheric pressure air a minute! While Morgans point is valid, I believe that the relatively small size of ANY automotive intercooler compared to the 40,000L of air minute that it sees, is undersized... and therefore has a high air velocity through it. ------------------ "THE STREETS WILL FLOW WITH THE OIL OF THE NON-BELIEVERS" Drax240z 1972 240z - L28TURBO transplant on the way! http://members.xoom.com/r_lewis/datsun.html

Another interesting point, cost is $295. (not sure if that is from ford or another shop) ------------------ "THE STREETS WILL FLOW WITH THE OIL OF THE NON-BELIEVERS" Drax240z 1972 240z - L28TURBO transplant on the way! http://members.xoom.com/r_lewis/datsun.html

I was just looking through some links that were posted here, and I came across this. Its off a Ford Powerstroke diesel. Stats are: -23 tubes, 1/2 inch by 2 inch. -39 inches wide, 18 inches tall, 2.5 inches thick overall (plus inlet & outlet). -The core measures 18" tall, 30" wide, 2" thick. -3 inch inlet and outlet Scottie, how does this compare to the NPR you are running? ------------------ "THE STREETS WILL FLOW WITH THE OIL OF THE NON-BELIEVERS" Drax240z 1972 240z - L28TURBO transplant on the way! http://members.xoom.com/r_lewis/datsun.html

Another thought on using an IRS in racing. (I mean road/track, not oval, not drag) To get the highest speed through a corner you are obviously trying to reduce the radius as much as possible by following the "line". This often involves cutting it so that your car is riding on the.. Words failing... The red/white turn in/braking markers at the edge of the road. These are usually raised. (watch british super touring sometime, you'll see what I mean!) Without an IRS in this situation I would expect once you hit the raised portion of the road at speed, control would be a huge issue. Back to the real world... I prefer the IRS personally, but I'm not worried about breaking it. (I'm going to be well under 500hp) If I was building a car that was intended to be a drag racer first off, I'd probably put in a solid axle. For a street driven vehicle that will see high G's in turns and rough terrain (most roads) I'd stick with the IRS. ------------------ "THE STREETS WILL FLOW WITH THE OIL OF THE NON-BELIEVERS" Drax240z 1972 240z - L28TURBO transplant on the way! http://members.xoom.com/r_lewis/datsun.html

I've heard really good things about this engine also... From what I've heard its expected to become a staple for hod rodder once its a little more widely available... Dual OHC, undersquare? (Bore>Stroke), and nearly a 7000rpm redline... Sounds PERFECT for a small sports car like the Z if you ask me. The only drawback on it may be price... ------------------ "THE STREETS WILL FLOW WITH THE OIL OF THE NON-BELIEVERS" Drax240z 1972 240z - L28TURBO transplant on the way! http://members.xoom.com/r_lewis/datsun.html

Hey Brian. Not sure if you are looking for a running car or a shell. If you do plan to do the chevy swap a shell would probably be easier, though with a running car you may get enough $$$ from selling the engine/tranny to pay for a bit of extra cost. If I were in your shoes, what I'd be looking for is rust. Or more accurately, no rust! Check the frame rails, floorboards, inner fenders, under the hatch, etc. I wouldn't worry as much about body rust, since all but the rear of the car can be swapped with good quality parts. Also please consider that you are putting in at least 80% more power than this car was designed to handle. Plan to upgrade susupension/brakes and chassis accordingly. As far as the year and model, it depends what you want out of it. The 70-73's are a good bit lighter than the 74s, and a lot lighter than the 75-78's. BUT, the 75-78's are probably better suited to handle the power increase in the stock form. (ie: less money spent on upgrading chassis etc) Be sure that you want either a 2 seater or a 2+2, decide before you look, and stick to it. Can't think of much else really. Let us know what you see. ------------------ "THE STREETS WILL FLOW WITH THE OIL OF THE NON-BELIEVERS" Drax240z 1972 240z - L28TURBO transplant on the way! http://members.xoom.com/r_lewis/datsun.html

Hey Brian. Not sure if you are looking for a running car or a shell. If you do plan to do the chevy swap a shell would probably be easier, though with a running car you may get enough $$$ from selling the engine/tranny to pay for a bit of extra cost. If I were in your shoes, what I'd be looking for is rust. Or more accurately, no rust! Check the frame rails, floorboards, inner fenders, under the hatch, etc. I wouldn't worry as much about body rust, since all but the rear of the car can be swapped with good quality parts. Also please consider that you are putting in at least 80% more power than this car was designed to handle. Plan to upgrade susupension/brakes and chassis accordingly. As far as the year and model, it depends what you want out of it. The 70-73's are a good bit lighter than the 74s, and a lot lighter than the 75-78's. BUT, the 75-78's are probably better suited to handle the power increase in the stock form. (ie: less money spent on upgrading chassis etc) Be sure that you want either a 2 seater or a 2+2, decide before you look, and stick to it. Can't think of much else really. Let us know what you see. ------------------ "THE STREETS WILL FLOW WITH THE OIL OF THE NON-BELIEVERS" Drax240z 1972 240z - L28TURBO transplant on the way! http://members.xoom.com/r_lewis/datsun.html

Hey Brian. Not sure if you are looking for a running car or a shell. If you do plan to do the chevy swap a shell would probably be easier, though with a running car you may get enough $$$ from selling the engine/tranny to pay for a bit of extra cost. If I were in your shoes, what I'd be looking for is rust. Or more accurately, no rust! Check the frame rails, floorboards, inner fenders, under the hatch, etc. I wouldn't worry as much about body rust, since all but the rear of the car can be swapped with good quality parts. Also please consider that you are putting in at least 80% more power than this car was designed to handle. Plan to upgrade susupension/brakes and chassis accordingly. As far as the year and model, it depends what you want out of it. The 70-73's are a good bit lighter than the 74s, and a lot lighter than the 75-78's. BUT, the 75-78's are probably better suited to handle the power increase in the stock form. (ie: less money spent on upgrading chassis etc) Be sure that you want either a 2 seater or a 2+2, decide before you look, and stick to it. Can't think of much else really. Let us know what you see. ------------------ "THE STREETS WILL FLOW WITH THE OIL OF THE NON-BELIEVERS" Drax240z 1972 240z - L28TURBO transplant on the way! http://members.xoom.com/r_lewis/datsun.html

If you could get them to fit under 15" rims I'd be very interested... ------------------ "THE STREETS WILL FLOW WITH THE OIL OF THE NON-BELIEVERS" Drax240z 1972 240z - L28TURBO transplant on the way! http://members.xoom.com/r_lewis/datsun.html

I checked out the POR-15 website today www.por15.com and found that they have a lot more products that look interesting! Especially their high heat manifold paint. (POR-20) They say its good to 1400F... Seems to me that my turbo engine is going to be hot... IIRC up to about 1550F exhaust temperatures. What I am wondering is if the surface temp of my cast manifold will exceed 1400F with an internal temp assumed to be 1550F. Also happily, I found out that they have a gas tank treatment kit. (for sealing) Seems to me to be a good deal when compared to $200+ for a professional job... Comments? ------------------ "THE STREETS WILL FLOW WITH THE OIL OF THE NON-BELIEVERS" Drax240z 1972 240z - L28TURBO transplant on the way! http://members.xoom.com/r_lewis/datsun.html

I'd put a lot of money on the fact its a 240z!! I recognised it in an instant... its Scottie-GNZ's car. ------------------ "THE STREETS WILL FLOW WITH THE OIL OF THE NON-BELIEVERS" Drax240z 1972 240z - L28TURBO transplant on the way! http://members.xoom.com/r_lewis/datsun.html

Good call Morgan. Anyway, sorry to hear the plugs didn't help, but at least you can rule them out as a problem now. Did you check the resistance in your spark plug leads? Since 2,4,5 aren't making a difference when you pull the leads off either: A) Those 3 leads are shot or those 3 cylinders aren't getting fuel correctly. Test the leads with an ohm meter. If they check out ok, try removing the electrical connection to the fuel injectors (2,4,5) one at a time and see if THAT makes any difference in how it runs. If no difference, you'll need to pick up some new injectors. (or used ones in good shape) You might also want to run a bottle of injector cleaner through your system. Keep at it and let us know if it works for you! ------------------ "THE STREETS WILL FLOW WITH THE OIL OF THE NON-BELIEVERS" Drax240z 1972 240z - L28TURBO transplant on the way! http://members.xoom.com/r_lewis/datsun.html

Seems he is using a vinyl self adhesive stuff... he is quite adamant about how high quality his product is as well... All for $65. Going to check into it furthur. Drax240z [This message has been edited by Drax240z (edited October 13, 2000).]

Hey Jim, just wondering if you've ever had any pictures done of this SubtleZ hood... And your tech article too. I wanna see! ------------------ "THE STREETS WILL FLOW WITH THE OIL OF THE NON-BELIEVERS" Drax240z 1972 240z - L28TURBO transplant on the way! http://members.xoom.com/r_lewis/datsun.html

Just a few questions for those of you well versed in bodywork. I'm not looking for a perfect $5000 paint job here, just a refresher for now. 1) Should I strip down to bare metal, or is it acceptable to paint over old paint? (with sanding of course) 2) If I strip, what chemical strippers work for things like undercoating? (inner fenders) 3) Once down to bare metal, how long until I need to prime/paint? (to avoid surface rust) Thanks. ------------------ "THE STREETS WILL FLOW WITH THE OIL OF THE NON-BELIEVERS" Drax240z 1972 240z - L28TURBO transplant on the way! http://members.xoom.com/r_lewis/datsun.html

Ok, bud do yourself a favor before you try to figure out everything else. Go buy yourself 6 NGK sparkplugs, the ones meant for that engine. Gap them all to around .035-.045" and start it up. Then see if you have the same problems. This will only cost you a few bucks and it sounds like you need them anyway. As far as 7psi boost goes, that is right were it should be I think. From what you described there I don't see a problem... but maybe I am misunderstanding. The one other thing to do is to check your spark plug wires for resistance. They should all be similar. (long ones will have a higher resistance) If any are suspect, change them all. Also go through your ignition system (coil, cap, wires) and make sure all the connection are perfectly fit and tight. It sounds to me that you have some ignition gremlins, but hopefully this should work them out. Keep us posted. ------------------ "THE STREETS WILL FLOW WITH THE OIL OF THE NON-BELIEVERS" Drax240z 1972 240z - L28TURBO transplant on the way! http://members.xoom.com/r_lewis/datsun.html

Clint I missed their MR2 project, they used the SDS? If you could pass on issue info for that article I'd appreciate it, I'd like to read it. ------------------ "THE STREETS WILL FLOW WITH THE OIL OF THE NON-BELIEVERS" Drax240z 1972 240z - L28TURBO transplant on the way! http://members.xoom.com/r_lewis/datsun.html

I've read that article twice now... I think I've got a handle on most of it. I figured even if I am going with the easier and simpler SDS a little more knowledge couldn't hurt. The Tech II seems like a truly awesome system if you are looking for the ultimate in programable EFI... I'm interested to see their dyno results... They've managed to get their subaru impreza 2.5RS to spin all 4 wheels on shifts... scary scary. ------------------ "THE STREETS WILL FLOW WITH THE OIL OF THE NON-BELIEVERS" Drax240z 1972 240z - L28TURBO transplant on the way! http://members.xoom.com/r_lewis/datsun.html

Hey Morgan. I purchased 1983 toyota 4x4 calipers for my last Z and they bolted right on. Casting number on them was S12 if I remember correctly. I believe the wider calipers come off a 1988 V6 4x4, and have the casting number S12W. Quite a few people here have expressed their like for KVR pads, which is what I am going with next. I think they offer the 83 toyota ones too... Good luck. ------------------ "THE STREETS WILL FLOW WITH THE OIL OF THE NON-BELIEVERS" Drax240z 1972 240z - L28TURBO transplant on the way! http://members.xoom.com/r_lewis/datsun.html

I believe it was a british magazine that I read that in, autoworld maybe? Can't recall for sure. I really hope nissan sticks with the I6 in a few of thier cars! ------------------ "THE STREETS WILL FLOW WITH THE OIL OF THE NON-BELIEVERS" Drax240z 1972 240z - L28TURBO transplant on the way! http://members.xoom.com/r_lewis/datsun.html

Oh don't I wish!!!! I've heard stories (and they might be just that) about 1100hp out of the stock bottom end of this engine. Scary. I can't believe they have decided to go with a V8 in the next skyline. ------------------ "THE STREETS WILL FLOW WITH THE OIL OF THE NON-BELIEVERS" Drax240z 1972 240z - L28TURBO transplant on the way! http://members.xoom.com/r_lewis/datsun.html

A little more info about TIG. I had a unique work experience, in that part of my duties at my last job included welding... even though I am not ticketed. I welded every single day in the 16 months I worked for the company, sometimes for minutes a day, sometimes for 6 or 8 hours a day. I TIG welded for about 12 months of this time... Maybe I am a slow learner, but I picked up stick and MIG quickly enough, but it took me quite a while to get good at TIG. (By good I mean that I would be willing to weld $5000 of Titanium together) My partner in crime there had been TIG welding for 3.5 years to achieve bicycle frame quality welds... (PERFECT) I'd love a TIG, and I don't want to talk anyone out of it, because honestly its one of the greatest pieces of equipment I've ever used. (A lincoln squarewave 255 IIRC) But be forwarned that its not something that you will necessarily pick up in an afternoon or as you use it, like MIG... I was TIG welding scrap stainless steel for about a month before I'd move on to any of the heat exchangers or other big money items we were building. ------------------ "THE STREETS WILL FLOW WITH THE OIL OF THE NON-BELIEVERS" Drax240z 1972 240z - L28TURBO transplant on the way! http://members.xoom.com/r_lewis/datsun.html

Well you last statement Donna is certainly true. FYI, a high voltage spark (20,000-60,000 volts) is put out by your coil, and this high voltage surge is enough to bridge the air gap between electrodes on your plugs, and ignite the fuel mixture. If you want to see this phenominon safely in action, disconnect your coil lead at your distributor and hold it 2mm or so away from a grounded metal object. (not something you are holding onto, its quite the shock) Get a friend to try to start the car (it won't start, no spark to the cylinders because you've disconnected the lead) and watch the little spark "arc" across the air gap. Its pretty neat the first time you see it. If you get really cocky, you can ask your friends to hold on to the metal end as you turn it over. Just make sure they have a good heart. My uncle did that to me when I was about 10... I should have known better. Welcome to the board! ------------------ "THE STREETS WILL FLOW WITH THE OIL OF THE NON-BELIEVERS" Drax240z 1972 240z - L28TURBO transplant on the way! http://members.xoom.com/r_lewis/datsun.html

Ross I think you are probably correct in assuming that the castor is causing your problem, just to be sure though, have you checked your front and rear toe in? Toe out up front will cause you the same type of problem... toe out in the rear is just dangerous! I'm pretty sure you've checked, but hey, sometimes we miss the obvious. ------------------ "THE STREETS WILL FLOW WITH THE OIL OF THE NON-BELIEVERS" Drax240z 1972 240z - L28TURBO transplant on the way! http://members.xoom.com/r_lewis/datsun.html

Hey Ron, think you could cc me those pics too? I'd like to see. ------------------ "THE STREETS WILL FLOW WITH THE OIL OF THE NON-BELIEVERS" Drax240z 1972 240z - L28TURBO transplant on the way! http://members.xoom.com/r_lewis/datsun.html