5 Star Rising

I have been scared to push it back in because I think its away from the threads in the block and only stuck in the cover but may have to try that. I feel like it could break at any moment. I'm so close haha.. It may be the original water pump, says ASUGI or something like that on it. It wasn't leaking but figured since I have the motor out it might be a good idea to change it, what a brave and dumb soul I am for attempting this. I hear alot of broken bolt stories about this. Well just got home from work, I'm going to have another go at it.

Right, I have been looking at the high capacity pumps 70 gph but 3-7psi. Someone had mentioned there is a blue taped up wire in the 240z harness in the rear that was not used. I was curious if that was on a series 1 car also, or just the latter cars. I know the 73 240z uses a "pusher" electric pump in the rear in conjunction with the mechanical pump up front so that one definitely has the wire in the rear.

I wouldn't say it turns easily but it does turn all the way around. I saw some pictures online of the other side of that cover because I couldn't remember what it looked like. Looks like it just goes through that deep channel hole in the cover and then into the block. It's like its stuck in the cover. I'm pretty sure it's out of the block threads because if you compare the length of the other large bolt that did come out, it unscrews from the block at a certain point and the bolt that is stuck seems to be about 1/4" farther out than that point assuming they are the same length bolts.

Do you know if a series 1 car has a fuel pump wire in the rear harness?

Have my motor out of my early 71 240z. Wanted to change the water pump and like always running into some kind road block. This time it's the bottom water pump bolt .All the other bolts came out except for this stubborn bastard. After breaking countless bolts on this car in different parts like panels you get the feel for when a bolt is going to break. I immediately stopped and tried a few things like heating the bolt up carefully with a torch because it's a super long bolt that disappears into the aluminum timing cover and goes into the block and penetrating oil was not going to reach that far. After heating the bolt and slowly turning it the bolt is miraculously almost out but I started celebrating too soon. The bolt will not come all the way out. I cut off the water pump tab with a die grinder and got it out of the way, been loading it down with WD40 and even Marvel mystery oil, tried prying it out with a claw hammer, a flat pry bar, used visegrips on the bolt and tried tapping the vise grips outward and this sucker is stuck, it will how ever spin around but there is tension on it. Speaking of tension does this bolt go through the timing chain tensioner? What the hell is keeping it from coming out? Now the bolt is a little bent and starting to get chowed up from me putting vise grips on it and messing with it. What do you guys think is keeping the bolt from coming out and what do you recommend I do? Really dont want to pull the timing cover if I dont have to and brake the oil pan seal and above head gasket seal. I gave up tonight, soaked it with more Marvel mystery oil. Maybe tomorrow will be a better day..This sucks.

Upgrading the 71 Series 1 240Z to triple DCOE 40 Italian Webers. My car is pretty much stock. What is a must as far as parts/mods needed to run this set up? I'm new to these carbs and the set I have is used and I dont know their history other than they look to be in good shape from the outside lol. Came with a Cannon Intake. Will I need a mandatory electric fuel pump, pump relays, oil pressure switches, fuel pressure regulator? I read some posts here but everyone had a different car, some with pusher electric pumps at tank ect. Would like to keep it as clean and stock looking as possible as far as added wiring, switches and all that. Also I read somewhere that there is different ways to route the fuel to your carbs. Would love some advice on this upgrade. Hope to have this build done in a few months after a long 5 year restoration. Thanks in advance..

205/70 14?

Thanks they have a date stamped on the back 1976. So maybe stick with the factory size 195/70 14? Found these Vitour Galaxy performance 91H tires with white letters anyone ever run this brand? https://www.performanceplustire.com/tires-for-sale/vitour-tires/galaxy-r1-5/ty:Tire:ts:195-70-14/

Just picked these old school wheels up they are 14x6 and have a zero offset. I did a little photoshopping with the wheels on a car similar to mine lol.. I need a tire that will last, good for sticking to road when driving curvy roads at higher speeds and Is somewhat comfortable for long drives. I like the old school look with alot of rubber filling the wheel well but also don't want to get a tire that is too wide or tall that rubs when turning. Definitely going to get white letter tires or use a paint pen if I have to I guess. Now that I have the wheel sizes. What do you guys think for a tire? 225/60 14 too big?

That's a pretty awesome tool, been a member on this site since 2006 not to mention working on tons of cars of all makes and never seen that. Thanks. As far as an objective on this 240, I want to fill the wheel well with the largest performance tire that wont rub with my set up. Being able to raise or lower with the coilovers is nice but finding the right combination is what I'm looking for. I also have a painted fiberglass front valance that I dont want to scrape on the ground so slamming the car is not really what I want to do.

In this photo #1 is the stock 195/70 14 #2 is 225/60 14. Dont know if #2 tire being too wide would rub.

Toyo proxes look good. However when comparing the height of the 50 series tire you suggested, it looks like it's almost 2 full inches shorter than the factory 195/70 14 tire. (#1) 195/70 14 stock vs (#2) 225/50 14 in picture. A 225/60 14 is taller.

I'm not sure what the width is of those old slotted mags. I just finished painting my car in the garage and haven't really measured the width but they are pretty standard old school mags they dont stick out of the well much and actually fit rather nice. Yes I'm aware of the stickers but rather go with raised letters as the stickers come off and white letter pen ink wears out. Not going to roll the fenders on the series 1. I was thinking about trying 225/60/14s but not sure if they will rub.. I'm guessing they are 6-7" wheels but I will find out. As far as performance , I mean somewhere in the middle. I'm running triple webbers, lightened flywheel, 5 speed, semi racing clutch, coil overs, headers and performance exhaust. Those are basically my mods nothing too crazy but would be nice to have some performance tires that are good cruisers as well.

I have a early 71 240z. Looking to use the old slotted mags that I have but get some nice looking/fitting tires. I want to go with the white letter vintage look tires also. I have coilovers on the car and was maybe trying to fit the largest tire to fill the wheel well gaps with out them rubbing. Looking for some recommendations on sizes and maybe a certain tire to go with. Thank you.

With rust repairs, body work and paint jobs now exceeding $20k+ these days I decided to restore my early 71 240z my self. It has been a long 5 YEARS!. But I'm finally at the painting stage and doing my first ever paint job at my house and as expected, im running into issues. Welded in new dog panels and did all the body work and primer myself, blocksanded everything straight, glass out, interior is newly painted and cleared along with the engine compartment. Just painted all my panels front and back but I still need to paint the actual car ( roof, quarters and rear). Everything looks great from 3 feet away but the unforeseen problem is that my paint has went bad and my gun has sprayed out tiny pieces of dry paint all over my panels, rather than stopping I decided to keep spraying everything due to a small window I had off work to do this... Then I googled what to do about nibs and found it was better to try to bury everything in clear so I sprayed about 2-3 coats of clear on everything and you can still see and feel the tiny rock like bumps all over. What happened is I opened up the paint back in May to spray the engine compartment and interior and 5 months later used the rest of the paint to paint my panels now it's bad, I have new paint coming from the same supplier which they still charged me for (but I'm working on getting it refunded). Anyway the new paint should be here in a few days to spray the rest of the car I'm starting to rush this alittle because here on the north coast the rain is already coming and temperatures are dropping into the upper 40s and 50s and my window for painting 70+ degrees is closing. My question is, what the hell should I do about my panels? Haha.. Sand them down smooth and reshoot clear? Sand them down to basecoat and reshoot basecoat? Try to sand and polish them. If I sand the new dried clear coat smooth and reclear over the top of it will it leave cloudy sanding scuffs that will show through the new clear? I should also mention I have a few black beard hairs that landed on the first coat of clear and can be seen though the bright white paint. Can I dig those out? Maybe take a tooth pick with basecoat om it and put it over the hair then reclear? Sand it all down to primer and start over with new paint? The nibs are the same color as the paint aside from a few hairs and a bug or 2. I realize maybe I should have stopped, but this is the situation I'm currently in and any paint advice would be appreciated. Btw the panels actually look really good as far as the bright white color and like I said from 3 feet away it looks awesome but these little nibs might drive me crazy later.

I will check. I have a 240z with short 240z collar now. I think the 280s were longer like the zx so maybe that's why you didnt have to change yours.

Here is a few pics of the clutch components compared..

Have a early 71 240z with a 5 speed 280z transmission. It has all the 240z components inside including the original 240z flywheel, pressure plate, 240z collar, adjustable slave cylinder and 225mm clutch disc. I am upgrading the clutch set up and have purchased a new lightweight Fidanza flywheel, and new 240mm Exedy stage one racing clutch kit that fits a ZX or 280z 2+2. The Fidanza flywheel wheel work with either a 225mm or 240mm clutch. Does anybody know which collar I will need for this particular set up? I would think to just buy the collar that goes with the pressure plate of a ZX or 280z 2+2 but with the Fidanza flywheel being able to fit both a 225mm or 240mm disc I'm not sure if its thinner than stock or something and may require a different collar. Think there is also a turbo ZX collar that is smaller, just want to get it set up right the first time and not have to pull the tranny out again later to change collars. Anyone have this set up and dealt with this issue before?

Hello all. So I have my early 71 240z that I have been working off and on for like 5 years and I had set a goal to have it done by this summer but I have a bunch of variables in my situation. The goal is to take this car to a professional paint shop and have them use their paint booth, professional spray guns, and experience to paint my car as I have never painted a car before and want this one done the right way. Shop time and labor cost is an issue, I want to be able to do as much as possible at home and bring them the car to paint. As stated I have a bunch of variables and I dont want to apply the wrong primers in the wrong orders and mess stuff up and cause problems under the paint later. I have done all the rust repairs already and have sprayed epoxy primer on those bare metal locations. A body repair technician did a side job on my Hood, Doors and Fenders and they came back straight and primered but I'm not sure what primer he used on them. Meanwhile I have the rest of the shell at home in which it still has decent silver paint on it from the last paint job it had from PO, the car was originally blue, I also believe there is some filler under that silver paint but it's all pretty straight and I dont see any cracking. I was going to start sanding it down abit with my DA. I have the hatch that I sprayed with epoxy primer, did some minor body work and then sprayed it with high build polyester primer but have not sanded yet, I also sprayed that high build primer under the hood as the body tech didnt bother the primer that side of the hood which I would like painted. I will be painting the car Safari Gold and have a black fiberglass BRE spoiler that I want the same color as the car and also a maroon color painted fiberglass front valance that I would also like painted the same color as the car.. The engine is out of the car and I have the engine compartment prepped for paint as well. With the shell still having old paint, some parts like dog legs epoxy primered, hood, fenders doors primered as a set with a unknown primer, hatch with high build, fiberglass pieces needing to be prepped, engine compartment sanded down to original blue paint. My question is what products should I use in the situation I'm in and what order do I apply them and how? I thought about sanding down the shell and fiber glass pieces and spraying everything with the half gallon of Polyester High build that I have left and have the shop put color on that, but then i read that you need a sealer and to break down epoxy primer and spray that on right before paint as a sealer. I need to know what products to buy and what order to apply them. I apologize if this post is all over the place but that's how I feel my car is right now haha. Just want to do it right. I built a cool enclosed canopy inside my garage so I could sand and spray primers and not get shit everywhere. I need help with a game plan on how to proceed with this car, I have the drive to do it and can afford the right products just don't have the knowledge on this type of work. Thanks for some info in advance...

Its 8 7/8" across, converted it is 225mm. Thanks

So measure the outside diameter of the disk with a tape measure and convert to MM? When finding a clutch I know I would like a stage 1. How ever there are a ton out there, all different brands and they seem to have different variables about each of them, some heavy duty with different weight pressures ect. Anyone have any particular recommendations on a clutch. I'm assuming I have a 280z gear box with 24 spline.

Thank you, I will order a clutch for a 280z. Not too worried about the gearing, seems to be fine and I'm not racing the car.

Hey all. I have a early 71 240z with a 5 speed transmission. I just pulled the engine and transmission out today for the first time since I have owned the car. I want to go through the motor and trans and put a new clutch in it. I have no idea what transmission the PO put in this car. Also I want to order the correct stage 1 clutch kit for the set up I have. Here's a few pics of the transmission , hope there is any way to tell what it is 280z? ZX? Also any recommendations on a good clutch? Thanks

Update: so I got the car running on its own for the first time in 20 years!! At first I plugged all the vacuum hoses which I'm sure helped a little but the car would still not start, it would do the same thing... try to start but never catch. I had adjusted the choke cable before and the choke levers would move a little when pulling the choke cable as far back as possible but the car would still not start. So I got a crazy idea to choke them myself. I put autobody masking tape over both carbs completely and when trying to start, it acted different but still would not start...Then I poked a small hole in each piece of tape on each carb and low and behold she started, it ran rough but it was enough to warm up the car. Then I was able to adjust and balance the carbs with my Air Flow meter. Now it starts every time, but then again I haven't tried to start it when it's cold again yet. But some huge progress was made....There was fiery embers flying out of the engine from all the tree leafs, pine needles and spider webs that had some how got in the motor from sitting 20 years.. I let it burn out the best I could with a garden hose near by just incase.. Tomorrow I will pressure wash the motor again to hopefully get all that debri out. It definitely has a exhaust leak at the manifold and also a coolant leak under the intake somewhere. But SHE RUNS!! , Revs up then idles. Thanks for the input

Thanks, I found that post, but it doesnt seem to go into detail about the carbs that much. More about restoring a 73 back to stock. I'm going to try to plug any vacuum leaks I have. The car also has a loud exhaust leak at the manifold, wonder if I have a bad leak on the intake as well possibly causing a big vacuum leak. Wish I could get this thing running long enough to diagnose what the heck is going on without pulling the motor apart first.