RACERZ

What class are you building for? This will dictate what level of prep. That seam welding will be also illegal for some classes. That being said a good idea would be to contact you local region of SCCA and get one of the tech inspectors involved they will be a good source for what you can and cannot do also they will be the the one to issue you a log book for the car, which is required to race, it will save you a lot of pain and possiblely rewelding/cutting out parts. I have heard some horror stories from people who build a cage to find out they would need to redo most of it in order to be "legal" to race. Another source to race is NASA though I am not sure what classes they have for the Z though.

We have Doug Piners old EP car we have zx lightened rotors with wilwood dynalite singles, we are looking to upgrade to the Sierra rears (you have to turn down the stubs to fit the hats) but they will be about 2 lbs lighter then the lightened zxs. Greg runs the dynalite duals about 1 lb more for the caliper, but pads last longer (larger pads), both will work well we have had no probles with fade and pads are good for 5-6 races I belive Greg runs hawke pads we run the performance friction. You will have to fabricate a mount no one makes one to fit the calipers, but its not a big deal to modify an existing mount to work.

I was trying to look up some allum. hubs for the race car and when I tried to log into modern motorsports page it does not work when I went to another source are same deal. Whats up? How do I access them, or are they gone? Is there a new page? I hope they are not gone I dont know anyone else who make the spicality parts they do.

I am still intrested for cash$$$ I found another racer who is intrested in our glass anyway. We are intresed in the fenders and airdam dont need hood or rear deck if it makes any difference, but would be willing to buy any/all of it you are selling the whole body. I dont mind if its not perfect since it would be monuted on the racecar with desuz fastners anyway and would need to be trimmed to fit.

Thanks!

We are in the process of having an adaptor ring made so we can use the newer 115mm rings on the older 110 LSD unit. Has anyone tried this befor and have there been any problems? Our machinest does not think so. The only mod will be to cut a notch in the 115 ring gear to fit it to the adaptor ring. If so it will cost us about $50. If no problems I will let anyone intrested know how it works out you shoud be able to have any machine shop copy it. I am worried it sounds like a way to easy fix for little money.

Also very intrested we have the subtle Z kit on our race car and were tinking of changing bodies. Might be intrested in a trade?

Per NISMO cat W/R OD trany 32010-N3130 1=2.906 2= 1.902 3= 1.308 4= 1.0 5=0.864 C/R OD trany 32010-N3030 1=3.321 2= 2.077 3= 1.308 4= 1.0 5=0.864 All others are 5=1.0 also the "racing boxes" have a diff shift pattern 1st is toward you and down, reverse is toward you and up in the normal 1st position, syncros are stright cut which aids in speed shifting,the bearings are beefier, both systems use the servo (steel type) syncros.

Nismo boxes are strong were used on the IMSA (400+) racers but! no longer produced so if you brake it or it needs work no joy on parts also check which option 1,2 3 all were stacked diff. I dont have my old nismo cat handy to tell you which but I WOULD HAVE SOMONE IN THE KNOW TO CHECK IT OUT TO SEE IF ITS IN GOOD SHAPE IF THE SYNCROS ARE GOING YOU WILL NOT HAVE ANY LUCK FINDING A REPLACEMENT. Most of them had a 1-1 5th ratio not over drive so wont be useful on the street.

We have run both 3.9 and 4.11 in our street Z with ZX 5 box and found for every day driving 4.1 a little to tall esp if doing any hwy driving, if you are using it for performance/autox then the 4.1 is the ticket, also if you have a performance cam/carb system then the 4.1 is better, The 3.9 works better with the stock cam/carb set up with respect to optimum power range. I also recomend to bump up your came timing with the 3.9 and advance timing slightly with the stock set up.

We have run both 3.9 and 4.11 in our street Z with ZX 5 box and found for every day driving 4.1 a little to tall esp if doing any hwy driving, if you are using it for performance/autox then the 4.1 is the ticket, also if you have a performance cam/carb system then the 4.1 is better, The 3.9 works better with the stock cam/carb set up with respect to optimum power range. I also recomend to bump up your came timing with the 3.9 and advance timing slightly with the stock set up.

We have run both 3.9 and 4.11 in our street Z with ZX 5 box and found for every day driving 4.1 a little to tall esp if doing any hwy driving, if you are using it for performance/autox then the 4.1 is the ticket, also if you have a performance cam/carb system then the 4.1 is better, The 3.9 works better with the stock cam/carb set up with respect to optimum power range. I also recomend to bump up your came timing with the 3.9 and advance timing slightly with the stock set up.

I was looking at a R180 LSD for sale on this forum and the seller is not sure if its a 110mm or 115mm unit, we use the 115 and am trying to build a 4.11 so we need a 115 unit. That benig said I was wondering short of pulling the unit out is there a way to tell if its a 110 ring vs 115. We thought would measuring the distance between 2 adjoing bolts might show a diffference? We measured one of our 115 lsds and a loose 115 ring gear and got about 2.05in center to center with the mic but we dont have a 110 unit to compare to see if there is a difference. We looked all over ours and did not see any numbers other then the ratio on the ring. Any ideas, its old enough to be either, and its in a K case not that its an absolute (one of ours is in the older non K case). If anyone knows the unit and can tell us anything about it we would appricate it. Thanks

As a new member who just joined I agree with those above we have gone both routs. Built an IT car then bought an EP prebilt car built car was much fasted and sorted. You can do what you want and build a car if you have access to a lot of tools and have a lot of friend in the fabrication/machinging world, and do it for a relatively low budget. It will take a lot of time though, the first thing will as stated above plan on what you want that will fit in your budget, then start crusing the net, the are a lot of good used parts out there for at least 1/2 of what it would cost to buy new. Secondly look for a parts/basket case race cars lot of good stuff, also dont forget that a lot of 510 stuff will fit the Z. I have seen a lot of people selling old 510 race cars less motors fairly cheaply You may be able to get parts off of them. As far as the diff if your are planning on running a near stock motor forget the R200 its very heavy and would be overkill, the R160s will work (we ran one for years in our 240 autocross car.) The are light and dependable, most importantly cheaper than R180s or 200s, also the Subaru R160s came with LSDS the old ones esp. are cheap I have seen then for as little as 100 used, so even if the broke you could afford to replace it cheaply, also this allows for a grater selection of gear ratios,if not that then just run a welded R180 again lot to be had cheap and for a beginner locked vs LSD wont be a big diff, for brakes either run the 280zx conversion or the Toyota fronts with zx or 240sx rears you can scrounge these from junk yards for little or no cost then get a good set of pad, if you can fab brackets and hardware and do you own welding you will be able to come close to your budget of 10K, that being said if you dont have access to inexpensive fabrications your cost will go out of sight quickly, even if you do find used parts cheaply. Also depending on what part of the county you are from will have an impact on your cost (west coast is a lot more expensive). Look at the racing forums there are a lot of good used racing parts there (NASA, SCCA , IT ,PRODracing, ect.)esp thing like seats insterments belts ect. Another cost is lighter bodywork nothing helps a race car mors then less weight so you will want to pull everything off you can get, so fiberglass body pannels plus lighter wheels will be a must depending on what direction you are planning on going (for IT the car must remain mostly stock). Also agree with those who stated building toward a set of rules you think you might like to race in the future, so you dont end up investing in say a set of trick shocks that you later find out are not legal for the class you want to run somtime in the future,that is where looking at the different orginazations and the rules for the cars will help you decide which direction to go. Good luck though love to see the old Zs out racing still.

Grettings I am new to the forum. We race with SCCA and have a EP 240Z. I have been looking into converting to a CV axle system and followed the progress of the discussion. I have several questions if anyone could help (sorry if any of them are reduntent). I was wondering if this application being dicussed is for the R180 or R200 diffs, we have to run the R180s and wondered if since the R180 is slightly narrower would there be less problems with shaft clearence or has anyone looked at the specs for the R180 diff vs R200? Secondly has anyone compared the weight difference in the two systems since that is our main concern in converting (stock shaft hold up fine,just heavy). Next we run a much lower setting on the race car vs street cars so the shaft angles will be different, has anyone checked binding at extreme angles (stock shafts are designed to be near vertical under full compression vs on our car they tend to start neutral and go positive during hard cornering)? I have looked at several existing systems out there, and was told by other racers that they tend to blow up under racing conditions, I was not clear if the problems were due to binding vs stress loading during cornering? anyone heard about similar problems? Thanks for any info.